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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I just put on SE 103 cylinders and flat top pistons with Andrews 37H cams. What do you guys recommend for break in? I have been told not to jump on it until 500 miles, then get it dyno tuned.
I just put on SE 103 cylinders and flat top pistons with Andrews 37H cams. What do you guys recommend for break in? I have been told not to jump on it until 500 miles, then get it dyno tuned.
Any feedback is appreciated.
Take it up to this local shop in Burien and ask for Tim when you arrive. He is an expert with the break in of newly built motors. He may ask you to leave it with him for a day or even two if he cant quite get it to the speeds he prefers for break in. Once he is satisfied that the build is solid and it is ready for his customer to ride he will call you and even ride it to your front door.
Just be sure to read the fine print in the contract that states:
Tim is not responsible for any cracks, dings, motor explosions or tire replacements upon the return of the bike. Owner is advised to leave at your own risk. Please initial here________
I mean hey....ya did say "Any feedback is appreciated"
Your first 50 miles or so is just to be sure everything is tightened down and all oil lines are open and clear. The next 500 or so is to let the rings, seals and valves seat properly. After that, ya just do a few hundred more miles to be sure the bike is running fine then put it to the torture chamber for the dyno tune.
FIRST conduct the heat cycles. First fire up, have it idle with choke out for 1 min. Then when it's completely cool, do it again for 2 min. This will take down any spots of higher contact between the ring and cylinder wall to prevent microwelding. On the third warm up, just warm it up for about 5 min, then shut her down. For the maiden voyage, I prefer in town riding for the first 50. Nothing over 35, alot of stop-go, accelerate mildly then engine brake, etc... After the 50, hit the county roads and rural highways for the next 50. Same thing, only slightly more aggressive. Stay below 70, but accelerate a bit harder (NO WFO), lots of rollons from 40-60, then engine brake from 60 to 40. If you stay under 4 grand you're fine. After the first 100, take her out on the interstate and vary your speed. Not 40 to 70, but go about 50 miles between 65 and 75. Just stay in the right lane. The key to this whole thing is not keeping the engine at the same speed for more than a few minutes.
I did this on my 1200 converted Sporty and with the SE bolt-in cams had 195 psi cranking compression and no oil loss.
FIRST conduct the heat cycles. First fire up, have it idle with choke out for 1 min. Then when it's completely cool, do it again for 2 min. This will take down any spots of higher contact between the ring and cylinder wall to prevent microwelding. On the third warm up, just warm it up for about 5 min, then shut her down. For the maiden voyage, I prefer in town riding for the first 50. Nothing over 35, alot of stop-go, accelerate mildly then engine brake, etc... After the 50, hit the county roads and rural highways for the next 50. Same thing, only slightly more aggressive. Stay below 70, but accelerate a bit harder (NO WFO), lots of rollons from 40-60, then engine brake from 60 to 40. If you stay under 4 grand you're fine. After the first 100, take her out on the interstate and vary your speed. Not 40 to 70, but go about 50 miles between 65 and 75. Just stay in the right lane. The key to this whole thing is not keeping the engine at the same speed for more than a few minutes.
I did this on my 1200 converted Sporty and with the SE bolt-in cams had 195 psi cranking compression and no oil loss.
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