2009 Ultra Heated Grips Install Notes
I'm glad I read all these posts as it really sounds like a pain in the rear to set it all up. My gloves cost me about $125. They aren't' the best but they are better than my summer gloves for sure. I had some really nice old Hein Gerhick (Spelling?) gloves from twenty years ago but during the years I wasn't riding I let my son take them snowboarding...never seen 'em again...
$250 is a lot for a pair of grips. For the amount of riding I do during the Winter is it worth it? I'm thinking right now about riding down to La Paz Mexico in a week or two just to dose up on some rays. I live in Seattle so getting through Washington, Oregon, and Northern California will take about 12 hours each way. That's a long freaking haul for cold hands. I guess I could supplement some hand warmer packets...
What I'm getting at is this: Are Heated Hand warmers worth the $ and hassle? Would my Dad call me a puss for whining about cold hands? Grampa didn't have heated grips, so why should I need them? A guy has to think utility to stay sharp. Make due with what I have so to speak.
I'd like to hear from other riders who ride in cold wet weather without them and also from people who have logged tons of miles with them...I'd like to compare experiences. Bottom Line...are heated grips necessary or just another gadget to spend hard earned money on? My Ultra Classic already has plenty of wires on it.
Last edited by wildone57; Jun 11, 2011 at 12:44 PM. Reason: to add more
But to have to feed a wire through a whole, RISKING damage to other EXPENSIVE, Technical wiring...Throttle, Radio, CD, Cruise Control, Etc....is frickin' LUDICROUS!!!
Hey HD. You want me to buy HD accessories? Make 'em easy to install and quit friggin around. Heated Grips should be factory installed , or at least plug in easy enough to just unbolt, take off, put on, plug in. We all don't live in Phoenix, and I understand it does get cold there too. The money HD loses on Chargeable Hourly Rates at the Dealership will be offset by R&R Rear Tires and Balancing.
Read quote below:
This was not the most pleasant job.
While pulling the twist grip sensor out of the right side bar, you will need to feed the other end of its cable (disconnected inside the fairing) back into the slot/hole in the center of the bar (don't just "pull" it as the instructions say.) Page 3, Step 4, you are instructed to crimp the two Multilock terminals onto the sensor wires; unless you happen to have the special crimp tool you will be unlikely to be able to crimp them well enough to avoid shorting the connectors together when inserting them into the plastic connector housing. These are tiny wires and a tiny connector housing. I soldered them and used heat-shrink tubing after fiddling for quite a while with the terminals.
Prior to Page 6 Step 3 you are advised to use electrician's fish tape or air pressure to feed the harness through the bars. Don't even bother with the compressed air technique, since the right side bar is nearly full of wires for the electronic throttle (twist grip sensor.) Unless you have a tiny fish tape (standard fish tape won't bend enough for the four sharp bends in the bars and will likely damage the throttle wiring), that won't work either. I used teflon-coated 16 gauge copper wire, feeding one piece from the right and one from the left, pulling them out the hole in the middle of the bar (not trivial), joining them, then pulling from the left side. It's a bit tedious getting the heated grip harness through the bar and past the wiring and connectors in the right side bar.
Page 4, Step 29 (plugging in the small connector in the end of the throttle grip) is VERY difficult. I recommend very small long-nose pliers, a chair, good light (I actually used a small light on an elastic strap around my forehead that my young nephew gave me for Christmas years ago; silly as it looked it worked very well because you need both hands free), patience, and NO beer. The f***ing contacts are about as thick as small mechanical pencil lead and are not rigidly fixed in the rubber connector, so they flex inward while you move them toward the female part of the connector. And you can't see the contacts as they engage the female part since the rubber connector blocks your view. Party.
Wiring: Page 5 Step 6 is just plain wrong for 2009 Touring bikes. Fuse box is under the left side cover, not the right. Step 7/8: When you look at the back side of the fuse box, you will see what appears to be an empty metal terminal on one side of the "P&A IGN" slot (other side is empty, as expected.) This terminal is NOT empty; it has an internal jumper that you can't see which connects to the proper power source. Do NOT attempt to remove it (trust me; I tried and UGLY things happen.) Just install the orange/white wire from the kit in the other side of this fuse spot and you'll be fine.
The heated grips do work properly. I just hope that they've improved the quality since they made the ones for my 2007 Road King, because the originals lasted about three months. If there were aftermarket heated grips that worked on these bikes, I'd buy them, but I don't want wires hanging down or crap on the outside of the stock grips. I really need them for temperatures below about 55° to 60°F; circulation in my hands isn't great and I'd rather not hook up my heated gloves.
You know, installing these would be a snap if the bikes came pre-wired for heated grips. Guess that would deprive service departments of three or four hours labor charges, but I'm thinking that very few techs enjoy doing this particular job.[/quote]
Thanks
Thanks
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