capt-caveman - Ive heard the same complaints from others where it is always someone elses fault. In this case I almost hit a stationary vehicle at an intersection. The responsibility goes squarely on my shoulders and I accept that. This is my diamond in the rough. Ive always heard that those who dont learn from history are sure to repeat it and that insanity is trying the same thing over and over while expecting different results. I want to learn from this history lesson and try not to repeat it and my job at work is insanity on its own part. On the bike is where I can get my thoughts together, let the problems go behind me and have me time. I am not about to give it up, I will learn and ride on.

 

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Bullcrap!!!!!!&nbsp\\; Anybody with four functioning limbs can ride a motorcycle.&nbsp\\; Unfortunately bad crap can happen before you become really proficient at it.&nbsp\\; Classes are a great start, but time in the seat is what seasons a rider.
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Unfortunatly, there are folks that take the BRC class and do not pass. There are folks that take the BRC class and pass and REALLY should not be on a motorcycle. Some folks are just not cut out to ride a motorcycle. that said, if you do ride, it is a CONSTANT learning process and CONSTANT awareness on the road.

I recently took the ERC class, and personally for me, I walked away from the class learning very little and they did not teach the use of the rear brake.

Proper application of the front brake involves a rapid but gradual squeezing of the brake lever.

This is why it is critical to use all four fingers when braking. First you want the maximum amount of your strength available to you, but equally important, you want every bit of your ability to control with minute adjustment. You must squeeze the brake lever so that, as the stopping force is applied, weight begins to transfer to the front end of the motorcycle. This compresses the front forks. Only as this weight transfer begins, do you continue your squeeze, applying more and more braking power. If you “grab” the lever, it puts all the braking power to the wheel instantly, which will cause a front wheel lock-up. If a front wheel lock-up occurs, the correct response is to RELEASE IMMEDIATELY AND RE-APPLY PROPERLY. Again, the amount of braking available when the front brake is applied properly, allowing the weight to transfer will cause lock-up if the lever is pulled that same amount before the weight transfer has occurred. Even though it is a gradual process, the weight transfer takes very little time, only that brief fraction of a second difference between a controlled squeeze, and a panicked grab.

Application of the rear brake is actually quite simple. The most common error is overapplication. This is particularly likely as you develop your skill at properly using the front brake, since you will now be transferring more weight than you are used to away from the rear wheel. Your conscious effort should be to merely rest your foot on the rear brake lever (your heel should remain on the footboard or peg). What actually occurs is the same weight transfer that affects the machine affects the rider. Your foot will move just enough to apply the proper pressure. For those of you who have attended the MSF or Rider’s Edge courses, you probably remember being told that if you lock the rear wheel, you should simply leave it locked. The theory is that by keeping the wheel locked, you will not induce a “high-side” if the wheel suddenly regains traction.

Develop your riding skills far beyond the basic level. Part of this will be your response to a locked rear wheel. Instead of just leaving it alone (locked), you should release pressure only until traction is regained. This way you retain full control of the machine, and achieve the shortest possible stop. The danger of a high side comes from a sudden and complete release of a locked rear wheel, when the rear end of the motor has slid out at least six degrees.

So again, I will stress that if you lock the rear wheel, release pressure only until traction is regained. Recognition of a locked rear wheel is usually easy, as it is the same sensation most of us have felt while driving a car. The motor’s rear-end starts to move to one side. The squealing noise of a tire skidding is more likely with a rear wheel lock-up.

No attempt should be made to pump or modulate the brakes. Both the front and rear should be given a steady, constant application.

I personally have learned more from handling the bike using the http://ridelikeapro.com DVD than any other classes or tools!
Buying the DVD is easy. Watching the DVD is easy. Practicing the exercises takes time, dedication and disipline!

 

Make sure you’re pulling the clutch lever while you begin your braking. Removing power to the rear wheel after the rear brake has been applied often leads to rear wheel lock, since the removal of power to the wheel enhances the brake’s effect.

This exercise&nbsp\\;\\s very straightforward.

Ride between a pair of cones, placed ten feet apart. These will be your cue to begin braking. Along your path there should be a cone every ten feet, for 100 feet. This will allow you to gauge your improvement.

Begin at 20 MPH. On your first run, use only the rear brake, and stop as quickly as you can without locking the rear wheel. Note the distance. Next, take several runs at 20 MPH, and use only the front brake. You will immediately see how much more effective the front brake is. Pay attention to the weight transfer. You will quickly learn to feel how it occurs, and when it is safe to add additional pressure to the brake lever. Again, if you lock the front wheel, RELEASE IMMEDIATELY AND RE-APPLY PROPERLY. Note your best distance using the front brake alone.

Finally move on to combination braking. Remain at 20 MPH. You should immediately notice a distance shorter than your previous efforts. Work on your braking, until you consistently get smooth stops, using all the principals discussed. Then move up to 25 MPH, and determine what your shortest, regularly attainable distance is. Continue in 5 MPH increments, to 30, 35, and finally 40 MPH. At 40 MPH you should be able to come to a complete, controlled, and safe stop within 70 feet or less. However, this will take considerable practice. Do not push yourself for big improvements all at once. It is more important that you practice the techniques, as the way you do it here will be the way you do it in an emergency on the street.

To summarize:

1) Ride steadily at your designated speed to the cue cones. You may “cover” the brakes prior to the cones, but do not apply early.


2) Keep your focus out and up


3) At the cones, apply both the front and rear brakes, using a quick but gradual squeeze of the front, and merely resting your foot on the rear. Let the force of the weight transfer take care off the rear brake application.


4) Simultaneously with your brake application, pull in the clutch lever, and downshift.


5) Remain alert for the signs of a locked front wheel smooth feeling in the handlebars, the handlebars turning to one side, and a change of sight picture. If you have a front wheel lock-up, RELEASE IMMEDIATELY AND RE-APPLY PROPERLY.


6) If you have a locked rear wheel gradually release pressure only until traction is regained.


7) When you come to a stop put only your left foot down. Since you are not removing your foot from the footboard until fully stopped, it should never be necessary to move your foot once it touches the ground.

 

Take your time, and do not increase your speed in this exercise until you are quite certain of your abilities at the present speed. Should you have any difficulties, drop back at least a few miles per hour. It is best to have someone present while you are practicing this exercise. Failure to properly respond to a locked front wheel will cause a fall. Injury is likely in that case. Therefore it’s best to have a person there to summon help should you need it. That person should also watch to see if you are letting off your speed prior to the cue cones. That is a common problem for riders in this exercise.

Once you have become fully proficient in getting your stops to their shortest possible distance, and thus are competent in emergency stopping, there is one more technique to practice. This is for use in your everyday riding, not in emergency stops. However, you will practice in the same way. Using your braking chute, come in the exact same way, and at the same 40 MPH. However, at the end of your stop, release just enough pressure on the front brake lever to allow the compression of the front forks to ease back out, rather than spring up at the moment of complete stop. This will allow you a better feeling of control as you stop. You should find that this adds only a few feet, if that, to your stopping distance. This will give you a feel for how to stop, putting the motor on exactly the spot you desire.

While you should not attempt to use compression braking in an emergency stop, for regular riding, where you’re making planned stops, use the engine’s compression to help slow you. This makes your stops more controlled, and ensures that you’re in the proper gear should you need to resume acceleration, for instance when you’re slowing for a red signal that then turns green.

Having mastered the RLAP exercises and completed this exercise, you have developed two of the skills that separate skilled operators from most riders. You now have the ability to handle the motorcycle at very low speed, and the ability to effectively utilize all of the motorcycle’s braking power.

 

ride like a pro dvd and training course are the best class you can take
i bought the dvd and did the ride like pro west coast training was the best
bucks ever spent the knowledge is awesome

 

Thanks for the replys, I will be ordering the RLAP DVD the first of July. I have talked to the HOG chapter safety officer and he is trying to set up a ERC course within the next month, I will be taking that. I hope to take the RLAP course around October, its about 8 hours away from me but gives me a great excuse to get out and ride for a weekend away from home.
Merlin - thanks for the information on braking and the steps for praticing. I will be spending my free time in the future praticing this frequently to build up my confidence and my wife's. It's a great bike that I absoultely love. Ive heard a lot of people getting rid of theirs to go with a 08 that has ABS, thats not an option for me, instead I will invest in training to increase my skill's and situational awareness.
Thanks for all the great input and help.

 

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It ain't bullcrap man.&nbsp\\; Some folks can play the piano some can't.&nbsp\\; At the risk of seeming like a hardass I think MOST people riding Harleys now can't ride for beans!&nbsp\\; They might have the physical ability to (some never will) ride a bike and learn but most can't ride really well. They go to a silly class for a day or two, ride around on a little putt-putt bike and if they can ride around a few road cones they're legal to ride an Ultra Classic two up and pull a trailer!&nbsp\\; Maybe they want a Hyabusa.&nbsp\\; All the "training" in the world is worthless if you have to think before acting in an emergency.&nbsp\\; It has to be second nature to you and only experience in a lot of situations will get you to be a proficient rider.&nbsp\\; A new bike might act differently than your one.&nbsp\\; It takes time to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of a new ride.
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You don't take a drivers test in a Toyota pickup and jump into an 18 wheeler, or learn to fly a Cessna and then fly a 747.&nbsp\\;
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There might be other ways to get to know what to do when traction is gone and you're suddenly sliding sideways, or a dog has just appeared 5 ft in front of you, but I learned to ride in the dirt and on flat tracks.&nbsp\\; I fell down a lot but I learned how to react.&nbsp\\; There isn't time to think.&nbsp\\; You have to have the feeling and know instinctivly what to do. If people do what they would in a car on a bike, and most do, they will fall down.
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I think most touring riders ride for the enjoyment and tend to be serious about their riding skills.&nbsp\\; But how many guys do you see just showing off.&nbsp\\; Their loud pipes aren't for performance it's about "look at me".&nbsp\\; If they don't fall down doing a burnout they think they can ride.&nbsp\\; We all see them every nice day, and they are not good riders and don't really care to be.&nbsp\\; Sorry for the rant, but that's my strong opinion.

 

+1 on ride like a pro. Great investment for 20 bucks. You will learn loads.

 

Salty, don't wait to take the ride-like-a-pro in Florida, get the DVD, cut in half a bunch of old tennis *****, lay out your course and start to practice exactly the course in the DVD.&nbsp\\;\\\\\\;Merlin's got you covered on this\\\\\\; good advice you bet. Practice the ride-like-a-pro course, which is&nbsp\\;\\\\\\;the advanced riding course, and you'll be thanking yourself every single time you get on your ride.
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axe11