New Ape Hanger need help pls
#12
#13
RE: New Ape Hanger need help pls
ORIGINAL: hdfat2001
If they're the Cyclesmith's it's +8". I have em on my classic and the measurments from Cyclesmith's worked perfect.
If they're the Cyclesmith's it's +8". I have em on my classic and the measurments from Cyclesmith's worked perfect.
HDFat...glad we could pop ur forum cherry on dis thread. Welcome 2 da jungle, baby~
#14
RE: New Ape Hanger need help pls
Nope, you can try and rattle me all you want. You ain't nothing but a fly spec. My advice was good, I don't see how you can say getting accurate measurements before hand as "Bad advice" You have your way, and I have mine. Mine was born out of trial and error and from having to help others fix their errors, I am only trying to be a help. While you just seem to want to start an argument. Well, go argue with you self, you may even win
#16
RE: New Ape Hanger need help pls
ORIGINAL: Chicago Spike
Nope, you can try and rattle me all you want. You ain't nothing but a fly spec.
Nope, you can try and rattle me all you want. You ain't nothing but a fly spec.
Ya see, I never said mine was the only way. U did...then waffled. That makes u a hypocrite.Sometimes the truth leaves a bitter taste....especially when its force-fed.
BTW, what kinda oil u running? What PSI u recommend for da front? Rear? Where in da world is da canooder valve?
#17
RE: New Ape Hanger need help pls
I didn't say my way was the only way. I said the only way to have it look good was to measure everything to get good results. Then you called that bad advice. You don't have to have apes in order to help out with making things look right. You started with the attitude, not me. If I offended you by insinuating that you are insignificant to me, I apologize. Just because we have different ways of getting the same results, doesn't make one way better than the other.
Kind of oil = ****&Nanners
Your front/rear tire = 12psi in nitrogen(liquid form if available )
C-valve = next to the headlight bearings
Kind of oil = ****&Nanners
Your front/rear tire = 12psi in nitrogen(liquid form if available )
C-valve = next to the headlight bearings
#18
RE: New Ape Hanger need help pls
Alright now I placed this post to get help with my problem Thank You to the ones that gave information and links, Now to the ones that get on forums to just FLAME other peoples posts i dont need ya go FLAME on other peoples thread postings.[:@]
Ok now back to the topic:: the bars are from Cyclesmith we contacted them and they advised +8 would work. Now can i get some links to good places to order these cables and hose. And I know I saw a thread on how to remove the lock and part of the fairing to remove the handlbars but i cant find it if some sees it send me the link pls.
Ride with Pride
Blue Knights (Texas) Ch. XVII
Tommy
Ok now back to the topic:: the bars are from Cyclesmith we contacted them and they advised +8 would work. Now can i get some links to good places to order these cables and hose. And I know I saw a thread on how to remove the lock and part of the fairing to remove the handlbars but i cant find it if some sees it send me the link pls.
Ride with Pride
Blue Knights (Texas) Ch. XVII
Tommy
#19
RE: New Ape Hanger need help pls
Installed 13" Cyclesmith's on my 98 Classic. Used 7+ for both throttle and clutch. Could of used 9+ for the clutch. As for brake lines, I used a kit for stock lower line that has the stock looking lower line setup "T" and used the 25" line uptop. If you want more infor on the brake lines, I'll look it up for you
As for wires, purchased 18" extension kit. $45 per side. They had the terminals on each end. More info, let me know on them also.
As for wires, purchased 18" extension kit. $45 per side. They had the terminals on each end. More info, let me know on them also.
#20
RE: New Ape Hanger need help pls
ORIGINAL: Chicago Spike
The only way to do this and have it look professional/stock is by doing a complete mock-up.
This entails removing all the controls from the stock bars and then mounting the new bars. Now mount all the controls and position the bars as are comfy for the rider. Now run wire(solid core is best as it doesn't bend easily) from the brake master cylinder to where it connects on the front end. Secure it with tape and then move the bars from lock left to lock right and see that there is no binding or pulling. Do this with the throttle cables and the clutch cable, make sure that nothing is binding or pulling when you turn the bars. Now take one wire off at a time and measure it twice. Then and ONLY then, you place the order
Remember, custom ordered cables/hoses are NOT returnable and too short will not work and too long will look very sloppy
The only way to do this and have it look professional/stock is by doing a complete mock-up.
This entails removing all the controls from the stock bars and then mounting the new bars. Now mount all the controls and position the bars as are comfy for the rider. Now run wire(solid core is best as it doesn't bend easily) from the brake master cylinder to where it connects on the front end. Secure it with tape and then move the bars from lock left to lock right and see that there is no binding or pulling. Do this with the throttle cables and the clutch cable, make sure that nothing is binding or pulling when you turn the bars. Now take one wire off at a time and measure it twice. Then and ONLY then, you place the order
Remember, custom ordered cables/hoses are NOT returnable and too short will not work and too long will look very sloppy