Custom Auxillary Lighting Kit installation. PICS ADDED!
I want to put these on my RKCustom, but the overall cost is just too much for me right now. Probably be more labor intensive too, without the fairing to hide everything in. Looks good Ultra!!
It is a little bit more involved with a RK, but nothing someone minimally mechanically inclined couldn't tackle. If you want a copy of the install instructions, just post or PM me. The instructions will give you an idea of what you'd be up against and also inform you of other parts you'd need to complete the job ahead of time.
Let me know if I can help.
Howard, looks like you have a good handle on how to approach and accomplish your project. That is one clean scoot~! I work with an ex-1%'er from the old days that still has his '61 Panhead and it is cherry. He's turned an offering of $16k down recently. Sweet bike.
I want to put these on my RKCustom, but the overall cost is just too much for me right now. Probably be more labor intensive too, without the fairing to hide everything in. Looks good Ultra!!
ultra, great job on your install. its funny, i was just starting to warm up to the light bar...... was never a really big fan of all those extra lights up front. i know it puts out more light, i know its better for visibility, i just never really cared for them. now i'm starting to think, hmmm.... could add one. and you go and do this. definitely better. (also, just noticed that the bar is not compatible with my turn signal mounts.... oh well, might have to go your route one day)
You can actually get 55w bulbs for the new style passing lamps. They really "light" up the area in front of the bike.
This link, thanks to HarleyPingMan, tells all you need to know about passing lamp bubls:
https://www.hdforums.com/m_2939044/tm.htm
Good luck
If you need additional front light, take a look at the Danile Stern web page. He has several alternates for headlamps
Just be careful not to get toooo much white light, the old Swede Rally Drivers would add yellow "fog" lamps to their rally cars for depth perception. Something to keep in mind
Ride Em
What mounting are you using with the Motolights?
We mounted ours on the calipers, with 55w yellow bulbs for added depth perception and a different front view for on coming drivers.
We run the headlight and yellow Motolights all the time, so that the light "triangle" we present to on coming vehicles says "Hey this is something different" headed towards us !
Good Luck
And thanks again for the passing lamp link
...............Anyway to get the pins out with out cutting. If I could remove them from the plug they would go though no problem. Now that the fairing is back together is it a better idea to let the stealer do the job or tackle it again by my self. I have plenty of down time with the shattered left leg so down time isnt a concern
Take a pinlight or something comparable and a very small blade flathead screwdriver and shine the light down into the wiring connector and you should see a little "catch" that keeps the wire in place. Finesse the small flat head screwdriver into this little slot and push the "catch" down and the wire will come right out.
Definitely something you could do.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
A bit more about the GRAY wire, what I did was cover the gray wire with electrical tape TIGHTLY wrapped around it and fed it through the hole in the bracket. This kept the bracket from possibly cutting into the wire with the micro-burrs around the edges of the holes that you are pushing the wires through, as well as adding a wee bit of protectionfrom being cut from the vibration of the bike. Again, ****, but reassured my wire would not be damaged and possibly short out.
The GRAY wire exiting the Aux. light and entering into the bracket is the reason you need the socket with a cut-out.
About the pins, approach the CONNECTOR from the side that the wires go INTO the connector. The little "catch" is actually a little ramp that the pin slides past, then as the pen reaches it's destination inside the connector the ramp "snaps" and the edge of the pin itself holds the pin in place keeping one from being able to pull it out. Push the flathead screwdriver(or similar device) into the connector and either let the screwdriver displace the space and force the ramp downwards allowing you to remove the wire, or slightly push down on the ramp and pull the wire out.
I could have easily done a tutorial on this as it was not difficult but I was almost through before I realized the possible benefit of doing one. The task went that easily and quickly.
Don't be intimidated by my longwinded reply
Here is a shot of the GRAY wire wrapped in electrical tape going thru the bracket and again this is the reason for the socket that is cut-out.
Maybe a visual will help. I left the pic quite big when editing so you can see it.:
[IMG]local://upfiles/22226/25339E489F49439CB2065148E04F38EF.jpg[/IMG]






