Chrome Handlebar Control Install
Thread Starter
|
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,947
Likes: 5
From: Ontario, Canada
Chrome Handlebar Control Install
I've taken the right hand side apart and had a look. I've read the post on changing the throttle and switches. I'm pretty sure I can handle it. The one thing that I have questions on is the master cylinder. I have no experience with brakes or brake fluid. I don't know about bleeding or if I'll even have to. What's the best wy to remove the fluid from the old master cyclinger? If you are quick and keep the handle bar end up, shouldn't any air trapped when you refill just rise into the reservoir? I've got til Xmas to figure this out. Hope someone can give me the advise I need.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 3
From:
RE: Chrome Handlebar Control Install
If you are swapping out the master cyl, then you'll probably end up needing to bleed the system. It's not hard to do, so don't be intimidated by the procedure. It takes a little time, but once you learn how to do it, you'll be able to do any kind of future brake work. There are several ways to do it, but I usually always end up doing it the old fashioned way. Get a service manual and follow the instructions. You won't have any problems.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,545
Likes: 5
From: NEW LENOX, IL
RE: Chrome Handlebar Control Install
For the easiest and fastest way to bleed your brakes get a "MIGHTY VAC". It's a 1man job and they are usually available at Auto parts Store, Sears or at Harbor Freight.com 
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,183
Likes: 836
From: KMHT KFMY
RE: Chrome Handlebar Control Install
I second the Mighty Vac.
I have one, was worth the $.
Brake fluid ( and clutch if you are DOT Hydraulic operated) SHOULD BE CHANGED EVERY TWO YEARS !!!
it's a lot easier to do with that tool.
BTW DOT 3,4,and 5 fluid will remove paint faster than any commercial paint stripper
cover everything! have a hose ready in case of emergency.
Ask your rice bike friends if they have a MightyVac you can borrow. Most of us who work on our own rice bikes have one.
It might be time to upgrade your lines since you have to drain the system... kill 2 birds with one stone. You'd be surprised how much braided lines improve the stopping power, even with stock pads,
I have one, was worth the $.
Brake fluid ( and clutch if you are DOT Hydraulic operated) SHOULD BE CHANGED EVERY TWO YEARS !!!
it's a lot easier to do with that tool.
BTW DOT 3,4,and 5 fluid will remove paint faster than any commercial paint stripper
cover everything! have a hose ready in case of emergency.
Ask your rice bike friends if they have a MightyVac you can borrow. Most of us who work on our own rice bikes have one.
It might be time to upgrade your lines since you have to drain the system... kill 2 birds with one stone. You'd be surprised how much braided lines improve the stopping power, even with stock pads,
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 245
Likes: 3
From: austin, Texas
RE: Chrome Handlebar Control Install
Be sure you use the correct brake fluid. Early bikes used Dot5 which won't mar the paint. '05 models went to DOT4. These two won't mix like DOT3 and DOT4. If your system has DOT5, don't add DOT4 or DOT5.1.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,978
Likes: 34
From: Cedar Point, NC
RE: Chrome Handlebar Control Install
I did the swap myself...I did not have the MightyVac...
Not that tough, just take your time, and then bleed the brakes when your done. It took me about 15 minutes to bleed them properly...hold the brake, loosen the bleed nut, let the air out until fluid comes, tighten the valve, release the brake. Repeat until there is no air coming out when you first crack the valve.
I went left side, right side, left side, right side, and I was good. I thought the left side might have been further downstream than the right side, (looking at it with the naked eyeball) but I doubt this is true, and I don't think it really matters.
Mac
Not that tough, just take your time, and then bleed the brakes when your done. It took me about 15 minutes to bleed them properly...hold the brake, loosen the bleed nut, let the air out until fluid comes, tighten the valve, release the brake. Repeat until there is no air coming out when you first crack the valve.
I went left side, right side, left side, right side, and I was good. I thought the left side might have been further downstream than the right side, (looking at it with the naked eyeball) but I doubt this is true, and I don't think it really matters.
Mac
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
