my 06 ultra did it from day one.my dealer rode mine,had the factory rep ride it.rep told me that i wasnt supposed to ride without my hands on the bars.the rep put a spring gauge on mine and it took less than 2lbs of pull to keep it straight,which is within harley specs.thats probably why the dealer wont,or cant correct it.my dealer acknowledged my problem,then told me that i could fix it myself,but since it was within specs,he couldnt.it is a fairly easy fix though.the front heim joint just above the motor mount either needs shortening or lengthening,mine needed lengthening.the first thing is take the bolt out of the top mount under the tank.leave it out and lengthen the one above the motor mount on the bottom at the front.mine took 4 rounds.then you loosen the top mount until it drops back in the mounting hole.tighten ride to check if it needs more.

 

My 05 RKC did this until I installed the Bagger Brace suspension stabilizer. There are several threads in the touring forum on the benefits of installing this stabilizer.

 

My 02 Electraglide, 06 Heritage Classic and now my 2012 Ultra all drifted to the left slightly.

 

REALLY REALLY REALLY wish this post had been around before i threw away the bike and all its equity over this issue. Mine would literally change lanes withing a second if you let go of the bars and two stealerships could not fix it. HD MoCo's resolution was to "hold on to the bars" and never acknowledged there was an issue. now i know ...

 

interesting...

 

That is interesting. My '08 UC did a little of that. There was a lot of discussion here and elsewhere about that, people were experiencing it, and we thought it could be things like the clutch cable as it passed through the batwing exerting a little bias into the steering, stuff like that. I just gradually learned to live with it - it wasn't that bad. But interesting to see what it probably really was. Don't own that bike anymore, and I don't notice any of it in my new 2012 SG, so I guess the MoCo got the drive line alignment right on this one.

 

Disconnect the clutch cable from the forks and ur problem should disappear.

 

That's the mount that adjusts the vertical plane of the rear tire, and if the vertical plane of the rear tire is not completely parrallel to the frame it is one of the things that can cause this. Picture driving behind and looking at a bike running down the road perfectly vertical. Now picture the back tire on the same bike tilted so the top is just a little to the left and the bottom where it meets the road is a little to the right. Because left side of that back tire is making just a shade more contact than the centerline of that tire- it wants to go left.

All the other alignment suggestions that address the two wheels run parrallel to each other by adjusting the left and right of the rear wheel are irrelevant to this issue- they address "crabbing". It would only lead to leaving two tracks when driving through the snow intead of one (in an exaggerated situation of course). Reason for this is you would simply turn the front wheel left or right to compensate, but there wouldn't be any negative feedback from the back wheel because you still go straight without resistance.

Mine tracks straight as an arrow, btw.

 

My old '98 Wide Glide tracked mostly true - just a bit of pull to the left that I could compensate for by shifting my but a little if I wanted to ride no-hands (like coasting downhill for awhile). My new '12 Road King has considerably more pull to the left - not huge, but more than I can compensate for by shifting my weight. I'm going to have it checked when I take it in for it's 1K service visit, and will see what my dealer says/does.

Interesting timing, but last night I was watching "Motor Week" on Velocity, and their shop/wrenching vignette feature had a guy from a dealership back east - want to say Fairfax, VA maybe? - who went through the simple process of showing how to check alignment of the rear wheel by using a piece of welding rod and an o-ring to mark each side's measurement from the rear axle to the swing arm pivot point to ensure they were the same. Not sure if this is relevant to fixing what we're experiencing with the left-hand pull, but I thought it was a quick way to confirm the rear wheel was lined-up straight with respect to the swing arm. Just thought I'd share.

 

Ted,
I would guess you have an alignment problem..
You need to get a Jack of some sort that has the ability to get both tires off the ground same time or not..
Go back thru the bike and re-torque front and back set-ups
Front: off ground loosen and be sure that the outter spacers are riding on the proper surface of both outter (I always undo brakes loosen or off) bearings. If all is lined up tighten and then retorque should spin very easlily and roll and roll (assuming no brakes) with the lightest spin... put brakes on.
The rear is where everything gets critical but again the wheel must be off ground TRANNY IN NEUTRAL. take brake off (alan-head socket), loosen cone nut... 36MM need two wrenches or sockets.. using a 36 MM tighten the belt (left side welded nut; procedure) key is: not TOO tight. tighten cone nut enuf to keep belt setting... roll it.. should be as about as free as front with exception of you are carrying the tranny along with in neutral (brakes off machine) carefully watch the belt as it travels around cog should set in the middle and travel smoothly and very quiet. Go thru final torqueing procedure wheel off ground.. point is cone nut etc.. should be set and loosened and retorqued to spec all the while making sure belt tension stays.. A little loose and straight is better'n goin sideways.. On my FLHX (08) if I can't go hands free with cruise control on sumpin ain't quite right.. 2:00 AM for miles.. If the bike was set up right from the git go this will at least get it back to that.. DO NOT over torque anything: 1) The front axle nut(60-65 ftlbs check spec) or front axle Cap nuts(< 15 ft lbs) that'll drive ya into the ditch and will feel too tight; 2) The belt , nor the Cone NUt (95-105 ft lbs).
Be sure everything is seated properly IE spacers on the proper portion of the wheel bearings.. If you over tighten belt it will thro bike/wheel alignment off.. If all is good brakes will be much quieter etc.. and will not have a cyclic rubbing sound but a nice quiet consistent shh..
I just went thru all this on my glide and found I'd pretty much over tightened everything. My front spacers checked again for mating to bearing. The front end felt too tight, went back thru and retorqued all again; when right front wheel will just spin and spin. The back I was winging it on the belt tightening and it was way too tight and made bike pull to left.. that too me was the biggest issue.. bringing drive train and front end out of alignment... There is only going to be a small margin between straight and too tite on belt.. I'm now riding hands free with cruise control on...again. If this doesn't get it find an H-D dealer that has the technical wherewithall to do a true drive train alignment which WILL involve engine mounts etc... Long winded but Hope this helps.. be sure to use plenty of anti-sieze (I use brand name (IE loctite, copper anti-sieze) put it only on required parts DO NOT put on front axle tip under axle cap... but I found it was sorely lacking from the factory you will really notice the difference but will have to pull axles etc.. gotta go keep on glidin