Bagger Brace...

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Apr 1, 2009 | 06:21 AM

#11

2106HD

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Joined: Feb 2006

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Quote:

Originally Posted by oinker02

Yep, use anti-sieze on those little allen head screws that attach the brace to crossmember....Make sure you also coat the counter sunk holes too or you will never get them out once tightened properly.

The danged thang is so very precisly made that the countersunk allen head screws fit too well.

Please explain further. I have read before that this brace is hard to install, and the bolts don't seem to fit properly????

Apr 1, 2009 | 07:21 AM

#12

Dennis Murawski

Cruiser

Joined: Sep 2007

Posts: 207

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From: Dallas / Ft. Worth, Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2106HD

Please explain further. I have read before that this brace is hard to install, and the bolts don't seem to fit properly????

I just installed a Bagger Brace on my 2007 FLHT. Everything was an exact fit. The only caution is to make sure that you adjust the link length properly and not try to force the connecting bolt into the aluminum stay. The install instructions call for using Blue Locktite on the eleven crossmember screws. Others have suggested anti-seize. Does anyone know if the Blue Locktite will prevent seizing and allow the unit to be uninstalled if needed?

Apr 1, 2009 | 07:27 AM

#13

FX4

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Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 2,598

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From: Naples FL / Pine TWP PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2106HD

Please explain further. I have read before that this brace is hard to install, and the bolts don't seem to fit properly????

Quite the opposite. This thing is an easy install. Machined perfection.

Apr 1, 2009 | 07:34 AM

#14

rjmac53

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From: The Big Easy

Luv mine...

Apr 1, 2009 | 11:24 AM

#15

caymen8

Tourer

Joined: Feb 2008

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From: Denver, CO

Can it be installed with the bike just on the kick stand, or does it need to be jacked up?

Apr 1, 2009 | 11:28 AM

#16

Toe Knee

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Joined: Aug 2008

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the only thing about the directions that I questioned is that they tell you to adjust the support arm "while the bike is held upright and off the kick stand". I did that but there was absolutely no difference in adjustment from the bike being upright or on the stand.

THE only issues that I can ever foresee in installing this sucker is if you have a bike that has a beat up cross member on your frame behind the oil tank, you are gonna have to work to straighten it out. Second is that you have to remember that you are tightening the oil pan bolts into an aluminum engine case. You have to be careful that you don't OVER TIGHTEN.

one tip that comes to mind is to cut an old allen wrench so that it is straight. Use a tiny socket and ratchet. Just be sure that the allen wrench doesn't have the little "ball" on the end of it that you use in cases where the screw isn't 100% flat. Ya know, the thing that gives you a little angle of attack. That will snap right off and scare the hell out of you while you are tightening up the bolts. It has a "pucker factor" of 8. LOL

Apr 1, 2009 | 11:59 AM

#17

molsen

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Joined: Jul 2007

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From: Niagara Falls, NY

Quite easy to install did it on the stand. Took more than 1/2 hour, but I took my time. My x-member was straight some others on here did not have such luck, that took a little time if I remember correctly.

Apr 1, 2009 | 12:01 PM

#18

oinker02

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Joined: Jan 2009

Posts: 1,551

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 2106HD

Please explain further. I have read before that this brace is hard to install, and the bolts don't seem to fit properly????

I'll explain.....the countersink angle of the allen head screws EXACTLY matches the countersink angle drilled into the crossmember brace....that makes for a very effective contact surface area that prevents the screws from backing out....it is so effective that I actually stripped the allen head wrench holes in several bolts trying to get them out 10 minutes after install when I wanted to remove it do do some other things.

I strongly suggest you use anti-sieze on the screws and not lock tite because eventually the alum material will corrode and you will end up drilling all those little suckers out.

An alternative would be to redrill the countersink holes on the bottom plate at a steeper angle so that the screw heads only contacted at thier outermost diameter, then use blue locktite on their threads.