Changed fork oil, used Iclick's instructions posted here https://www.hdforums.com/forum/3734005-post23.html

Man! what a difference, took care of the diving front, I have 21,500 miles on my FLHX. I wished I had put the SE fork oil in it a long time ago. Firmer ride but not harsh. really improved the handling. Well worth the 45 minutes it takes to do the job, and it only takes that long because of the waiting for the fluid to drain.
better ride and handling , and braking is better without the diving. more stable while accelerating hard. So if you haven't changed the fork oil, you should.

And Iclick is right you should have a manual impact driver handy to get the drain screws loose. (I had one from previous derby cover troubles)

 

Yes sir, I don't know why people leave that 5wt E fork oil in there. I also don't know why people wait for 50k miles like HD says. IMO, I think that's too long. I do mine every 20-25k

 

Will this process work on a 2006 Street Glide?

 

Yes it will.

 

I waited until 50K miles to change mine and you're right, that's too long to wait. It was some nasty looking stuff that drained out. Like you said, the interval should be about half what the service manual recommends.

 

I'd like to add something to the aforementioned write-up up I did. The next time I do it, and I think this is most important the first time, I will add a few oz. of fresh fluid after draining and pump the forks to make sure it's all out. Plus this should help get more contaminants out.

Hey Dawg, I've always heard the Type E is a 10-wt. oil, Type B 15-wt, SE Heavy 20-wt., and SE Extra Heavy (Racing) 30-wt. I don't know what the factory fish oil viscosity is, but maybe it's a 5-wt. What comes from the factory is definitely not Type E, and you can tell that by the smell.

I don't know if any of the above viscosity data is true since AFAIK HD doesn't divulge this info.

 

My dealer wants to change fork oil every 10k service......mmmmmm

I got 30k on mine, might be time to change.

 

thanks for the tips and ride safe

 

I've gone to changing it every 10k. After having to remove the stock drain plug screws with vice grips the first time, I replaced them with hex heads--much easier to deal with. And I've found standard ATF does just fine and gives about the right firmness for me.

 

yeah, i had heard that as well, then i found something that said:
type e = 5 wt
type b = 10 wt (not recommended for showa forks)
se heavy = 15 wt
se race = 20 wt

can't remember where i found that, but now its got me totally confused.... i just know that the se heavy that i put in works great, whatever weight it is.