Touring Models Road King, Road King Custom, Road King Classic, Road Glide, Street Glide, Electra Glide, Electra Glide Classic, and Electra Glide Ultra Classic bikes.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

TourPak Drilling Help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 09:38 PM
  #1  
OldDog's Avatar
OldDog
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Chattanooga, TN
Default TourPak Drilling Help

Guys, New EGC is in. Question on drilling late model plastic tourpak/saddlebag material. When I have installed airplane plexi, I use a special drillbit. A regular ground bit can/will crack the plexi. On the EGC, some of the holes are called out at 1/2 inch(plexi drill not available that big). Can someone help me with their success. thx.
 
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 09:41 PM
  #2  
Scubadog's Avatar
Scubadog
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 162
Likes: 3
Default

I place blue masking tape over the area to be drilled. Make my mark on the tape and use a good sharp carbide bit. Never had a problem.
 
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 09:43 PM
  #3  
jberg's Avatar
jberg
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 37
From: Rockland County, NY
Default

Drilled mine today. Material appears to be ABS. No cracking in my case though I recommend starting with a smaller hole and increasing in steps to reduce stress.
 
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 09:43 PM
  #4  
pab's Avatar
pab
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
From: Brentwood, Tennessee
Default

+1 what scubadog said
 
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 09:53 PM
  #5  
iclick's Avatar
iclick
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Default

Originally Posted by OldDog
Guys, New EGC is in. Question on drilling late model plastic tourpak/saddlebag material. When I have installed airplane plexi, I use a special drillbit. A regular ground bit can/will crack the plexi. On the EGC, some of the holes are called out at 1/2 inch(plexi drill not available that big). Can someone help me with their success. thx.
I drilled my chopped TP to install a lid rack using a regular drill bit. The instructions said to use masking tape on the painted side to keep the paint from chipping, but I didn't do that. As for drilling, it specified to drill a 1/16" starter hole, then follow that up with a 9/32". There was no specification as to the type of drill bit used, and I had no problems at all either with the paint or plastic.
 
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 09:58 PM
  #6  
Overdoo's Avatar
Overdoo
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 673
Likes: 4
From: Charlotte NC
Default Drilling Plastic

Standard drills have a very positive rake to the inside cutting edges of the drill point. This is what usually causes drills to "suck in" as they are drilling or breaking through the other side of soft materials (plastic,brass,wood). You can completely eliminate this by taking the point face and making it a little negative. This will cause the drill to not want to suck in while drilling soft material. Just take the drill and and hit the lip face on a grinding wheel making it negative, both sides, and your problem will go away. The drill will seem like its a little harder going in but that's only because the drill is not being pulled into the material. Drilling a pilot hole will not make a drill with a very positive rake not want to suck in to the material. Good luck!
 
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 10:08 PM
  #7  
EasternSP's Avatar
EasternSP
Seasoned HDF Member
Veteran: Marine Corps
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 30,860
Likes: 32,711
From: King George, VA
Default

I used drills and hack saw blade to cut out the brake light holes in my tour pac when I did the brake light install a couple years ago. No problem with cracking.
 
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 10:09 PM
  #8  
Zimbob's Avatar
Zimbob
Stellar HDF Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,906
Likes: 11
From: Grottoes Va.
Default

Originally Posted by Overdoo
Standard drills have a very positive rake to the inside cutting edges of the drill point. This is what usually causes drills to "suck in" as they are drilling or breaking through the other side of soft materials (plastic,brass,wood). You can completely eliminate this by taking the point face and making it a little negative. This will cause the drill to not want to suck in while drilling soft material. Just take the drill and and hit the lip face on a grinding wheel making it negative, both sides, and your problem will go away. The drill will seem like its a little harder going in but that's only because the drill is not being pulled into the material. Drilling a pilot hole will not make a drill with a very positive rake not want to suck in to the material. Good luck!
Excelent suggestion, just don't go too negitive on the cutting edge and try to keep the sides the same length of the drill will cut oversize. Also try flatten out the point, this works good in soft material, and try to keep the cutting edge to the side of the drill smooth, it will give a smoother hole. Sorry, just some machinist tricks there.
 
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 10:10 PM
  #9  
Hawgnut's Avatar
Hawgnut
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 328
Likes: 1
From: South Central Virginia
Default

I taped the bottom of the rack so not to scratch up the paint, placed it over the trunk where I wanted it and then lifted each corner and placed blue tape under the rack posts. readjust as needed and then took a pen and traced around the rack posts on to the blue tape and drilled out the holes like mentioned earlier,start small step drill to final opening. I didnt have any cracks worked great
 
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 10:10 PM
  #10  
Javawave's Avatar
Javawave
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Default

I used standard bits on mine and didnt have a problem. I also believe they are ABS. I did use the masking tape though.
 
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:28 AM.