MM EFI Rears it's ugly head
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 158
Likes: 1
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RE: MM EFI Rears it's ugly head
I have a 99 FLFTCI which was hot rodded. 570 cams head work larger throttle body and all the usually stuff. It ran ok but was very rich. I had a pcIII on it and had it dynoed twice to get it right.
Last spring after fighting poor mileage and some eratic preformance I took the plung and replace the MM with a Zippers TMax with autotune. The change over was easy and went along with out any hitches. I purchased it from a indy and the price was a good one.
The bike still runs as strong as it did with the original setup and gets better mileage and I don't have to pay another 2-300 to get it tuned anymore regardless of what I change. I put many many miles on it last year and I ever pulled my trailer. Ran great with out missing a beat and starts and idles perfectly. It even sounds better then it used to.
Last spring after fighting poor mileage and some eratic preformance I took the plung and replace the MM with a Zippers TMax with autotune. The change over was easy and went along with out any hitches. I purchased it from a indy and the price was a good one.
The bike still runs as strong as it did with the original setup and gets better mileage and I don't have to pay another 2-300 to get it tuned anymore regardless of what I change. I put many many miles on it last year and I ever pulled my trailer. Ran great with out missing a beat and starts and idles perfectly. It even sounds better then it used to.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 185
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RE: MM EFI Rears it's ugly head
I had the same problem with my 01. I had a pc3 and tried to tune it out with that but it never really worked. Brought it in for dyno tune and the cold adjustment to be adjusted. It ran good after that no poping or fouling plugs. I did have the bike shut down run funny once and while so i decided to change out fuel pump. It turns out that the plastic lines where leaking and you could see the gas pissing out these littlle holes when i took pump out. I broke the pump (plastic piece were hose connects so i got a aftermarket one off ebay it has metal fitting and no works and runs great. It ran without any hickups on a 6 day 3000+ Thru mountians in the rain and stop and go traffic in sturgis last year. Hope this helps
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,183
Likes: 1
From: Lenexa, KS (KC)
RE: MM EFI Rears it's ugly head
I've got a 00 with MM/EFI and no trouble so far. In fact, runs great, but could just be my bike. I'm assuming you don't have bad gas or dirty fuel injectors? May not necessarily be the EFI.
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
RE: MM EFI Rears it's ugly head
ORIGINAL: Terry1955
Have them run a pressure test on your Fuel Pump. Sounds like you have a leak in the fuel line inside the tank. I had the same problem a couple of summers ago and if you know what you are looking for it's an easy fix (for a tech). I found the info here on the forum.
Terry
Have them run a pressure test on your Fuel Pump. Sounds like you have a leak in the fuel line inside the tank. I had the same problem a couple of summers ago and if you know what you are looking for it's an easy fix (for a tech). I found the info here on the forum.
Terry
It's supposed to be up to 47* here today, so gonna try and take it in at lunch if the rain holds off. Tis their problem for now, mine when the warranty expires.
Thanks for the help guys, will let ya know what they find.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 1,188
RE: MM EFI Rears it's ugly head
ORIGINAL: RKKY
Alot of times erratic conditions in the MM fuel injection can be cured with a hot/cold idle adjust. I would mention it if you take your bike in and be sure to mention service bulletin M-1105!!! The old way of correcting this problem was iffy at best and took approximately 4 hours according to book.
Alot of times erratic conditions in the MM fuel injection can be cured with a hot/cold idle adjust. I would mention it if you take your bike in and be sure to mention service bulletin M-1105!!! The old way of correcting this problem was iffy at best and took approximately 4 hours according to book.
I can provide details if you're interested.Checking the idle settings is a good idea, but performance as lousy as you're describing is something more than just improper idle settings.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,464
Likes: 624
RE: MM EFI Rears it's ugly head
ORIGINAL: wldbill
My 01 has had some head and cam work done on it and a DFO was used to bring the MM into tune. It's my understanding that you cant use a SERT with this system.
ORIGINAL: Biggzed
Dalton is right. My old MM bike ran great, even with a mild 95" kit on it. Other bikes I've known have never ran right from the begining. No logic to it. Eliminate the easy stuff like intake/exhaust leaks, worn parts etc. You might consider have buying a race tuner and having it tuned by a good shop if you have one local to you. Would probably cost about the same to convert it to a carb also. You have options.
Nice looking bike, don't give up to easy.
Dalton is right. My old MM bike ran great, even with a mild 95" kit on it. Other bikes I've known have never ran right from the begining. No logic to it. Eliminate the easy stuff like intake/exhaust leaks, worn parts etc. You might consider have buying a race tuner and having it tuned by a good shop if you have one local to you. Would probably cost about the same to convert it to a carb also. You have options.
Nice looking bike, don't give up to easy.
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
RE: MM EFI Rears it's ugly head
Well, I took it to the dealer, and they cannot find anything wrong. They put it on the dyno, and it ran fine. No error codes, etc.
Thinking of calling them and having them set it outside and let it get cold. Then start it, warm it up, then shut it off. Wait for it to cool off, then start it again. Seems that is when it always happens to me.
Will see what they say
Thinking of calling them and having them set it outside and let it get cold. Then start it, warm it up, then shut it off. Wait for it to cool off, then start it again. Seems that is when it always happens to me.
Will see what they say
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 619
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RE: MM EFI Rears it's ugly head
Like I said in my earlier post, even though the techs say they know about the system, trust me, they don't! They are just using the manual to try to trouble shoot it just like you can. Might as well learn all about the MM system if you are keeping it, no one else is gonna know enough to help you and you'll have em chasing phantoms around forever. I stand by my earlier suggestion, switch to carb! About $3-400 and 4-6 hours work, piece of cake you can do yourself.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,749
Likes: 16
From: sand mountain Alabama
RE: MM EFI Rears it's ugly head
Mine did this for the first time at 13,000 miles. I turned the kill switch off and the ing. let it set for a min.+- cranked it and it ran fine since. Reset everthing. Last sept. I was on a trip and my bike would not drop below 1,500-2,000 rpms. Took it to a dealer-had 6,000 miles at the time- ran fine for them. the mech. said it was the idel sensor. I just reset the ing... I agree HD's FI has a lot to be desired.
I still like my Ultra more than my Honda though.
jim
I still like my Ultra more than my Honda though.
jim
Banned
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,301
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RE: MM EFI Rears it's ugly head
Got an 01 EGC with the MM on it.
Ran great for 7k miles before I wrecked it. No problems.
Had a 98 RG same system 50k before traded in . No fuel running problems with it
either.
Normally when it's time to trouble shoot electronics, it is the SIMPLE things, So start there first.
First is the battery and charging system.
with the age of the bike it could be having troubles there.
thoroughly clean both ends of the battery cable and use dielectric grease.
While seat is off, down in front of it is a circuit breaker and on either side is two grounding studs.
Clean and grease these also.
Check the condition of the stator, if starting to go bad, will show up on volt gauge as low voltage.
DISCONNECT BATTERY GROUND AND THEN:
Now if still exists, pull right side cover, there you will find map baro sensor, clean the plug on it and inspect the small hole inside of unit make sure it is not clogged. If so clean cently with a q-tip or such , BUT NO LIQUID. Remove the ECM and remove the connector and clean.
find the head temp sensor remove it and clean where it mounts and the connector too.
Now ride again if problem still exists. I would buy a new crank position sensor.
Considering they have no moving parts they seem to fail regularly.
Usually they become intermittent. cost is about $80.
If the dealer will check fuel pressure at idle and open throttle for free or a price you're willing to pay have it checked. A weak pump, partially clogged filter or a weak pressure regulator.
After doing the above which will be free or minimal in cost, you most likley will discover the cause.
Most dealer techs don't know how to diagnose a problem, and those that do, don't want to take the time. Because too much time costs them and the dealer money.
so you're left with studying everything you can on your bike or going to a dealer if you want it fixed right.
Ran great for 7k miles before I wrecked it. No problems.
Had a 98 RG same system 50k before traded in . No fuel running problems with it
either.
Normally when it's time to trouble shoot electronics, it is the SIMPLE things, So start there first.
First is the battery and charging system.
with the age of the bike it could be having troubles there.
thoroughly clean both ends of the battery cable and use dielectric grease.
While seat is off, down in front of it is a circuit breaker and on either side is two grounding studs.
Clean and grease these also.
Check the condition of the stator, if starting to go bad, will show up on volt gauge as low voltage.
DISCONNECT BATTERY GROUND AND THEN:
Now if still exists, pull right side cover, there you will find map baro sensor, clean the plug on it and inspect the small hole inside of unit make sure it is not clogged. If so clean cently with a q-tip or such , BUT NO LIQUID. Remove the ECM and remove the connector and clean.
find the head temp sensor remove it and clean where it mounts and the connector too.
Now ride again if problem still exists. I would buy a new crank position sensor.
Considering they have no moving parts they seem to fail regularly.
Usually they become intermittent. cost is about $80.
If the dealer will check fuel pressure at idle and open throttle for free or a price you're willing to pay have it checked. A weak pump, partially clogged filter or a weak pressure regulator.
After doing the above which will be free or minimal in cost, you most likley will discover the cause.
Most dealer techs don't know how to diagnose a problem, and those that do, don't want to take the time. Because too much time costs them and the dealer money.
so you're left with studying everything you can on your bike or going to a dealer if you want it fixed right.
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