diagnostic code on '99 FLHRCI
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2007
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diagnostic code on '99 FLHRCI
Hi Guys, hope someone can help me.
When I start my bike (cold engine) RPM is very low, after about 10 seconds
RPM goes up and comes down again (without rolling the throttle).
I performed the check engine lamp diagnostic check and found trouble code 16
According to HD service manual 2000 FLT models
trouble code 16 is Battery Voltage.
Checked the battery with a multimeter (ignition off) reading was 12.9 volts.
Started the engine without any problems, and rolled the throttle a little bit
reading was 14.3 volts, so charging is OK
The manual says: Code 16 is set if the ignition module sees battery positive
voltage less than 8 or greater than 16 volts.
But I found no such readings.
Hope someone can point me in the right direction.
Thanks !
Peter
When I start my bike (cold engine) RPM is very low, after about 10 seconds
RPM goes up and comes down again (without rolling the throttle).
I performed the check engine lamp diagnostic check and found trouble code 16
According to HD service manual 2000 FLT models
trouble code 16 is Battery Voltage.
Checked the battery with a multimeter (ignition off) reading was 12.9 volts.
Started the engine without any problems, and rolled the throttle a little bit
reading was 14.3 volts, so charging is OK
The manual says: Code 16 is set if the ignition module sees battery positive
voltage less than 8 or greater than 16 volts.
But I found no such readings.
Hope someone can point me in the right direction.
Thanks !
Peter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: South Texas.
How does this answer help him?, maybe some people can't afford switching out, or, maybe they like their setup.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,852
Likes: 2,493
From: Decatur, Alabama
The first question I've got is how old is that battery? If it is more than a couple three years I would simply buy a new one. Also, be sure to make sure that the terminal connections are very tight. My Road King threw a slew of trouble codes last week all due to less than tight battery terminal connections.
You have a 1999 bike and checked it against the trouble codes for a 2000? I'm not sure but the codes might not be the same. Worth double checking. I don't trust battery condition to a voltmeter either.
If the motor is idling at up/down RPMs, I would suspect the engine temp sensor also. Mine was doing that and I changed it out just yesterday and it solved the problem.
You have a 1999 bike and checked it against the trouble codes for a 2000? I'm not sure but the codes might not be the same. Worth double checking. I don't trust battery condition to a voltmeter either.
If the motor is idling at up/down RPMs, I would suspect the engine temp sensor also. Mine was doing that and I changed it out just yesterday and it solved the problem.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 6,590
Likes: 444
From: Ohio
A bad temp sensor should throw a 14 code, however if it is original, it may be worth replacing anyway. Here is a procedure for adjusting MM idle:
To all who have idle issues with their MM EFI:
Here is a down-and-dirty way to set COLD idle quality.
Overview:
Power Commanders can only affect A/F once the engine warms up to the point (280+) where the ECM releases control to the base map. Also time has some influence but that's not important to this proceedure.
The Throttle Position sensor, (TP) when rotated, will shift the entire A/F map, including idle, richer or leaner whether hot or cold. So we will use the TP to adjust cold idle quality when first fired up. Then use the PC to adjust hot idle A/F once the engine gets fully warmed up and the ECM makes PC access available.
Procedure:
1) THIS MUST BE DONE WITH A BIKE THAT IS COLD, AS IN NOT STARTED FOR THE DAY YET.
2) Remove/dig out the epoxy from the throttle position sensor screws. Then loosen top and bottom screws so you can rotate it.
3) What you are going to do is quickly adjust the TP sensor to get the engine to run at its best as soon as you fire up the motor. This must be done as quickly as possible as the engine temperature will start generating immediately and that will be a problem if you run the engine too long before getting the adjustment right.
4) Once you have got the engine to "be happy" running cold, re-tighten the TP screws. Remove the ECM fuse or disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to reset the idle stepper motor idle loop.
5) After setting the cold idle for best/happiest running, the hot idle speed may need to be readjusted. Before readjusting the hot idle speed ride the bike for 10-15 mins at highway speeds to make sure the engine is COMPLETELY up to operating temp.
6) Chances are good the A/F tuning will need to be readjusted because the baseline it worked from changed. Sometimes, depending on the engine mods, a bike will run better with a ZERO map in the Power Commander than the one used before the change. This happens because the procedure shifts the entire A/F mapping usually to the richer side and that helps a lot. However, there will also be areas that become too rich so it will pay to get it properly tuned. Unfortunately the procedure to get the cold idle quality good affects the hot idle speed and general mapping.
Hope this helps, and the above assumes all the MM system is in running (no dead sensors, wires, excess oil buildup in the TB, etc) condition and simply needs tweeking.
To all who have idle issues with their MM EFI:
Here is a down-and-dirty way to set COLD idle quality.
Overview:
Power Commanders can only affect A/F once the engine warms up to the point (280+) where the ECM releases control to the base map. Also time has some influence but that's not important to this proceedure.
The Throttle Position sensor, (TP) when rotated, will shift the entire A/F map, including idle, richer or leaner whether hot or cold. So we will use the TP to adjust cold idle quality when first fired up. Then use the PC to adjust hot idle A/F once the engine gets fully warmed up and the ECM makes PC access available.
Procedure:
1) THIS MUST BE DONE WITH A BIKE THAT IS COLD, AS IN NOT STARTED FOR THE DAY YET.
2) Remove/dig out the epoxy from the throttle position sensor screws. Then loosen top and bottom screws so you can rotate it.
3) What you are going to do is quickly adjust the TP sensor to get the engine to run at its best as soon as you fire up the motor. This must be done as quickly as possible as the engine temperature will start generating immediately and that will be a problem if you run the engine too long before getting the adjustment right.
4) Once you have got the engine to "be happy" running cold, re-tighten the TP screws. Remove the ECM fuse or disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to reset the idle stepper motor idle loop.
5) After setting the cold idle for best/happiest running, the hot idle speed may need to be readjusted. Before readjusting the hot idle speed ride the bike for 10-15 mins at highway speeds to make sure the engine is COMPLETELY up to operating temp.
6) Chances are good the A/F tuning will need to be readjusted because the baseline it worked from changed. Sometimes, depending on the engine mods, a bike will run better with a ZERO map in the Power Commander than the one used before the change. This happens because the procedure shifts the entire A/F mapping usually to the richer side and that helps a lot. However, there will also be areas that become too rich so it will pay to get it properly tuned. Unfortunately the procedure to get the cold idle quality good affects the hot idle speed and general mapping.
Hope this helps, and the above assumes all the MM system is in running (no dead sensors, wires, excess oil buildup in the TB, etc) condition and simply needs tweeking.
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