Have it,,used it within 45 miles after purchace, I used it to avoid deer onour mayden voyage,,
We rode back into town for 30 miles of mule deer migration,, at least 7 HARD near complete stops
like 55 mph to 10mph. all of this while driving twisty roads in the dark...stupid me...but I believe
the ABS got me home...see pic of bike back ground...deer heaven...

 

My dealer said he could only order 40% of his touring bikes with ABS...I agree with those above that stated the dealer is trying to sell his non-ABS bikes.

Told my dealer what I wanted...he went looking for it.

 

Concerning cagers, many may have noticed that ABS does not work well in snow, dirt or mud.The non ABS vehicle's wheels will lock-up, dig intoa loose surface and itwill pile up in front of the wheels and help stop you muchquicker, when an ABS wheel will continue skating over the top of such surfacesfor longer distances. I wish there was an ABS on/offswitch like many vehicleshave for traction control.

As far as not buying a car without ABS, if I could only have one or the other, I would take the bike, but Ican understand and respect your opinion.

 

I still believe as I have posted on other threads that the real long term benefit to ABS on motorcycles will be the lives saved from high siding accidents. MOST people when doing a panic stop, because of experience with cars will hammer on the back brakes. The next thing to do is let off when the hazard has diminished. Get ready cause the next thing is human flight in many cases if the bike has slid to the side before brake release. T.

 

geargrider....if you live in a colder area where there is really hard ice a non-ABS car will actually feel like it is speeding up when the wheels lock on a patch of ice. In years past I can remember many occasions where I've gone into a slide and either went through or into an intersection and once the brakes locked it sure gave me the perception that the speed increased and there was a total loss of control, usually ending with a slide toward the curb or parked cars. Sometimes manual pumping of the brakes will help regain control, but it sure doesn't help you stop any faster. I'll take my ABS cars over non-ABS anytime.

 

Here is the deal.....
On the H-D ABS the front and rear brakes work independently...and are not porportioned.
The ABS system is along for the ride. You may apply as much pressure to the lever or pedal as you would like which is equivelant to "Foundation Braking" (no ABS). When you apply too much pressure (wheel lock on a non ABS bike) the wheel sensors send the message to the ABS control unit and it cycles up to 7 times per second adjusting the pressure to the brake/s. The system now allows maximum braking without wheel lockup under varying road surfaces and conditions.

ABS is along for the ride monitoring your situation and takes over when you make a boo boo and overbrake or are braking and encounter some type of slippery road condition.

No ABS---apply too much pressure and you get wheel lock up. If it is the front wheel and you do not immediately release....well the longest front wheel lock up that I have seen before the bike slammed to the ground was 17 feet. If it is a rear wheel lock up and the bike yaws more than 7 degrees and the brake is released=you are High Sided.

Now with all this going on plus clutch, downshifting, collision avoidance, your passenger pressing against your back, vehicles closing on your rear and everything else running through your mind just how good a "Foundation Braker" are you.

And YES "Foundation Braking" will have shorter stopping distances as compared to Full On "ABS" brake engagement. This statement though is limited to excellent road and surface conditions. Throw an little oil or sand in the mix...the question becomesCan you adjust your brakingpressure 7 times a second to keep the wheel/s from locking up while still maintaining maximum braking? I would much rather have an extended stopping distance if I boo booed and at least significantly decrease my speed prior to impact while maintaining upright control and maybe just maybe things in front of me could change and I might be able to ride around it.....Now if I dont have ABS and get front or rear wheel lockup.....I get slammed down from the front wheel because I didn't immediately release when it locked up or a possible high side from the rear...I HAVE NO CONTROL because I am on the ground sliding...I never have a chance to ride around it or get to that good dry pavement.

ABS, you bet....Best insurance around.

 

We are on the same page, I could have stated itthis way, ABS works better then non ABS on solid, hardsurfaces such as pavement, asphault or ice., but not as good on soft surfaces such as dirt, gravel, snow or mud.

I can't remember the exact percentages but it goes something like this. Maximum tire grip is when we have approx 7% slippage on pavement, braking or accelerating. When we initially apply the brakes with a non ABS wheel, we initially feel the maximum stopping power as we slip thru that 7% point of slippage. But as that percentage of slip increases the stopping power is reduced and we are not decelerating as much, feels like we are acellerating. With ABS, we are averaging that 7% slip angle more, plus we have steering control while this is happening. This info is what I remember from my race car driving school days, from schools such as Bondurant, Skip Barber, Bragg-Smith and others.

 

[sm=biker2.gif]I own a 2008 Ultra Classic and have tried my abs brakes one time to check out how they would react, it was smooth and short stopping distance. Two weeks ago I had to make a sudden stop on wet pavement and they were great, not sure I could have stopped without the abs brakes, I would have probably taken the ditch.I would be looking for a new dealer. I travel 150 miles to my dealer because my local dealer (25miles) cares only about the $$$$, not about me.
ride free and straight, bluedog

 

Thanks. Everyone. ABS it will be on the new bke.

 

Great decision, now let's hope you never need it, kinda like insurance.