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Ran the wires inside the bars, very tight but I was successful. After riding for a few hundred miles, I am so glad that I changed the bars out. You would be amazed at how much better my posture is with this little change.
Yea, ran the wiring inside the bar. Piece of cake. Make sure you label everything and carefully remove the pins. It can be done without extending the wiring harness, but if I remember right, the harness ends up closer to the triple tree cover than actually inside the nacelle. It was alot easier than I thought it would be.
Now I could be wrong, but I am asuming this was your 1st time changing your handlebars and it took you 3 hours! Why is the stealership telling me it's a 6 hour job and they do this daily? They "tried" to give me an out the door price of $850.00. I had to show them in their book I didn't have to change the wires!! Now it's down to $650.00. I have found the bars for around $170.00 delivered. As soon as I work up enough nerves to do it........
Last year I put the 503's on my RK. Very comfortable for me. They are the Knuckle Bars. I'm 6-4 and my arms are more stretched out now. Way better than the Police bars that came on it.
Do you find yourself having to lean forward for the bars? I have been thinking of getting these bars also but want to make sure I can still kick back against the backrest for those long cruises.
Do you find yourself having to lean forward for the bars?
Not at all, but I am 6-4. I guess it would depend how tall you are and where your seat puts you. These are the most comfortable bars I've had in years.
I want a new set of bars in the worse way, its just that I hate to spend $170-$200 and find that I don't like them or worse yet, like the chitty stock ones better[&:]
These stock bars suck, plain and simple. After 25-30 miles burning between the shoulder blades and neck. I know everyone is build a little bit different. I am 6' and 170 lbs. The stock bars actually feel OK as far as position goes (with stock seat). Does anyone have the Chubby 508's that sort of fits the same 6' frame of mine??And how do they feel with or w/o a stock seat?? Thanks in advance
I want a new set of bars in the worse way, its just that I hate to spend $170-$200 and find that I don't like them or worse yet, like the chitty stock ones better
Bruce we are in the same boat. I went to the dealership to sit on their seat and handlebar deal but I found they don't have many handlebars in stock. [>:]
I will tell you one thing that worked. The dealerships in my area have tons of used Road Kings. I sat on them, found what I liked and pulled out a tape measure. Now I'm looking for bars close to those dimmensions that are 1.25".
Plus I'm looking for some extra cash! Might as well do the braided cables, grips, switch housing, and all the other stuff in the area!
My dealer also was in the same ballpark with pricing. That is why I chose to do it myself. There is plenty of help here on the forum to get you through it!
ORIGINAL: Manish_Hawg
Yea, ran the wiring inside the bar. Piece of cake. Make sure you label everything and carefully remove the pins. It can be done without extending the wiring harness, but if I remember right, the harness ends up closer to the triple tree cover than actually inside the nacelle. It was alot easier than I thought it would be.
Now I could be wrong, but I am asuming this was your 1st time changing your handlebars and it took you 3 hours! Why is the stealership telling me it's a 6 hour job and they do this daily? They "tried" to give me an out the door price of $850.00. I had to show them in their book I didn't have to change the wires!! Now it's down to $650.00. I have found the bars for around $170.00 delivered. As soon as I work up enough nerves to do it........
Rod,
It didn't take me 3 hours. It took me about 10-13 hours on and off. That included internal wiring, swapping out all the cables with stainless, and chroming over the controls. Alot of this time was spent just taking stuff apart. For instance, to do the clutch cable I had to remove the right side exhaust. Generally you have to remove the passing lamps, nacelle, etc. To do the throttle cables I had to partially remove the gas tank, and remove the air intake. I also spent significant time going back and forth in the manual, and this forum, and cleaning and waxing parts you can't usually get to. I would say if I was going to do this project again I might be able to do it in eight hours. To do just the bars, though, shouldn't take that long. I would estimate to do just the bars, same cables, internal wiring, a novice like me would be looking at 4 hours give or take.
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