I don’t have the money for a big bore build I just want to wake-up my 05 Ultra Classic. I have the true duel Rinehart’s, stage 1 air cleaner, and 1550 down load. What cam can I install to wake-up my bike? Is the HQ-0034 the right cam? Chain drive or gear drive? I’m in the process of 21” front and 18” rear wheels. Detachable tour pak. Removing all of the bars around the bags. So there will be some weight loss. Should I go with the power commander also? Thanks for any info.

 

Are you looking for hp or torque? What kind of riding (1 up, 2 up) Highway or backroads

 

The HQ-0034 would be a great cam to go with. From what I understandthey will work great later on down the road with BB, and head work. I would also recomend going with the gear drive.

 

Mostly 2 up and Jersey is flat. I ride both hwy and back roads.

 

I like my Andrews 26G's.

 

The 0034's would be a great choice. I know CarlT (HarleyPingman) got close to 90/90 out of his 04EG with just 0034's and a good tune. The 26's are also nice cams. I have used them many times. The 0034's seem to be the same on the low end, but provide more atthe higher end and are also better as youbegin to add other things (headwork, compression, etc.).

As was already mentioned, they will also be fine if you increase bore & compression later.

As with ANY cam change, results are directly tied to the quality of your tune.

Chain or gear drive is really up to you. I have read that polishing (de-burring) the back side of the chains dramatically reduces tensioner wear. If $$$ is a serious concern, then chain drive cams are certainly less expensive. Having said that, I prefer to use gear drive cams.... options, options...

 

Sure enjoyed the Andrews 37 cams I had in my bike, They don't come in till around 2300 rpm's, then they pull hard till 6000 rpm's. They was great at hauling the old lady around, Work good with head work and piston upgrade too.

 

If I go to gear drive what happens to the chains? Do you pull them out? Do you have to remove the top end?

 

The chains & tensioners come out.

Nope, there is no need to remove the topend. You can snip the stock pushrods w/bolt cutters & replace them with "EZ Install" pushrods.

I would suggest replacing the lifters while your there. This way the new cam lobes wear in with new rollers on the lifters & there are no pre-existing wear patterns that mine speed weatr of the new cams. Also, be sure to replace both sets (inner & outer) of bearings.

 

Mopar7: As PhilM mentioned, I have the HQ-0034 cams in my stock 88 '04 EGwith Rinehart TD's and SE a/c. They really woke up my stock motor--I don't have a sensitive butt dyno, but I seriously thought about buying a backrest for those testosterone moments when I get on it from a low speed roll. I rode with PhilM earlier this year and he said my bike was one of the strongest 88's he'd seen. I went with chain drive because I am confident the new tensioners will be could for 30K miles (about 2 years of riding for me) and didn't want the intial expense of converting to gear drive.

You will need some type of fuel/ignition modification to the bike: SERT, Power Commander, etc. I chose the SERT and tuned it with a Twin Scan II+ with Pirateye (Kevin) looking over my shoulder. No pinging or decel popping.

You should also consider changing the primary gearing(the compensating sprocket and clutch sprocket) to3.37:1 (which was stock on touring EFI bikes for a few years ending in '01 models) to replace the stock 3.15:1. List price on the HD parts is $450 and its a simple bolt in project using the same primary chain. You can do a search here for 3.37:1 and get many posts on this change.