Glide pro motor mount failure
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 2,419
From: USA
It looks like it might be two different types of failure, but I'm not certain of that.
It looks like there's some solvent or oil damage in a few spots. But I'm far from sure of that.
It also looks like rather classic tearing damage, coming from over moving an overly hard plastic. The Volvo car world is full of this from people buying into the hype of urethane motor mounts and such. Yes, they're stiffer, they also rip apart faster because of that increased stiffness. Same the urethane suspension mounts. They just can't take the amount of motion involved in the application.
It looks like there's some solvent or oil damage in a few spots. But I'm far from sure of that.
It also looks like rather classic tearing damage, coming from over moving an overly hard plastic. The Volvo car world is full of this from people buying into the hype of urethane motor mounts and such. Yes, they're stiffer, they also rip apart faster because of that increased stiffness. Same the urethane suspension mounts. They just can't take the amount of motion involved in the application.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,936
Likes: 310
From: coastal sc
It looks like it might be two different types of failure, but I'm not certain of that.
It looks like there's some solvent or oil damage in a few spots. But I'm far from sure of that.
It also looks like rather classic tearing damage, coming from over moving an overly hard plastic. The Volvo car world is full of this from people buying into the hype of urethane motor mounts and such. Yes, they're stiffer, they also rip apart faster because of that increased stiffness. Same the urethane suspension mounts. They just can't take the amount of motion involved in the application.
It looks like there's some solvent or oil damage in a few spots. But I'm far from sure of that.
It also looks like rather classic tearing damage, coming from over moving an overly hard plastic. The Volvo car world is full of this from people buying into the hype of urethane motor mounts and such. Yes, they're stiffer, they also rip apart faster because of that increased stiffness. Same the urethane suspension mounts. They just can't take the amount of motion involved in the application.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 2,419
From: USA
S100 shouldn't damage a polyurethane motor mount, and if it did, you would see it attack the outer surfaces first, which this broken up mount doesn't seem to show.
So I rather suspect a poor casting by the manufacturer. A bad mix? Bad ingredients? Low curing temperature? Etc. Any could do this, and more. Leaving you a part that isn't solidified or cured, but could still be skinned on the surface.
If they want to call it a "normal failure" for a urethane part, ok. Maybe it is normal to them. Personally, I wouldn't buy another because that isn't a normal or acceptable failure to me.
So I rather suspect a poor casting by the manufacturer. A bad mix? Bad ingredients? Low curing temperature? Etc. Any could do this, and more. Leaving you a part that isn't solidified or cured, but could still be skinned on the surface.
If they want to call it a "normal failure" for a urethane part, ok. Maybe it is normal to them. Personally, I wouldn't buy another because that isn't a normal or acceptable failure to me.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,936
Likes: 310
From: coastal sc
S100 shouldn't damage a polyurethane motor mount, and if it did, you would see it attack the outer surfaces first, which this broken up mount doesn't seem to show.
So I rather suspect a poor casting by the manufacturer. A bad mix? Bad ingredients? Low curing temperature? Etc. Any could do this, and more. Leaving you a part that isn't solidified or cured, but could still be skinned on the surface.
If they want to call it a "normal failure" for a urethane part, ok. Maybe it is normal to them. Personally, I wouldn't buy another because that isn't a normal or acceptable failure to me.
So I rather suspect a poor casting by the manufacturer. A bad mix? Bad ingredients? Low curing temperature? Etc. Any could do this, and more. Leaving you a part that isn't solidified or cured, but could still be skinned on the surface.
If they want to call it a "normal failure" for a urethane part, ok. Maybe it is normal to them. Personally, I wouldn't buy another because that isn't a normal or acceptable failure to me.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,894
Likes: 8,002
From: poway
I've bought cast polyurethane from McMaster that has done the same thing.. The softer stuff seems to be more susceptible to decay like that than the hard stuff. I've had stuffing sitting in a plastic crate go bad.
As far as the shifting goes, it would not surprise me that the shift pedal is hitting the floor board due to the motor sitting lower in the frame from the bad mount. You may want go through and check spline fit on all the levers, tranny, inside arm and outside levers. The bolts may be tight but not enough to hold the levers/arms tight on the splines. Many here have had that issue.. I've seen the issue happen to people I ride with..
As far as the shifting goes, it would not surprise me that the shift pedal is hitting the floor board due to the motor sitting lower in the frame from the bad mount. You may want go through and check spline fit on all the levers, tranny, inside arm and outside levers. The bolts may be tight but not enough to hold the levers/arms tight on the splines. Many here have had that issue.. I've seen the issue happen to people I ride with..
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,936
Likes: 310
From: coastal sc
I've bought cast polyurethane from McMaster that has done the same thing.. The softer stuff seems to be more susceptible to decay like that than the hard stuff. I've had stuffing sitting in a plastic crate go bad.
As far as the shifting goes, it would not surprise me that the shift pedal is hitting the floor board due to the motor sitting lower in the frame from the bad mount. You may want go through and check spline fit on all the levers, tranny, inside arm and outside levers. The bolts may be tight but not enough to hold the levers/arms tight on the splines. Many here have had that issue.. I've seen the issue happen to people I ride with..
As far as the shifting goes, it would not surprise me that the shift pedal is hitting the floor board due to the motor sitting lower in the frame from the bad mount. You may want go through and check spline fit on all the levers, tranny, inside arm and outside levers. The bolts may be tight but not enough to hold the levers/arms tight on the splines. Many here have had that issue.. I've seen the issue happen to people I ride with..
Tension on transmission from lack of support. Bike hasn't shifted this crisp in years.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,894
Likes: 8,002
From: poway
I had checked all of that when I got back from a ride and kept missing 2nd. Nothing was making contact. Shifter was not loose. I was beginning to think I was going to open up transmission. The following week is when I found part of the mount laying on garage floor. I swapped out the mount, went for a ride it now shifts perfect nice and crisp. Tension on transmission from lack of support. Bike hasn't shifted this crisp in years.
Tension on transmission from lack of support. Bike hasn't shifted this crisp in years.So you jacked the back wheel up and ran it through the gears..
With a 2000 bagger, you got the last of the EVO trannies. The 2000 softails and 2001 baggers got the updated shift mechanism. That might be part of it.. With the correct mount, the tranny / motor vibrates more, bike less.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,191
Likes: 843
You remove them, This was my 2nd one that went bad. Never had any oil on it from oil changes because i run a remote filter, I stopped buying them,
Last edited by buell95; Sep 23, 2025 at 09:25 AM.