UPDATE #3--Paint Project--Etc.
First pic is of the sanded, but new, Ultra TP bottom, and sanded, but new, TP lid. The bottom was gutted of all parts, lights, and harnesses as described in an earlier thread.
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<A If you want step-by-step instructions on how to remove everything in the bottom of the TP, get a copy of the instructions for side light kit HD sells as an accessory for King TP's. As for removing the Ultra light bar, remove the clips at the back of the each light pod (I used a large screwdriver as a lever to back them out), unscrew the nuts, and using a hair dryer to loosen the caulk, take the screwdriver and run it along the seam between the light bar sockets and TP at the cut-outs. It's tedious, and sometimes slow-going, but eventually the light bar comes out. Thanks to the instructions from ridetimetechnology.com for use with their replacement LED brakelight assemblies, the red lenses came out relatively easily. Use of the hair dryer to loosen the windshield sealer/adhesive is essential IMO.
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Those are the nearly new, but sanded, saddlebag bottoms under the light bar. The bar is going to be painted to match the TP. Masking the lenses would be very difficult, at least for me, given the fluting.
The forks came out easily. The SM has good step-by-step directions. I purchased a neat socket to do the fork cap bolts (35mm) and took about 20 minutes to remove the front wheel, fairing cap, outer fairing, and skirt. Bike is "disappearing" as more and more parts are removed.
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The socket is not the only tool for the job, but it's very, very good.
Another excellent tool is the scissor jack placed under the bike to raise the front wheel slightly while the bike is on the lift. The bike is extremely stable on the jack and made it a simple operation to remove the wheel.
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The gas tank came off. Being an '04, mine has the crossover line, so draining it is a PITA, even after syphoning gas. I'm going to replace it with the quick disconnect version.
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Since we're going to the trouble to paint the bike, decided to cover the bolt head on the lower portion of the rear fender. HD covers this bolt head with a plastic stick-on of various types on Street Glides, Road Glides, and Road King Customs. I used my Dremel with wire brush attachments to clean out the paint and open an area for the Bondo-Glass that will be the primary coverage material.
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The bolt area and approximately 1" around it were cleared of paint and primer, then the surrounding area was feathered with 220 grit wet/dry paper.
The bolt head is high, so the Dremel wire brush was switched to a coarse grinding tool, and the bolt head ground down (carefully, with numerous checks to avoid removing too much material) to where the squeegee wouldn't hit it in any direction when following the fender contours.
After mixing the Bondo-Glass (short fiber fiberglass), the area was covered and allowed to dry.
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The cure time for the Bondo-Glass was about 20 minutes and a file was used to remove some high spots and remove some material. I've sanded the area with 60 grit paper and applied a thin coat of Bondo glaze, which is where work stopped for the week-end.
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It was a good week-end of work and, frankly, I was happy to be doing something other than sanding. The fork lowers are going to the local dealer to have their guts swapped into the chrome lowers which will be reinstalled along with the front tire, Brembo rotors and calipers, and the brake lines connected for a test fit. (The '04 has the cartridge which I don't want to fool with, especially with new chrome lowers. I'm considering simply buying the '06 parts and installing them myself--need to check pricing.)
With the front wheel installed, the scissor jack will be moved to allow the back of the bike to be raised so the rear fender can be removed.
I'll post some more pics as work progresses, and try to remember to take plenty of pics of the inner fairing removal since that seems to be a popular topic. I did it once before when installing the current, painted inner and the spun aluminum gauges. And the SM is all anyone would need to do the job; but, hey, everybody likes pictures--me included.

Personal note: I enjoy riding my bike a lot; but, I also get a kick out of working on my bike. In fact, I enjoyed spending this week-end, and the past 3 or 4 week-ends, working on the bike rather than riding it--but that's probably because in Metro Atlanta we get a ton of good riding weather, so I'm not missing limited riding opportunities.
Should be painting in about two weeks--now we're talking.
If you have any specific questions about any of this stuff, shoot me a PM.Carl
EDIT: Prior to painting, the pinstriping visible on the tour pak and saddlebag bottoms was completely removed by more sanding. This was done because my painter told me that although the visible stripes were smooth with the saddlebag surface (at least to touch) they needed to be completely removed or they'd be visible as a "ghost" stripe beneath the newly applied paint. Don't know if this is true or not, but the bags turned out perfectly with no visible stripe.
Last edited by Harleypingman; Jan 17, 2011 at 04:33 PM.
Haven't decided on the quick disconnect, yet.
Lonewolf, the work shirt looks better from the back
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Q Hog, you can do anything involved with this project with a Service Manual and basic tools. By the way, I was born and raised in South Plainfield so I'm a former Garden Stater.
Props to my best bud, "Kevin from HQ", for taking on the front fender--a project of its own with welding the brackets, filling the rivet holes, etc.
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Dawg, thanks for the link. I'm 99% sure that's the one I'll get. Can stainless line be used with the quick disconnect? If so, I'd cut my HD stainless, retain the chrome fittings at the tank, and install the quick disconnect.








