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New 95 build

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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 12:08 PM
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Default New 95 build

05 Ultra in shop for a 95 build with 204 cams. When the snow goes away..Whats the theory on break in..Ride it hard, baby it..What...The rest of the bike has 25000 miles on it. When I parked it the oil useage was alomost none and would love my new build to use no oil..Anyone have what they would say the best break in is on a new build.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 12:17 PM
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Find a long stretch of of road, put the bike into 3rd and accelerate/decelerate from 30 to 60 about ten times and the break-in will be done.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 12:20 PM
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There are lots of theories on breaking in an engine! Your shop will have their recommendations, when you collect it, which is the theory to follow.

Let's hope the snow goes soon, so you can let us know how it feels. Best of luck.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 12:34 PM
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Put about 50 easy miles on it and change the oil. Then go out and work that motor. Don't lug it or rev it to the rev limiter, just make it work. Do this 'til you get about 500 mi. then change the oil again. You're good to go. Wait until you have about 1000-1500 mi. before you dyno tune, don't risk it before that. Your motor needs to work to seat the rings properly, just don't abuse it with speed shifts and such.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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We almost have 3 different opinions here. I am facing the same situation. My build is almost complete, except I used Andrews 37G cams and street ported heads. It was the plan to dyno it as soon as it was done, but now I'm concerned. Will it hurt my motor to run it in a de-tuned state that long?
Marsh
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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Just do what the man says who built your motor, then you should have no issues. If you do have a problem, you can always go back to him and say i did what you told me to do. Now fix it. To many theorys here on how to break an engine in, so if you ask your builder you cant go wrong. GOOD LUCK
 

Last edited by hpfatboy; Jan 22, 2009 at 01:22 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 01:27 PM
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I personally subscribe to the method Petemac described. I will be using this as soon as I finish my new 103" build. They key to this method is to go 100% throttle from 30 to 60 mph and then 0% throttle (with no brake use) from 60 to 30mph. This allows maximum cylinder pressure to push the rings out against the cylinder walls. This is the ring seating procedure for this type of break in. After that is done, just ride it like normal. Don't go banging shifts or bouncing it off the rev limiter. Change the oil after 50 miles with dino 20-50. Then change again after 500 miles again with dino oil. After that, oil change at normal intervals and you can go to synthetic oil of your choice.

Just my opinion.
Zach
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Biggzed
I personally subscribe to the method Petemac described. I will be using this as soon as I finish my new 103" build. They key to this method is to go 100% throttle from 30 to 60 mph and then 0% throttle (with no brake use) from 60 to 30mph. This allows maximum cylinder pressure to push the rings out against the cylinder walls. This is the ring seating procedure for this type of break in. After that is done, just ride it like normal. Don't go banging shifts or bouncing it off the rev limiter. Change the oil after 50 miles with dino 20-50. Then change again after 500 miles again with dino oil. After that, oil change at normal intervals and you can go to synthetic oil of your choice.

Just my opinion.
Zach
I blew out on a new S&S 107 a few months ago. There was no mention of doing any such thing with it! The ignition system was pre-programmed to prevent over-revving the engine for the first 24 hours of running time, so I would have been unable to follow that theory. Now I have a decent mileage up I can rev it as I please.

S&S has been around for fifty years and I guess they know a thing or two about breaking engines, in all ways! Do what your engine builder suggests you do.
 
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