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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 09:31 PM
  #11  
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96349

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, this is the easy way. Make sure you set the pivot in the bottom holes.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FLTRI4ME
Its best to cut the 4x4 the width of the bed so it cant slide out.

I want to sandwich the tire in place. The 4x4 will be vertical with a couple 2x6's screwed on each side so the bars can't turn. The tire is wider than a 4x4, so that's why I was asking the width.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 09:32 PM
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Heh, I was just about to post the other one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97841
 
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Teachu2
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96349

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, this is the easy way. Make sure you set the pivot in the bottom holes.

Nope, I don't think they're in Canada. That's the kind of thing I wanted to make out of wood.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 09:37 PM
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Barring that, cut a 8' 2x4 into (2) 16s and (2) 32s. Screw the 16s vertically to the front wall, 6" apart. Mate the 32s on the floor to the ends of the 16s.

Even more important than the front tire is the tie-downs. I use 1/2" eyebolts thru the floor with nylon stopnuts and fender washers. These need to be as far forward as possible, and use ratcheting straps around the engine guard.

Any chance the dealer would just strap it back on the shipping pallet for you?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Teachu2
Even more important than the front tire is the tie-downs. I use 1/2" eyebolts thru the floor with nylon stopnuts and fender washers. These need to be as far forward as possible, and use ratcheting straps around the engine guard.

Any chance the dealer would just strap it back on the shipping pallet for you?
So if I'm reading you right, you don't tie it down from the handle bars? Fairing probably gets in the way huh? Funny thing, yesterday I bought 10 1/2" eyebolts with fender washers and bolted them along the floor evenly spaced all along each side of the truck box.

Good idea about the shipping pallet. I could give them a call and ask.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Thirdup
My 07 Ultra: Floor-to-bare fender tip (Not the bumper) = 20"

My fender (with bumper) sticks out about 3/4 an inch beynd the tire

Sounds like the dealer had it right, probably no misunderstanding. Thanks for this info, it's helpful.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 10:01 PM
  #18  
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Yep, you really can't get to the handlebars. They come from the factory strapped by the engine guard, so that's the way I tie mine. The eyebolts only need to be about 24" apart, as you need to tie between the frame and the fairing brackets. Wider apart eyebolts will pull out on the fairing brackets, which probably isn't the best idea. I hook the ratchet end to the eyebolt and take the loose end around the engine guard, then back to the eyebolt. That eliminates the need for a soft-tie, and eliminates two more sewn ends to fail.

If the bed is slick, you might need to screw a block on each side of the rear wheel.

The factory uses steel pallets and places a cardboard box over the top. If the dealer will loan/give you the pallet, that would be slick.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 10:46 PM
  #19  
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The truck has a wood floor. So I can screw down a couple 2x4's as you suggested to hold the front tire in place. I'll do the same for the rear as well, except I don't know how wide the rear tire is, do you?

I just got back from the hardware store and now have two 1/2 " eyebolts. The other ones I bought wern't 1/2" `but smaller like 5/16".

So I should put them 24" apart, 12" on each side of the center line of the bike? And how far forward? In line with the front of the tire? Or maybe even the axel?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 10:54 PM
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As long as they're even with or in front of the axle, you'll be fine. 12" on each side of center is good. The rear tire is wider on the '09s, I'd allow 7-8". You can always take the screwgun and do them on the spot.
 
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