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I went for a small ride the other day and started hearing a clacking noise coming from the back side of bike. It got me a bit worried, so I headed back home to check it out. While checking around the bike I noticed the rear drive pulley bolts were almost half way out.
I heard somewhere that once this happens, not to re-tightend them, but to buy new ones and to make sure its grade 8 bolts. Do i need to buy this from HD?
Also, what is the IDS conversion I hear people talking about? I did a search here, but nothing came up on it.
Your lucky happened to me about 2 weeks ago I heard this on the highway and thought it may have been the pipes off the concrete and when I came down the off ramp on of the 3 loose bolts actually worked its way out so far the it locked the tire up by hitting the swing arm. I sheered all 5 bolts off so the pulley was spinning independent of the rear wheel. It was covered under warranty but I needed and new rear pulley, a new wheel and new tire. The best thing is the bike stayed up. Scary thought!
On mine, it just looks like the bolts came loose. Doesn't seem like theres any other damage (atleast I hope not)
Is this something I can do myself, or should i take in to the shop?
Can anyone chime in on the IDS conversion?
James
If you do it yourself, buy new bolts and use plenty of red loctite on them. Torque them properly and look at them every now and then. It ain't pretty if they come out and break or lock up your wheel, just sayin.
Happened on my wifes Deluxe last month. we were 250 miles from home and had to spend a night and have the bike towed to a dealer. She had Chrome bolts from HD, installed by HD, and NO loctite was used. She snapped 4 of the 5 bolts, and was able to stop safely. Had to have them drilled out and removed with an easyout.
Never heard of this before, but now I am hearing of it alot...thats Scarey.
I got home and checked mine, and it will be a part of every service or cleaning to double check those bolts.
Just remember with IDS, the bolts will be hidden and un-checkable as the sprocket is really two separate pieces (the outer sprocket and the inner bowl). The belt is attached to the outer sprocket, inside of which are the rubber isolators, which make contact with the bowl attached to the wheel. I haven't heard of this happening with IDS equipped bikes (maybe the outer sprocket acts as a keeper to prevent the bolts from backing out fully).
If you do your own wheel changes, just make sure you use new bolts (they have the loctite compound on them).
Thanks for the responses. Its kinda wierd it happened.....I haven't had a wheel changed and no work done to the back end at all. Bike is fairly new (07 RK) and thats the last thing i thought would happen. I'm just glad I caught it.
Did you guys buy the bolts at HD, or did you pick them up from local hardware shop (Lowe's or home depot)?
Use HD ones they have a captive length shoulder on them for the pulley. Be sure to check the holes in the wheel real careful, if they are elongated and from the ones Ive seen that failed the most likely are. You will need a new wheel. Whether or not you need one, run a tap thru the holes all the way down and clean them out before putting a dab (only a dab, or you will never get it out) of red locktite. If you try to use a wheel that the holes are elongated I guarantee it will fail again.
Not sure what IDS stands for but Rear Sprocket Isolator may also be referred to as Cush Drive, Rotor/Rear Wheel Torque Dampner or as most folks call it on HDForum, IDS. Just thought to add. Heres a good vid to check out:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rqz5TDVtG1g
Last edited by cadreamn; Aug 11, 2021 at 05:16 PM.
Reason: Correct link
Not sure what IDS stands for but Rear Sprocket Isolator may also be referred to as Cush Drive, Rotor/Rear Wheel Torque Dampner or as most folks call it on HDForum, IDS. Just thought to add. Heres a good vid to check out:
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