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Torx or Torx Plus for the primary?

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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:51 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by sgt1577
The first time mine came out they went in the trash. They were so tight I thought I'd never get them out. Replaced them with chrome allen heads!
Just curious Sgt., what size were the chrome allen heads (including thread pitch) you used to replace the T-27's for the primary? I rounded one of the T-27's off once (using a Torx 27) and don't want to go through that hassle again.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:10 AM
  #22  
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rounded my first one off too. my bit started twisting. took to the dealer and they used an impact torx to get it off and put in a new screw for me. didn't charge me and told me to be careful with them.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:18 AM
  #23  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hog-doc
Torx T-27. I have used one several times a day 5 days a week for the last 5 years and have NEVER had a head strip out. I would bet that those that have are using a T-25 by mistake.
This makes you an expert so your advice we should all consider highly...thanks.
Actually I'd say hog-doc is an expert. But to make a comment like above, you may not know his credentials.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #24  
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get a good t handle set its is a t27 on most of the bike-ride safe
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by parakiller
What do you mean by "chasing the threads"? And how about blue loctite? I am a loctite *****...I put it on my toast...
It's a good practice to chase the threads with either purpose built thread chasers or a tap and/or die. Particularly chromed, painted or powder coated parts. These parts often have plating or paint in the threads that can and will cause galling (or stripping) of the threads.
I use blue loctite on almost everything with a few exceptions such as the derby cover screws. When using loctite the threads of both the fastener and the threaded part HAVE to be clean (oil free) and dry for loctite to be effective no matter the color. Using fasteners of unlike metal - such as steel screws in an aluminum cover - causes corrosion ( there is a term for this but I'm blanking at the moment) and siezing. Antisieze or blue loctite keeps this from occurring.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 12:54 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by gary_montague
GM used to do a lot of things. Like invent the electric starter. I really think that once it is gone, and I think it will be, people will realize that the USA is less secure economically than before. If you look at the company closely, you will see that half of it is salaried people working in engineering, finance marketing etc. The idea that it is just a bunch of overpaid unskilled factory rats is not true. Once it is gone, the Japanese companies will fill the production end with workers assembling cars but the high paying jobs that require college will be in Japan. And that will be one more straw on our camels back.
One other thing to consider is if we ever go to war and need war vehicles and equiptment do we really want a company from another country to have access to all the plans for our military equiptment. US companies made many of the parts to support our soldiers in all the big wars and keep them safe. It amazes me how many in our society wants American companies to cease to exist.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2009 | 08:17 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Neckball
Actually I'd say hog-doc is an expert. But to make a comment like above, you may not know his credentials.

Actually its MASTER, but whos cares about that! I also use a 3/8" Aircat impact gun and Snap-On sockets to remove them so that bit contact is solid and straight, unlike trying to twist a ratchet on a fastner thats tight. I have had lots of bits break because Snap-Ons are hard, but they shear off clean and pop out of the screw head with a magnet and dont damage the screw.

Allen heads ESPECIALLY chrome ones dont hold ANYWHERE near the torque that a Torx head will.

But hey what do I know I just do this for a living!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 10:08 PM
  #28  
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My rant on torx , I went to go change the primary oil tonight and the torx in the derby were so tight that the torx bit broke, went and got my other one and it also broke ( the first one was Snap on the second Matco ) I ended up taking off the primary cover to try and heat them from the rear but I was out of gas. I ended up drilling them out and now I have to go to the dealer for a gasket and some allen bolts. Nothing like a simple job taking 2 hours and more money. A dealer did the 1000 mile service so they put them in to tight or didnt change the primary fluid. Just had to vent.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 07:07 AM
  #29  
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I also had 1 torx bolt on the primary that I broke my snap-on bit in. it started wanting to round. I had barely loosened all the other but couldn't get that one. I took it to dealer and stated the factory put that screw on too loose. they had a mechanic come out with an inpact driver (the kind you hit with hammer) and 1 little tap and the screw loosened. he put a new screw in it and I went home and changed the oil!
 
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