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Decided I was gonna go out and take the cam cover off my RK and check the cam tensioners. Looked at the front pipe and noticed that the lower header bolt is broke off flush with the head. It's apparantly been that way for quite awhile, judging by the looks of it. It looks as if someone has tried to tap it out with a hammer and punch at some point. I bought the bike used, and haven't noticed it until now. It doesn't leak there, so I'm not overly concerned about it right now. As long as it doesn't leak when I put it all back together, and the other bolt doesn't break on me, I think I'll leave it alone until winter. In the off chance it becomes an issue before then, how long should it take me to swap the front head? I'm already eyeing some heads, and may go ahead and buy them, just in case. I don't think I can drill the bolt out with the head on the bike because of the frame. I'll try and get a pic when I pull the pipe to look at the tensioners in a little while.
If you are good with the wrench, it will probably take 2.5 hours to do 1 head and you're right it has to come off to get that broken bolt out. Probably a job for a machine shop anyway.
Thanks, Lucky.
That's about what I was guessing. Might grab a spare head before I tackle it. Any idea what years will work? Mine's an '01. I'm assuming any 88TC front head will work?
99~09 "will work". 06 & later require a different intake flange, but the head will work. 08 & 09 have a machined off surface for the upper stabilizer, but you can still use the head.
From a simplicity perspective, 99 ~ 05 would be the easiest swap.
If I understand your post properly, there's almost no chance you can put a pipe on and use only only one flange bolt and not end up with an exhaust leak.
Check out Georges Garage. They sell a jig for drilling out broken exhaust studs. I haven't priced it, but I bet it's cheaper than buying a head or having a shop get the stud out.
If I understand your post properly, there's almost no chance you can put a pipe on and use only only one flange bolt and not end up with an exhaust leak.
There's only one flange bolt in it right now. And it's not leaking. That's why I'm leary about taking it off to check the tensioners. I'm worried it'll leak when I put it back together, or that the other bolt may break. Guess I may wait to check the tensioners until I'm ready to fix the broken stud.
Georges garage has a jig for about $60, but it isn't for a TC.
There's only one flange bolt in it right now. And it's not leaking. That's why I'm leary about taking it off to check the tensioners. I'm worried it'll leak when I put it back together, or that the other bolt may break. Guess I may wait to check the tensioners until I'm ready to fix the broken stud.
Georges garage has a jig for about $60, but it isn't for a TC.
41k miles.
No unusual noises, but would like to see the tensioners so I don't have any surprises later.
Heads are cheap. If I pull mine and it gets f-ed up trying to get the stud out, I have to buy one anyway. A lot easier to buy one, and just swap it. Less down time if I don't wait til winter.
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