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Question for you Thundermax pros. I recently installed a T-Max Auto Tune and a Rinehart 2 into 1 at the same time. Loaded a map for Vance and Hines Pro Pipe because there was no setup for the Rinehart. Still isn't.Starts, Idles and Runs a lot bettter than before. Bike is running better each ride, but does have a single 'pop' when you grab the clutch quickly to downshift and my fuel mileage is crap. About 35 or so. I was getting 42 with the SERT and Rinehart True Duals and a good dyno. Any suggestions for maybe tweaking or changing the map? There is a map for a D&D but the Propipe was a better match, according to Zippers.
I have been running the T-max for about 6 months now....If you just loaded the base map for your set up, you are running 13:1 AFR. That's why your MPG is CRAP...To increase your MPG you will need to manually tweak your AFR settings in your cruise range, some have reported getting 45 to 47 after they adjust the AFR...
Also, the single pop is do to the map not being dead on, it should learn the correct settings withion a couple of 100 miles and improve from there....
Might want to go to the V-Twin Forum under the EFI Board andread the thread over there it's like 90 pages of GREAT information!!! Hope this helps...And you will love the T-max after it is dialed in it's a great add on!
I like the $850 power commander comment. Obviously, there is some misunderstanding as to what the "self tuners" do. They DO NOT tune the A/F ration for best power or economy. They is what you are setting when you go into the maps by the rpm/tps/A/F. What the tuner does is adjust the pulse width to reach/maintain the A/F ratio that you set on the map. So, if you put the thing on and change pipes later, cams, bigger throttle body, or different intakes, the system will adjust to the added/subtracted air flow to meet the A/F ration target on the map. You have to know what is best for your engine set up and personal desires....i.e. 50 mpg or a tire shredder. What zippers does when they tune on their maps (at least this is what it looks like to me) is to give the best power without totally robbing fuel milage. You can adjust the A/F ration between 2048 - 2800 rpm at the 20 percent or so tps to 14.2 which will increase your milage. However, when I did that I found heat problems in severe stop and go traffic. I decided I would just rather avoid that and changed the map back to 13.8. That keeps the engine cool, runs strong, and I still get 48 mpg at 70-75 steady state cruise on flat land.
The only change I made to my map is that zippers had the A/F at 12 to 1 on the upper 3/4 throttle and higher rpm ranges...I think that was too rich. I am still running the change to allow it to adjust and I will see what the effect is as to power/pinging. Verdict is still out on this one.
I have read before tuning. Have had a couple in the Dyno with veryun-impressive results compared to EFI Race Tuner's. How many have youDyno'd besides your own. Zipper's advertisement claim that it will tune itself and no Dyno tuning is required. I read that. I also read the many downloads and flyers sent to my dealership to try to promote their product. Have spoke with Patrick Little at Zipper's several times about tuning caricteristics of this ECM. Still it is a upgrade version of the PC. It has a "canned" map that youchoose. The only advantage is the wide band O2 sensors to maintain and adjust fuel to what is coming out of the exhaust. This can be done in a Dyno with a sniffer. What else should I read. There are several post on this forum I have rad about what map's to use and how to make adjustments. I read that. I had one on a Zipper's 113 KIT, adjsuted by them that got 112 horse and 25 mpg. we tuned ,removed and Installed EFI race tuner and got 120 horse and much more mpg. No bashing but I think I have read about as much as the next guy, I don't see $850.00 worth.
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