Proper way to break in new motors
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 2
From: Slidell, La.
Break-in
I agree with HD110. I pretty much used this exact method on both my '06 GMC Duramax and my '09 Ultra Classic. Both run well, use no oil and haven't had any problems with them. Now on the other hand, I broke my 2000 Road King in exactly by the owner's manual. Bike ran ok but used about 1 quart of oil every 5000 miles until I traded it at 106K.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,788
Likes: 203
From: SW Florida
Basically these four (engine builders and piston ring manufactures) recommend the same brake-in procedure. Ride it hard, (stay under 4000 RPM's for the first 50 miles) don't beat on it, and don't baby it.
1. Head Quarters - New Engine Break In and AFR
2. How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear! Also linked from the Baisley Hi-Performance
3. Hastings (Piston Ring) Manufacturing Company - Break-In Procedure
Here is a pic of one of the pistons removed from my engine that has 8500 miles on it. I broke it in a little harder than the HD manual suggests. Note, the top ring never fully sealed. The engine builder told me this piston looks better then most he sees. The pistons were removed to install a 103 big bore kit.
Here is a pic of a piston where engine was broken in on the dyno at WOT and there are 3300 miles on it.
Here is a pic of a piston where the engine was babied at brake-in. There are 4200 miles on the piston and you can see it is discolored on the skirt. This is a piston that let the gasses past all the rings and it burned the bottom of the piston. Combustion heat should never be there.
This piston has 2000 miles on it. Rings never sealed.
My new build will be broken using the procedures above.
WOT pulls right from the get go.
1. Head Quarters - New Engine Break In and AFR
2. How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear! Also linked from the Baisley Hi-Performance
3. Hastings (Piston Ring) Manufacturing Company - Break-In Procedure
Here is a pic of one of the pistons removed from my engine that has 8500 miles on it. I broke it in a little harder than the HD manual suggests. Note, the top ring never fully sealed. The engine builder told me this piston looks better then most he sees. The pistons were removed to install a 103 big bore kit.
Here is a pic of a piston where engine was broken in on the dyno at WOT and there are 3300 miles on it.
Here is a pic of a piston where the engine was babied at brake-in. There are 4200 miles on the piston and you can see it is discolored on the skirt. This is a piston that let the gasses past all the rings and it burned the bottom of the piston. Combustion heat should never be there.
This piston has 2000 miles on it. Rings never sealed.
My new build will be broken using the procedures above.
WOT pulls right from the get go.
Last edited by Bertk; Oct 30, 2011 at 12:21 AM. Reason: Update Links
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 335
Likes: 0
From: So. Calif.
The idea is to break in the surfaces of the rings and cylinder, bearings, gear surfaces, etc. under a variety of different loading conditions so that the fit is consistent. While under a steady state condition, such as running on cruise control at a constant speed, pressure at certain points tends to be stronger or weaker at the same places in a bearing race or cylinder wall, or on the surfaces of the gear teeth. Varying the load/speed moves the heaviest rub points around, so you get more even wear. Once the break-in is complete, and the surfaces mate as perfectly as possible across the loading range, then you get the best performance across the board.
JMHO
Thread Starter
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 12
Basically these four (engine builders and piston ring manufactures) recommend the same brake-in procedure. Ride it hard, don't beat on it, and don't baby it.
1. Head Quarters - New Engine Break In and AFR
2. How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear! Also linked from the Baisley Hi-Performance
3. Axtel - Ring Seal - PDF -
4. Hastings (Piston Ring) Manufacturing Company - Break-In Procedure
Here is a pic of one of the pistons removed from my engine that has 8500 miles on it. I broke it in a little harder than the HD manual suggests. Note, the top ring never fully sealed. The engine builder told me this piston looks better then most he sees. The pistons were removed to install a 103 big bore kit.
Here is a pic of a piston where engine was broken in on the dyno at WOT and there are 3300 miles on it.
Here is a pic of a piston where the engine was babied at brake-in. There are 4200 miles on the piston and you can see it is discolored on the skirt. This is a piston that let the gasses past all the rings and it burned the bottom of the piston. Combustion heat should never be there.
This piston has 2000 miles on it. Rings never sealed.
My new build will be broken using the procedures above. WOT pulls right from the get go.
1. Head Quarters - New Engine Break In and AFR
2. How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear! Also linked from the Baisley Hi-Performance
3. Axtel - Ring Seal - PDF -
4. Hastings (Piston Ring) Manufacturing Company - Break-In Procedure
Here is a pic of one of the pistons removed from my engine that has 8500 miles on it. I broke it in a little harder than the HD manual suggests. Note, the top ring never fully sealed. The engine builder told me this piston looks better then most he sees. The pistons were removed to install a 103 big bore kit.
Here is a pic of a piston where engine was broken in on the dyno at WOT and there are 3300 miles on it.
Here is a pic of a piston where the engine was babied at brake-in. There are 4200 miles on the piston and you can see it is discolored on the skirt. This is a piston that let the gasses past all the rings and it burned the bottom of the piston. Combustion heat should never be there.
This piston has 2000 miles on it. Rings never sealed.
My new build will be broken using the procedures above.
WOT pulls right from the get go.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 4
I agree with HD110. I pretty much used this exact method on both my '06 GMC Duramax and my '09 Ultra Classic. Both run well, use no oil and haven't had any problems with them. Now on the other hand, I broke my 2000 Road King in exactly by the owner's manual. Bike ran ok but used about 1 quart of oil every 5000 miles until I traded it at 106K.
It has been my experience with motors that use a little oil, they last longer and run stronger JMHO.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,788
Likes: 203
From: SW Florida
Basically these four (engine builders and piston ring manufactures) recommend the same brake-in procedure. Ride it hard, don't beat on it, and don't baby it.
1. Head Quarters - New Engine Break In and AFR
2. How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear! Also linked from the Baisley Hi-Performance
3. Axtel - Ring Seal - PDF -
4. Hastings (Piston Ring) Manufacturing Company - Break-In Procedure
Here is a pic of one of the pistons removed from my engine that has 8500 miles on it. I broke it in a little harder than the HD manual suggests. Note, the top ring never fully sealed. The engine builder told me this piston looks better then most he sees. The pistons were removed to install a 103 big bore kit.
Here is a pic of a piston where engine was broken in on the dyno at WOT and there are 3300 miles on it.
Here is a pic of a piston where the engine was babied at brake-in. There are 4200 miles on the piston and you can see it is discolored on the skirt. This is a piston that let the gasses past all the rings and it burned the bottom of the piston. Combustion heat should never be there.
This piston has 2000 miles on it. Rings never sealed.
My new build will be broken using the procedures above. WOT pulls right from the get go.
1. Head Quarters - New Engine Break In and AFR
2. How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear! Also linked from the Baisley Hi-Performance
3. Axtel - Ring Seal - PDF -
4. Hastings (Piston Ring) Manufacturing Company - Break-In Procedure
Here is a pic of one of the pistons removed from my engine that has 8500 miles on it. I broke it in a little harder than the HD manual suggests. Note, the top ring never fully sealed. The engine builder told me this piston looks better then most he sees. The pistons were removed to install a 103 big bore kit.
Here is a pic of a piston where engine was broken in on the dyno at WOT and there are 3300 miles on it.
Here is a pic of a piston where the engine was babied at brake-in. There are 4200 miles on the piston and you can see it is discolored on the skirt. This is a piston that let the gasses past all the rings and it burned the bottom of the piston. Combustion heat should never be there.
This piston has 2000 miles on it. Rings never sealed.
My new build will be broken using the procedures above.
WOT pulls right from the get go.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,542
Likes: 161
From: Booming metropolis
I picked my bike up Tuesday and I have been trying to break my motor in and now have 175 miles on the Odometer. I have been doing the speed variation and rolling the throttle up to 4500 rpms then dropping about 10-20 mph before repeating the process. For some reason I thought 4500 rpm was the limit but now see where it indicates 4000 max rpm in the manual for the first 50 miles. After the first 50 miles RMPs up to 5000 are permissable up to 500 miles.
will the extra 500 rpms I did in the first 50 miles have a negative affect on the motor?
By the way this process sucks. I am so looking forward to the 1000k mile mark to add the D&D 2-1 and PC V.
will the extra 500 rpms I did in the first 50 miles have a negative affect on the motor?
By the way this process sucks. I am so looking forward to the 1000k mile mark to add the D&D 2-1 and PC V.
Last edited by hog95023; May 2, 2009 at 12:25 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: boston ma.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,788
Likes: 203
From: SW Florida
I picked my bike up Tuesday and I have been trying to break my motor in and now have 175 miles on the Odometer. I have been doing the speed variation and rolling the throttle up to 4500 rpms then dropping about 10-20 mph before repeating the process. For some reason I thought 4500 rpm was the limit but now see where it indicates 4000 max rpm in the manual for the first 50 miles. After the first 50 miles RMPs up to 5000 are permissable up to 500 miles.
will the extra 500 rpms I did in the first 50 miles have a negative affect on the motor?
By the way this process sucks. I am so looking forward to the 1000k mile mark to add the D&D 2-1 and PC V.
will the extra 500 rpms I did in the first 50 miles have a negative affect on the motor?
By the way this process sucks. I am so looking forward to the 1000k mile mark to add the D&D 2-1 and PC V.
And now would be a good time to change the oil using Petroleum oil.
Last edited by Bertk; May 3, 2009 at 11:47 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 483
Likes: 5
From: Way U.P. North
Run it in fairly hard, just dont abuse it. And change the oil early. Shine a light through the drain oil at 100 miles and tell me you want those sparklies circulating another 900 miles.
Break in link #1
Break in #2
Break in link #1
Break in #2