Changed fork oil
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 5
From: Alabama
Changed fork oil
Changed fork oil, used Iclick's instructions posted here https://www.hdforums.com/forum/3734005-post23.html
Man! what a difference, took care of the diving front, I have 21,500 miles on my FLHX. I wished I had put the SE fork oil in it a long time ago. Firmer ride but not harsh. really improved the handling. Well worth the 45 minutes it takes to do the job, and it only takes that long because of the waiting for the fluid to drain.
better ride and handling , and braking is better without the diving. more stable while accelerating hard. So if you haven't changed the fork oil, you should.
And Iclick is right you should have a manual impact driver handy to get the drain screws loose. (I had one from previous derby cover troubles)
Man! what a difference, took care of the diving front, I have 21,500 miles on my FLHX. I wished I had put the SE fork oil in it a long time ago. Firmer ride but not harsh. really improved the handling. Well worth the 45 minutes it takes to do the job, and it only takes that long because of the waiting for the fluid to drain.
better ride and handling , and braking is better without the diving. more stable while accelerating hard. So if you haven't changed the fork oil, you should.
And Iclick is right you should have a manual impact driver handy to get the drain screws loose. (I had one from previous derby cover troubles)
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,524
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From: Vermont
Yes sir, I don't know why people leave that 5wt E fork oil in there. I also don't know why people wait for 50k miles like HD says. IMO, I think that's too long. I do mine every 20-25k
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,108
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From: Lincolnton, NC
I also don't know why people wait for 50k miles like HD says.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
I'd like to add something to the aforementioned write-up up I did. The next time I do it, and I think this is most important the first time, I will add a few oz. of fresh fluid after draining and pump the forks to make sure it's all out. Plus this should help get more contaminants out.
Hey Dawg, I've always heard the Type E is a 10-wt. oil, Type B 15-wt, SE Heavy 20-wt., and SE Extra Heavy (Racing) 30-wt. I don't know what the factory fish oil viscosity is, but maybe it's a 5-wt. What comes from the factory is definitely not Type E, and you can tell that by the smell.
I don't know if any of the above viscosity data is true since AFAIK HD doesn't divulge this info.
Hey Dawg, I've always heard the Type E is a 10-wt. oil, Type B 15-wt, SE Heavy 20-wt., and SE Extra Heavy (Racing) 30-wt. I don't know what the factory fish oil viscosity is, but maybe it's a 5-wt. What comes from the factory is definitely not Type E, and you can tell that by the smell.
I don't know if any of the above viscosity data is true since AFAIK HD doesn't divulge this info.
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 75
Likes: 1
My dealer wants to change fork oil every 10k service......mmmmmm
I got 30k on mine, might be time to change.
I got 30k on mine, might be time to change.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,785
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From: Oklahoma
I've gone to changing it every 10k. After having to remove the stock drain plug screws with vice grips the first time, I replaced them with hex heads--much easier to deal with. And I've found standard ATF does just fine and gives about the right firmness for me.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: anacoco, la
Hey Dawg, I've always heard the Type E is a 10-wt. oil, Type B 15-wt, SE Heavy 20-wt., and SE Extra Heavy (Racing) 30-wt. I don't know what the factory fish oil viscosity is, but maybe it's a 5-wt. What comes from the factory is definitely not Type E, and you can tell that by the smell.
type e = 5 wt
type b = 10 wt (not recommended for showa forks)
se heavy = 15 wt
se race = 20 wt
can't remember where i found that, but now its got me totally confused.... i just know that the se heavy that i put in works great, whatever weight it is.