How much additional power or current is capable from our touring bikes electrical system?

A friend fried his stator on his wide glide last weekend. My friend has a J&M CB radio, heated grips and a satellite radio. He believes this added current draw caused his stator to fry. The only additional power I’m using on my FLHTCUI is heated grips. The heated grips draw 2.8A or ~35W. How much overhead do I have before I start burdening my electrical system to pre-mature wear? Anyone?

 

I'm no expert but I have 55W PIAA's in my Passing Lamps, an HID headlamp, Heated Grips and have been running fine for the last 10K miles. I always run with all my lights on, GPS, Radio and heated grips on my way into work.

My volltage is holding 14.5 at idle 800 rpm with all on. Don't think there's any power issue here. Oh yeah and when I'm tripping I use a D-A inverter and keep my cell and laptop charged.

 

Like zubaugh, I run passing lamps all day, fog lamps, two heated vests, stereo, MP3 turned up loud, cruise. Never a problem.

 

Not sure what year your bike is, but I can say that you have anywhere from 38 to 42 amp system........

Touring bikes have always had the heavier set-up, because of all the Doo-Dads and Gee-Gaws that can be installed.......

 

You don't say what year your friends bike was but those stators only last a couple of years on a lot of the bikes. Replaced the stator on my 02 classic at 20,000 miles..

 

I checked the 2004 Touring Models Electrical Diagnostic manual from Harley-Davidson. The FLTRI (Road Glide), FLHTCUI (Ultra Classic EG), FLHTCI (Classic) and FLHTI (EG Standard) have the 45 Amp (High Output - @~3000RMP the output current is 41-48 A) electrical system.

The FLHT (EG Standard), FLHR (Road King), FLHRCI (Road King Classic), FLHRS (Road King Custom), FLHRSI (Road King Custom) and FLHTC (EG Classic) all have the 38 Amp (Low Output) electical system.

I stll would like to know, "How much overhead do I have before I start burdening my electrical system to pre-mature wear?"

 

I have a blender to mix drinks, G.P.S. system to tell me where the nearest bars are, radio to get the party started, boogy lights to set the mood, t.v./v.c.r. combo to play ****, camcorder to record **** and a cell phone hookup to call my lawyer to get me out of jail. My stator is just fine[sm=badbadbad.gif]

 

In your Electrical Diag Manual it will tell you what each item is drawing as far as amperage........

It is in the Charging System section......

Any accessories that you have added above a stock config, are noted in the instructions as an additional amperage draw.......

You have the answer right in front of you inside that manual.....

 

I know that a weak or damaged battery will cause extra stress on
the charging system .

Jack

 

The Milliampere Draw Table 1-4 is incomplete for what I “wants� to know. However, The EDM (Electrical Diagnostic Manual) does provide the minimum head room that HD recommends. Here is the scoop:

The Current Output Test, page 1-17, measures the maximum current output that our charging system is capable of producing. The test monitors the current output of the REGULATOR while it loads the charging system. The test places a variable load across the battery and increases the load until a voltmeter across the battery decreases it’s voltage reading down to 13 VDC. Then the test reads the current output coming out of the voltage regulator. HD states that the FLHTI, FLHTCI, FLHTCUI and FLTRI should have a current output between 41-48 amps. I don’t have any high-power resistive load, which has to handle over 750 Watts. I will assume that my charging system is healthy and producing at least 41 amps.

The Total Current Draw Test, page 1-16, measures the total current that will be taxing our charging system. The test places an Amp meter in series with the battery (negative side). The regulator is disconnected from the stator. All the bikes electrical systems are turned on and the engine is allowed to run at 3000 RPM. The test monitors the current reading from the Amp meter. Here is where the head-room is defined by HD. It States, “The current output should exceed current draw by 3.5 amps, minimum.� Written another way, The Total Current Draw should be 3.5 amps minimum below Current Output (Regulator).

So, if I have a charging system that is putting-out at least 41Amps and HD gives me a head-room of 3.5Amps then my charging system would be safe if the bikes current drain went all the way up to 37.5Amps. Is the charging system really safe under these conditions? Would these conditions break down (overheat) the insulation in the windings of the alternator (stator) if I rode the bike all day long?