Rinehart Baffle Removal
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 743
Likes: 4
From: Ohio
Just replaced my std baffles this morning with the quiet baffles I bought. The baffles will come out on the true dual mufflers but i don't think they do on the regular slip-on mufflers.
First insert a long object like the handle end of a pipe wrench into the baffle and wiggle it side tide and top to bottom to loosen it up slightly. Then get a pair of vice grips and clamp onto end of baffle a hit the vice grips with a hammer.
First insert a long object like the handle end of a pipe wrench into the baffle and wiggle it side tide and top to bottom to loosen it up slightly. Then get a pair of vice grips and clamp onto end of baffle a hit the vice grips with a hammer.
Last edited by wjl24; Aug 29, 2009 at 10:29 PM.
I spent 2.5 hours this week trying to remove the baffles from my slip ons. I am beginning to think that there are some Rinehart slip ons that have removable baffles and some that do not. I did email Bub and got a response with only instructions attached to R&R baffles. Really the same thing we've all been doing. No luck at al, I don't think my baffles are removable. Looking for a Thunderheader now, maybe the new Thunderheader Duals.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,413
Likes: 17
From: eastern oklahoma
the wd 40 is not the answer. it's not much of a penetrating oil at all. wd-40 actually stands for water displacement, fortieth formula. it's good at what it's designed to do. the pb stuff they sell at walmart and every auto chain store, power blaster with the yellow plastic top, is an actual penetrating oil. i have no issues removing the baffles from my rinehart slip ons. but i don't use windex or wd 40 either. easy to repack, using woven fiberglass from an auto body supply house also. not the matt as it's just gonna fall apart. the woven fiberglass cloth like stuff is the bomb. i hope this helps someone anyway. just gotta be patient, and not beat the hell out of everything to where it's distorted enough to where it can't slide out properly. that power blaster penetrating oil stuff is great. wd 40 also has its uses, but it's not a penetrating oil at all.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
Likes: 46
From: Roswell, GA
The baffle has a flange at the headpipe end and press fit so they don't rattle around; so it takes some force to remove it.
I removed mine from the RTD mufflers a couple of months ago and it was a pita and dirty (four years/40K+ miles of useage). I used Simple Green sprayed in from both ends, a rubber mallet and wood dowel at the headpipe end, and, once the baffle started to clear the rear of the muffler, wiggling it back and forth while pulling. And I'd periodically flush the muffler and re-apply Simple Green.
Good luck.
I removed mine from the RTD mufflers a couple of months ago and it was a pita and dirty (four years/40K+ miles of useage). I used Simple Green sprayed in from both ends, a rubber mallet and wood dowel at the headpipe end, and, once the baffle started to clear the rear of the muffler, wiggling it back and forth while pulling. And I'd periodically flush the muffler and re-apply Simple Green.
Good luck.
Novice
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
removing stuck baffles
I drilled holes in my baffles through the end cap holes. I drilled them on an angle toward the headpipe so that they didn't line up with the end cap holes. After I had a hole in the baffle that was closer to the head pipe end of the muffler than the back of the muffler I slid a rod through both holes and pried them out. It works best if you have holes in your baffles across from each other and pry from both sides at the same time. Be careful and you won't booger up the end cap holes in the mufflers. Worked for me!
6th Gear
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Tom, A friend of mine and I bought the rienhart true duals at Sturgis and talked to Gerald Rienhart about not wanting them really loud. The medium ones were a little to loud so they sent us the quiet ones out the next week. Gerald told us if they were to loud just wrap them with baffle wrap which we got at Cycle World. If that is still to loud open up the holes in the baffles some.
I wrapped mine twice, second time with more wrap and now really like them.
As far as removing, mine come right out once I remove the cap and tug alittle with needle nose.
I wrapped mine twice, second time with more wrap and now really like them.
As far as removing, mine come right out once I remove the cap and tug alittle with needle nose.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,042
Likes: 86
From: Centeral Coast, California
The baffle has a flange at the headpipe end and press fit so they don't rattle around; so it takes some force to remove it.
I removed mine from the RTD mufflers a couple of months ago and it was a pita and dirty (four years/40K+ miles of useage). I used Simple Green sprayed in from both ends, a rubber mallet and wood dowel at the headpipe end, and, once the baffle started to clear the rear of the muffler, wiggling it back and forth while pulling. And I'd periodically flush the muffler and re-apply Simple Green.
Good luck.
I removed mine from the RTD mufflers a couple of months ago and it was a pita and dirty (four years/40K+ miles of useage). I used Simple Green sprayed in from both ends, a rubber mallet and wood dowel at the headpipe end, and, once the baffle started to clear the rear of the muffler, wiggling it back and forth while pulling. And I'd periodically flush the muffler and re-apply Simple Green.
Good luck.
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Advanced
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Irving (Dallas Area) Texas
I had the same problem
If you remove the muffler, then from the inlet side, look in and you will see a shoulder, which is the original baffle.
I removed the end cap then placed a couple pieces of wood on the floor spaced far enough apart to support the end of the pipe but not under the baffle. I then covered the wood with a rag, set the end of the muffler that had the cap on the boards. Then I took a large screwdriver to the lip of the baffles inside the inlet side of the muffler. I hit the screwdriver with a hammer two or three times at 90 degree intervals, repeated and after about two rounds, the baffle loosened up enough to wiggle out from the flange end. I did this after they had been on the bike over two years. There was some rust, but not between the baffles and the pipes. I also had to trim the length of the quiet baffles as they were longer than the original baffles and were sticking out the end of the pipe once seated. I took about 3/4 of an inch off of both and then seated in pipe. Replaced the end caps, which trapped the baffles in place. It's been about 6 months now and I think I am going back to the original baffles with some wrap on them as the quiet baffles are a little tinny sounding to my ears. Just don't have the same deep rumble as the standard baffles.
Good luck
I removed the end cap then placed a couple pieces of wood on the floor spaced far enough apart to support the end of the pipe but not under the baffle. I then covered the wood with a rag, set the end of the muffler that had the cap on the boards. Then I took a large screwdriver to the lip of the baffles inside the inlet side of the muffler. I hit the screwdriver with a hammer two or three times at 90 degree intervals, repeated and after about two rounds, the baffle loosened up enough to wiggle out from the flange end. I did this after they had been on the bike over two years. There was some rust, but not between the baffles and the pipes. I also had to trim the length of the quiet baffles as they were longer than the original baffles and were sticking out the end of the pipe once seated. I took about 3/4 of an inch off of both and then seated in pipe. Replaced the end caps, which trapped the baffles in place. It's been about 6 months now and I think I am going back to the original baffles with some wrap on them as the quiet baffles are a little tinny sounding to my ears. Just don't have the same deep rumble as the standard baffles.
Good luck
Last edited by flynng; Jan 4, 2011 at 10:58 AM. Reason: spelling