evo 30 tooth install ?
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Winston Salen, NC
evo 30 tooth install ?
OK, my sprocket arrived today and I may get the time to install it this weekend. I read DAWG's install thread and I believe it looks pretty straight forward. Other than the dohickie thing or the rag method, is there any other specialty tools I will need? I guess I need to buy the manual since I have decided to try doing some of this stuff myself. I may not do the install till next weekend depending on how long it may take. That would also give me time to get the manual and any tools I will need since I am not fully stocked. If anyone has any helpful hints I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Winston Salen, NC
RE: evo 30 tooth install ?
ORIGINAL: hogdoc
Service manual and a 200 ft lb torque wrench. Would only take me 30-45 minutes to install.
Service manual and a 200 ft lb torque wrench. Would only take me 30-45 minutes to install.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 845
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From: ID ho
RE: evo 30 tooth install ?
ORIGINAL: monkish
Thanks, that is what I was hoping to hear. I will get the manual today if it is in stock and do the install this weekend. Swing by Harbor Freight or Sears for the torque wrench and be in business. I do have a lift and the rest of the basic tools so I should be ok. It will be in the 60's and sunshine all weekend too.
ORIGINAL: hogdoc
Service manual and a 200 ft lb torque wrench. Would only take me 30-45 minutes to install.
Service manual and a 200 ft lb torque wrench. Would only take me 30-45 minutes to install.
Banned
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,301
Likes: 4
From:
RE: evo 30 tooth install ?
Since you've never done it before plan on about 4 hours.
HD and others sell a special primary chain locking tool so you can
undo the comp nut and clutch hub nut. You can make do with a
rubber hammer handle or a piece of big truck mud flap. Big thing
is you want it to be cushioning the contact points.
The comp nut is right hand thread, the clutch is left hand.
The rotorcan bea B*itch to remove. You can put a couple large washers
on 2 bolts and thread into it and pull by hand, or buy or rent a straight
bar puller. I use my steering wheel puller.
Keep an eye ot for any spacers or shims on the comp / rotor assembly.
Besure during reassembly you don't "flip" the chain. It has a wear pattern
established. Flipping it will increase the wear on it and the sprockets.
Rear wheel needs to be loosened so slack is in the drive belt.
There are other things to watch out for, but the service manual will guide
through it.
5th gear will now be close to the same ratio as a 6speed 6th.
so you may notice a little less pulling power two up, into the wind or uphill.
HD and others sell a special primary chain locking tool so you can
undo the comp nut and clutch hub nut. You can make do with a
rubber hammer handle or a piece of big truck mud flap. Big thing
is you want it to be cushioning the contact points.
The comp nut is right hand thread, the clutch is left hand.
The rotorcan bea B*itch to remove. You can put a couple large washers
on 2 bolts and thread into it and pull by hand, or buy or rent a straight
bar puller. I use my steering wheel puller.
Keep an eye ot for any spacers or shims on the comp / rotor assembly.
Besure during reassembly you don't "flip" the chain. It has a wear pattern
established. Flipping it will increase the wear on it and the sprockets.
Rear wheel needs to be loosened so slack is in the drive belt.
There are other things to watch out for, but the service manual will guide
through it.
5th gear will now be close to the same ratio as a 6speed 6th.
so you may notice a little less pulling power two up, into the wind or uphill.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 758
Likes: 0
From: Winston Salen, NC
RE: evo 30 tooth install ?
ORIGINAL: choochoo
Since you've never done it before plan on about 4 hours.
HD and others sell a special primary chain locking tool so you can
undo the comp nut and clutch hub nut. You can make do with a
rubber hammer handle or a piece of big truck mud flap. Big thing
is you want it to be cushioning the contact points.
The comp nut is right hand thread, the clutch is left hand.
The rotorcan bea B*itch to remove. You can put a couple large washers
on 2 bolts and thread into it and pull by hand, or buy or rent a straight
bar puller. I use my steering wheel puller.
Keep an eye ot for any spacers or shims on the comp / rotor assembly.
Besure during reassembly you don't "flip" the chain. It has a wear pattern
established. Flipping it will increase the wear on it and the sprockets.
Rear wheel needs to be loosened so slack is in the drive belt.
There are other things to watch out for, but the service manual will guide
through it.
5th gear will now be close to the same ratio as a 6speed 6th.
so you may notice a little less pulling power two up, into the wind or uphill.
Since you've never done it before plan on about 4 hours.
HD and others sell a special primary chain locking tool so you can
undo the comp nut and clutch hub nut. You can make do with a
rubber hammer handle or a piece of big truck mud flap. Big thing
is you want it to be cushioning the contact points.
The comp nut is right hand thread, the clutch is left hand.
The rotorcan bea B*itch to remove. You can put a couple large washers
on 2 bolts and thread into it and pull by hand, or buy or rent a straight
bar puller. I use my steering wheel puller.
Keep an eye ot for any spacers or shims on the comp / rotor assembly.
Besure during reassembly you don't "flip" the chain. It has a wear pattern
established. Flipping it will increase the wear on it and the sprockets.
Rear wheel needs to be loosened so slack is in the drive belt.
There are other things to watch out for, but the service manual will guide
through it.
5th gear will now be close to the same ratio as a 6speed 6th.
so you may notice a little less pulling power two up, into the wind or uphill.
Choo- Your remark does have me a bit confused now as it is my understanding that the drive sprocket is going to lower my final ratio (a higher number) which would make my 6th gear be MORE usable rather than make my 5th gear less pull. My sprocket also came with a new chain the right lengththat will be installed as well. I am also confused about loosening the drive belt to do this install.
Anywy if you would like to clarify some of this it would be helpful. I will not start the projec untl I am sure I have everything and understand what I am getting into. This may be a project for a cold weekend instead of a 60 degree sunshine opportunity if you no what I mean.
(sorry for those who have snow) [:'(]I am in no hurry and will wait until I have all the info I need.
Thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,523
Likes: 3,953
From: Vermont
RE: evo 30 tooth install ?
You do not need to loosen the rear wheel. The one point that I can tell you to disregard is the manual will tell you to ziptie the chain adjuster closed before you take it out so that it can be reinstalled without having to finagle with the adjuster. However, since you are putting on a smaller chain, the adjuster would have been ziptied at the point for the stock chain and will not fit under the new chain. Therefore, don't bother with the ziptie as you are going to have to collapse the adjuster manually while it is out and then ziptie it and reinstall it. The manual will explain how to collapse the adjuster and it is very simple.
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