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Socket size for the comp nut depends on the year of the bike. You will also need to have a piece of flatbar or something else to lock the sprockets to loosen the nuts and torque them back down on install.
Change mine for a chrome inner last week cause i have a leak on the leap seal, easy job no special tool just a service manual for torque specs. took me around 6 hours and a couple of beer,i like the look with the chrome inner.here is a pic
Last edited by fxlowboy; Jul 13, 2009 at 04:24 PM.
6 hours??? You musta spent most of your time sipping those beers.
No special tools. Just need the right sized sockets and allens/torxs. A torque wrench is a plus too, though I had my inner primary off twice last weekend and just used the impact to snug everything back up. The large sockets are 1 1/2" and 1 3/16", on mine at least.
A tip........ when you go to pull the rotor off the stator, you can insert the bent ends of 2 allen wrenches into the holes, and pull it off. No puller required. And if you don't have snap ring pliers, an old pair of needle nose will work, though you may have to bend the ends slightly.
A tip........ when you go to pull the rotor off the stator, you can insert the bent ends of 2 allen wrenches into the holes, and pull it off. No puller required. And if you don't have snap ring pliers, an old pair of needle nose will work, though you may have to bend the ends slightly.
If it's a newer model, he won't even have to pull the rotor off at all.
6 hours??? You musta spent most of your time sipping those beers.
No special tools. Just need the right sized sockets and allens/torxs. A torque wrench is a plus too, though I had my inner primary off twice last weekend and just used the impact to snug everything back up. The large sockets are 1 1/2" and 1 3/16", on mine at least.
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