Winter Upgrade Cam
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Novice
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Alliance, Ohio
Winter Upgrade Cam
I am thinking about swapping out the cam and am looking for recommendations.
I have a 2008 Electra Glide Classic with Jackpot slipons, Fuelmoto air cleaner and Power Commander III. I need some more power to help pull me and my wife in sixth gear. Weight watchers is out so be nice.
I think the fuel milage would improve as if I stayed out of the throttle.
I don't need anything radical maybe more mostly on low and mid range with a little on top when riding solo.
If anyone has made the change and has a powercommander where did you get the map or did you go on the dyno? I haven't checked with Jamie at Fuelmoto.
Also I've never had my Harley apart (my first Harley) but am pretty handy with tools. Anything tricky or special if I try the swap on my own? Is it hard to get the push rods adjusted (when using adjustable)??
Any other recommendations?
Thanks for your help.
I have a 2008 Electra Glide Classic with Jackpot slipons, Fuelmoto air cleaner and Power Commander III. I need some more power to help pull me and my wife in sixth gear. Weight watchers is out so be nice.
I think the fuel milage would improve as if I stayed out of the throttle.
I don't need anything radical maybe more mostly on low and mid range with a little on top when riding solo.
If anyone has made the change and has a powercommander where did you get the map or did you go on the dyno? I haven't checked with Jamie at Fuelmoto.
Also I've never had my Harley apart (my first Harley) but am pretty handy with tools. Anything tricky or special if I try the swap on my own? Is it hard to get the push rods adjusted (when using adjustable)??
Any other recommendations?
Thanks for your help.
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
From: Northern Oklahoma
There was just a thread about the SE255 cams and sixth gear going up mountains with the OL on the back, do a search. The OP said they made a good improvement in sixth gear. But i liked someones comment, "Just down shift" LOL it was funny. 
Banned
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 581
Likes: 0
From: Langley
Andrews 26H ~ get a dynotune.
* [1] Get the rear tire off the ground and the transmission in 5th gear. Install the two intake pushrods only. Do NOT extend them.
* [2] While holding the front intake pushrod against the lifter, roll the engine until the front intake pushrod is as high as it will go. This will insure that the front intake is full open on the camshaft, and the rear is fully down on the camshaft.
* [3] Adjust the rear intake pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the rear intake pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [4] While holding the rear intake pushrod roll the engine until the rear intake pushrod is all the way up. The rear intake valve is now full open and the front is fully closed.
* [5] Adjust the front intake pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the front intake pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [6] Install the two exhaust pushrods. Do NOT extend them.
* [7] While holding the front exhaust pushrod against the lifter, roll the engine until the front exhaust pushrod is as high as it will go. This will insure that the front exhaust is full open on the camshaft and the rear is fully closed.
* [8] Adjust the rear exhaust pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the rear exhaust pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [9] While holding the rear exhaust pushrod roll the engine until the rear exhaust pushrod is all the way up. The rear exhaust valve is now full open and the front is fully closed.
* [10] Adjust the front exhaust pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the front exhaust pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [1] Get the rear tire off the ground and the transmission in 5th gear. Install the two intake pushrods only. Do NOT extend them.
* [2] While holding the front intake pushrod against the lifter, roll the engine until the front intake pushrod is as high as it will go. This will insure that the front intake is full open on the camshaft, and the rear is fully down on the camshaft.
* [3] Adjust the rear intake pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the rear intake pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [4] While holding the rear intake pushrod roll the engine until the rear intake pushrod is all the way up. The rear intake valve is now full open and the front is fully closed.
* [5] Adjust the front intake pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the front intake pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [6] Install the two exhaust pushrods. Do NOT extend them.
* [7] While holding the front exhaust pushrod against the lifter, roll the engine until the front exhaust pushrod is as high as it will go. This will insure that the front exhaust is full open on the camshaft and the rear is fully closed.
* [8] Adjust the rear exhaust pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the rear exhaust pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [9] While holding the rear exhaust pushrod roll the engine until the rear exhaust pushrod is all the way up. The rear exhaust valve is now full open and the front is fully closed.
* [10] Adjust the front exhaust pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the front exhaust pushrod but there is no up and down play.
Last edited by skydoc; Jan 29, 2009 at 11:58 AM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,109
Likes: 37
From: Boise Idaho
My 07 is in the shop right now have a set of HeadQuarters 500s installed and a new dyno tune. Can wait to see how it runs and sound after this upgrade.
I have a differant set than you (Fat Cat 2-1, Big Sucker, SERT) but I will post the dyno results when I get them.
I have a differant set than you (Fat Cat 2-1, Big Sucker, SERT) but I will post the dyno results when I get them.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,939
Likes: 3
From: TX
I agree with the HQ500 recommendation, but the 255 is not bad either.
As pushrod adjustment goes, I do both Intake & Exhaust of front cylinder, wait 20~30 minutes and repeat on the rear.
Before installing the pushrods (applies to both front & rear cylinder), simply ensure that BOTH lifters, for the cylinder you are adjusting, are at their lowest point ("on the heel of the lobes"). This is easily done by removing both plugs, putting the bike in the highest gear (5th or 6th), and rotating the rear wheel while holding your finger tips on the top of the two lifters. You will easily feel when they are BOTH all the way down. You will have approx 1/3 of a tire rotation before you begin to feel one of the lifters begin to move. At this point rotate the wheel the opposite direction until the other lifter begind to move. Then, rotate the wheel back in the original direction 1/2 the distance to where you felt movement on the 1st lifter.
Adjust both, BE SURE to lock the jam nuts, install both pushrod tube retainers, and then wait out the remainder of your 20~30 minutes and repeat on the other cylinder.
I know that may sound convoluted, but it's really quite simple. I never claimed to be a tech writer....
As pushrod adjustment goes, I do both Intake & Exhaust of front cylinder, wait 20~30 minutes and repeat on the rear.
Before installing the pushrods (applies to both front & rear cylinder), simply ensure that BOTH lifters, for the cylinder you are adjusting, are at their lowest point ("on the heel of the lobes"). This is easily done by removing both plugs, putting the bike in the highest gear (5th or 6th), and rotating the rear wheel while holding your finger tips on the top of the two lifters. You will easily feel when they are BOTH all the way down. You will have approx 1/3 of a tire rotation before you begin to feel one of the lifters begin to move. At this point rotate the wheel the opposite direction until the other lifter begind to move. Then, rotate the wheel back in the original direction 1/2 the distance to where you felt movement on the 1st lifter.
Adjust both, BE SURE to lock the jam nuts, install both pushrod tube retainers, and then wait out the remainder of your 20~30 minutes and repeat on the other cylinder.
I know that may sound convoluted, but it's really quite simple. I never claimed to be a tech writer....
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 10,602
Likes: 721
From: Bellevue, NE
I agree with the HQ500 recommendation, but the 255 is not bad either.
As pushrod adjustment goes, I do both Intake & Exhaust of front cylinder, wait 20~30 minutes and repeat on the rear.
Before installing the pushrods (applies to both front & rear cylinder), simply ensure that BOTH lifters, for the cylinder you are adjusting, are at their lowest point ("on the heel of the lobes"). This is easily done by removing both plugs, putting the bike in the highest gear (5th or 6th), and rotating the rear wheel while holding your finger tips on the top of the two lifters. You will easily feel when they are BOTH all the way down. You will have approx 1/3 of a tire rotation before you begin to feel one of the lifters begin to move. At this point rotate the wheel the opposite direction until the other lifter begind to move. Then, rotate the wheel back in the original direction 1/2 the distance to where you felt movement on the 1st lifter.
Adjust both, BE SURE to lock the jam nuts, install both pushrod tube retainers, and then wait out the remainder of your 20~30 minutes and repeat on the other cylinder.
I know that may sound convoluted, but it's really quite simple. I never claimed to be a tech writer....
As pushrod adjustment goes, I do both Intake & Exhaust of front cylinder, wait 20~30 minutes and repeat on the rear.
Before installing the pushrods (applies to both front & rear cylinder), simply ensure that BOTH lifters, for the cylinder you are adjusting, are at their lowest point ("on the heel of the lobes"). This is easily done by removing both plugs, putting the bike in the highest gear (5th or 6th), and rotating the rear wheel while holding your finger tips on the top of the two lifters. You will easily feel when they are BOTH all the way down. You will have approx 1/3 of a tire rotation before you begin to feel one of the lifters begin to move. At this point rotate the wheel the opposite direction until the other lifter begind to move. Then, rotate the wheel back in the original direction 1/2 the distance to where you felt movement on the 1st lifter.
Adjust both, BE SURE to lock the jam nuts, install both pushrod tube retainers, and then wait out the remainder of your 20~30 minutes and repeat on the other cylinder.
I know that may sound convoluted, but it's really quite simple. I never claimed to be a tech writer....
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,939
Likes: 3
From: TX
Lifters are always an option. It really depends on mileage and potential wear patterns on the roller(s).
The 21H will come on a bit earlier, but fade a LOT sooner.
The really cool thing about the 500 is that it's a great bolt-in, AND it's even better if you beef things up later: displacement, compression, heads, etc....
The 21H will come on a bit earlier, but fade a LOT sooner.
The really cool thing about the 500 is that it's a great bolt-in, AND it's even better if you beef things up later: displacement, compression, heads, etc....
