TourPak Drilling Help
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 293
Likes: 2
From: Edmonton, Alberta
I've posted this before but....
Use masking tape to mark the location of the holes. Pilot drill with a VERY, VERY SMALL BIT (don't worry, it won't crack). Use the appropriate size bit..........but spin your drill in REVERSE. DO NOT torque on it, drill with very little pressure. The only part to be careful of is when the bit is about to break through the other side, it will try to "bite" the whole enchilada, so ease up even more on the pressure and speed and you'll be fine.
I spent years drilling holes on various autobody parts (god, I hate Saturns), and we found out the hard way about a bunch of plastic/fibreglass parts and cracks. Go easy and don't panic. Just do not push too hard.
Use masking tape to mark the location of the holes. Pilot drill with a VERY, VERY SMALL BIT (don't worry, it won't crack). Use the appropriate size bit..........but spin your drill in REVERSE. DO NOT torque on it, drill with very little pressure. The only part to be careful of is when the bit is about to break through the other side, it will try to "bite" the whole enchilada, so ease up even more on the pressure and speed and you'll be fine.
I spent years drilling holes on various autobody parts (god, I hate Saturns), and we found out the hard way about a bunch of plastic/fibreglass parts and cracks. Go easy and don't panic. Just do not push too hard.
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 213
Likes: 2
From: Port Orchard, Washington
I taped the area to be drilled & used a Brad point drill bit (Brad point bits won't drift when starting the hole). Using light pressure, start the hole on one side & as soon as the tip of the bit comes through the other side, switch sides. Finish the hole from the second side, there's no "tear out" that way.
Gregm
Gregm
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Chattanooga, TN
Thanks for the pointers. Like the brad point and the reverse idea. I think I'll run a couple ofr practice holes in the middle of the TP light cutouts. By the way, the plastic drills from LP Aero work great; but a little pricey.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 802
Likes: 2
From: Here and There
Guys, New EGC is in. Question on drilling late model plastic tourpak/saddlebag material. When I have installed airplane plexi, I use a special drillbit. A regular ground bit can/will crack the plexi. On the EGC, some of the holes are called out at 1/2 inch(plexi drill not available that big). Can someone help me with their success. thx.
That's the way I do it. And let me tell you, if I removed all my chrome, the plastic would look like "swiss cheese".
Supporter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,196
Likes: 10
From: Shenandoah, TX
As a macheniest,I drill hole all the time in all sorts of metal and plastic.For plastic,use a step drill. I have 1/8 to 1/2 and 1/4 to 7/8. They work great and leave very little burr.They are single flute, so they don't grab or brake the plastic or lexan or plexsi glass. You can buy them at Sears, Home Depot,Lowes, even Harbor Freight.
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Imperial, MO
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Tourer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
From: Saskatchewan, Canada
What do people use to seal out the water???that is do you put silicone in between the rack and the tourpack...I do not have mine yet...oick it up next weekend so not sure if they come with something or if it is a rubber washer that does the trick????thanks!
