What RPMs?
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 783
From: France
Some of you are reving up their engines a lot for my point of vew.
For my part I usually rev mine between 2500 and 3000 rpm before shifting and I cruise at about 2500 rpm.
I have an Arlen Ness Big Sucker on my 2024 RKS and it is quite dry, no leak at all
For my part I usually rev mine between 2500 and 3000 rpm before shifting and I cruise at about 2500 rpm.
I have an Arlen Ness Big Sucker on my 2024 RKS and it is quite dry, no leak at all
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
What difference does it make to run at 3000 instead of 2500?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,456
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From: Oklahoma
RPM, by itself, is not the problem. If it were, the first traffic light you wait for, would destroy the engine. It is always RPM vs load. 2000 to 2500 rom on level ground, not accelerating is much like sitting at a traffic light at idle. There is relatively little combustion pressure to push past the rings. Opening the throttle changes the situation. More pressure is created, AND the time that pressure has to leak past the rings is long. Down shifting raises RPM and at the higher RPM, the same combustion pressure dissipates more quickly as the piston moves down, giving less time for the for blow by to happen.
The possibilities are: your friend is not downshifting when he should, he is filling the crank case full when he changes or maintains oil level, or he has enough ring wear that blow by is becoming a problem no matter how correct his techniques are. The first and cheapest thing to try is keeping the oil level half way between
ADD" and "FULL" . If the problem continues, evaluate his driving technique. If he is downshifting appropriately, the "band aid" for this is external venting. Ultimately, he might be a candidate for a top overhaul.
This same RPM vs load applies to lugging also. Around town, I cruise at 35 to 45 in the gear that provides about 2000 rpm. Everything is very smooth. If acceleration is needed, a downshift is mandatory because the smoothness goes away (lugging) when the throttle is opened, without the down shift.
The possibilities are: your friend is not downshifting when he should, he is filling the crank case full when he changes or maintains oil level, or he has enough ring wear that blow by is becoming a problem no matter how correct his techniques are. The first and cheapest thing to try is keeping the oil level half way between
ADD" and "FULL" . If the problem continues, evaluate his driving technique. If he is downshifting appropriately, the "band aid" for this is external venting. Ultimately, he might be a candidate for a top overhaul.
This same RPM vs load applies to lugging also. Around town, I cruise at 35 to 45 in the gear that provides about 2000 rpm. Everything is very smooth. If acceleration is needed, a downshift is mandatory because the smoothness goes away (lugging) when the throttle is opened, without the down shift.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 264
From: Fresno Ca
I have over 170,000 miles on mine and always cruise between 2000-2800. That has nothing to do with oil in the air filter. First, the filters you buy from Harley are not supposed to be oiled. I don't know about aftermarket. He probably keeps his crankcase oil level too high.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 438
Likes: 433
From: Iowa
[QUOTE=cncmike. [b]He probably keeps his crankcase oil level too high.[/b]
Mike makes a good point, especially if a stage kit has been added. Starting with a stage 1 kit gets you a higher flow breather, slip ons and a tune. Common side effect is a little oil seepage and or mist accumulating on motor just below breather. Lowering the crankcase oil level has proven to cut down on this issue. On my bike the manual calls for 4qts with a filter. If i run that much oil it makes a mess. Have read about this issue in past threads and lowering the crankcase level has been a very common improvement. I run 3 1/4 qt with a filter and am still on the cross hatches of the dip stick with only a light mist after several hundred miles. If I'm cruising interstate speeds 75+ for longer durations I will see more.
A lot of people also run an aftermarket filter element too which many are the oiled design so that could contribute to some of what your seeing
Mike makes a good point, especially if a stage kit has been added. Starting with a stage 1 kit gets you a higher flow breather, slip ons and a tune. Common side effect is a little oil seepage and or mist accumulating on motor just below breather. Lowering the crankcase oil level has proven to cut down on this issue. On my bike the manual calls for 4qts with a filter. If i run that much oil it makes a mess. Have read about this issue in past threads and lowering the crankcase level has been a very common improvement. I run 3 1/4 qt with a filter and am still on the cross hatches of the dip stick with only a light mist after several hundred miles. If I'm cruising interstate speeds 75+ for longer durations I will see more.
A lot of people also run an aftermarket filter element too which many are the oiled design so that could contribute to some of what your seeing
Thread Starter
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
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Grand HDF Member
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From: Southern Virginia
My 2010 96 was a stage one and I did notice a slight mist after I put a proper tune on it. When I bought the bike it had a canned stage one tune. No oil mist but it ran hot as a firecracker. After a good tune I did notice some oil mist from the AC but it wasn't terrible. I'd just take the air ceaner cover off and wipe it out once a month or so. I never ran the oil level low. That bike ran so hot even with an oil cooler on it I didn't want to chance it.
23 Ultra went from stock to stage one, then stage two with the high flow SE air filter that fits under the stock cover. Not running the oil level low and still don't notice any major oil buildup. I should mention that when I put the 447 cam in it I upgraded to the current SE billet cam plate and upgraded oil pump. I don't know if that would make any difference or not.
On a side note I have always thought from reading posts that some folks run these Harleys at much higher rpms than is necessary. One of the main reasons I switched to Harleys was I was tired of high revving engines. I added a tooth to the front sprocket and shaved eight teeth of the rear on my 76 FLH and it has tolerated that just fine for thirty years. Added a tooth to the front pulley of my 03 Wide Glide when I put the Baker six speed overdrive in it to replace the five speed and it likes it just fine. The 2010 Ultra was the first Harley I rode that I was happy with the gearing on. Never thought about changing it. Now on my 23 with the 114 a time or two I have looked for seventh gear and haven't found it. I guess because it has so much more low end grunt the bike sort of wants to shift earlier than the 2010.
Don't know if that is good information or not, but I thought I'd throw it out there.