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How to Bleed ABS at home

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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 07:25 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Akitakoi
So is there a safe way to get the rotors off to polish them and put them back on? Can I still just drop the wheel out like for changing a tire? Guess I'll be getting a manual for this one.
TIA
Removing the calipers from the forks does not require bleeding the brake system as long as you do not remove the brake line. You can put rags around the calipers and tie wrap them back onto the frame.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 08:11 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by FastHarley
Removing the calipers from the forks does not require bleeding the brake system as long as you do not remove the brake line. You can put rags around the calipers and tie wrap them back onto the frame.
OK, thank you.
That's what I was hoping to hear.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:34 PM
  #13  
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Thank you for the responses I will be taking the bike to another dealer I guess
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 01:06 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by 1Harleyrdr
Thank you for the responses I will be taking the bike to another dealer I guess
I don't really know that you need to do that. It sounds like your wanting to swap out a line? This thread got me thinking (dangerous at times) because I am doing a handle bar swap and changing to braided front brake line on an 08 ABS model myself. After reading your original post and some of the replies I contacted the service department at my dealer. I was told that if all I was doing was swapping out the front line, that I "should not have to have a digital tech service performed." Further, the 2008 service manual states on page 1-30:

"After bleeding the brake system on ABS equipped motor-cycles, confirm that the brake lines are properly connected if either the ABS module or more than one brake line was removed. To accomplish this, install master cylinder reservoir cover, connect motorcycle to DIGITAL TECHNICIAN ll and perform "ABS Service" procedure in the "Toolbox" menu."

Key words being "if" and "or". Based on that and what the service dept. told me at my dealer, I'm going to give it a shot myself and see what happens. Worst case I'll have to have the dealer put it on the DT for $80.00. What's that work out to per hour if it only takes 30 seconds? I'm in the wrong line of work for sure. I know, I know, gotta pay for the Digital Tech....not paying for what they do.... paying for what they know.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 10:51 PM
  #15  
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I replaced the line from th efrom break lever to the ABS module and just flicked the brake lever for about 15 minutes to remove air and the brake is fine.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 11:09 PM
  #16  
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I had to replace a copper washer where the brake line met one of the front calipers (it was leaking). I bled it like I would do a normal brake job....I never had the abs line come on, brakes aren't spongy and it feels like it should!
 
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 11:16 PM
  #17  
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do any of you guys know ware i can pick up an extended abs brake line for 19 inch apes for my o8 electra glide pulling my hair out trying to track one down thanks 2fast4u
 
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 02:43 AM
  #18  
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i replaced my front brake line and the line from the abs module. all i did was flick the front brake handle for awhile and everything worked fine no problems at all. i have cyclesmith 16 in. apes and i used a + 10 clutch cable worked out great.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 02:59 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by rbtgold
..out of curiousity, can an abs be home bled if nothing was replaced??? (my 09 ultra front brake feels spongey).
You can bleed the crap out of 'em and it doesn't help, it's the nature of the beast. The other homebrew method is to zip tie the brake handle down as tight as you can get it and leave it overnight. Been there, done that. You'll still have a bit of a spongey feel with the first pull. Everyone I know with H-D ABS has been trying to firm up that first pull to no avail. For once "they all do that" really does apply.

TL
 
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 08:19 AM
  #20  
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Just did this 10 days ago.

I replaced the entire front brake line with a H-D modular Diamondback line (from master cylinder to calipers). Bled it just like I would have with a regular bike. I've ridden around 1,500 miles since then, and the brake is a little spongy, but not bad. The ABS light doesn't come on, and the bike stops just fine.

The issue is getting all the air out of the ABS controller under the seat. I'm willing to bet that any air in the controller or lines has migrated to either the master cylinder or the calipers at this point, and that a standard bleed would cure the sponginess in the lever.

The local dealer tells me it's a 45 minute or so job to bleed the brakes with the Digital Technician. I think I'll try a standard bleed first.
 
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