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103" stage four???

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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 10:21 PM
  #11  
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Find a good indy, and stay away from the stealer and their SE junk, there are so many BETTER aftermarket parts out there and REAL mechanics
 
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 07:47 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by mopar
I personally think the SE kits are good for someone on a buget who is not concerned about max power. But more power can be made using your stock heads reworked, your cylinders bored and a good piston, cam and a good fuel management system.
Originally Posted by monkish
For the life of me, I can't understand why people still try and put all SE builds in a lunch box of crap along with the dealers that do them. There are good choices out there on all ends and it depends on all the parts and who puts it together.
I think you guys both make very good points. Monkish, I realize there are always exceptions. If SE parts/kits were really as good as the dealers want you to think they are, do you think the aftermarket for performance work on Twin Cam engines would be thriving the way it is???
On the whole, having your local dealership do performance upgrades can be a crapshoot. Have seen this proven time and time again. DEFINATELY do your homework and explore all your options. Dont get caught up listening to a slick talking salesman.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 03:16 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by kingkingking


Talk to an Indy. You will be glad you did. I cant speak highly enough of S&S. Check out the pics of the kit in my album....
King...man I am saddened with the time and money spent on my SE Stage IV 103".
Have the SE 110 heads, 58mm TB, Woods TW6-408 cams, D&D Fatcat and dyno'd at 93Hp and 100 TQ...but the kicker is...I had a SE 266 cam in the same kit that produced 16 more HP..had to replace the cam and lifters in less than a 16 months (hence the Woods cam). Also the compression test revealed 150-160 psi...did the dealer sell me the wrong pistons? Supposedly they were 10.5 to 1...
The Woods cam definitely feels like an improvement, and the power band comes on strong at 2200 RPM. I talked to Paul at Branch O'Keefe engineering and he thought the 2" valves and the throttle body were too much for a 103"...He said he would take my money...but wouldn't recommend the port and polish job...

As a side note: It took the Allen Texas HD, three attempts to finally get the TB from leaking at the intake before the dyno procedure could be finished. They also would not warrant the screwed up cams and lifters..

Were talking $6 grand for labor and parts...and I didn't even get a kiss!

Appreciate your comments.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 03:37 PM
  #14  
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Ouch.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 05:32 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by donjhunt
Also the compression test revealed 150-160 psi...did the dealer sell me the wrong pistons? Supposedly they were 10.5 to 1...
something's not right there. At 150-160 psi, it would be very sluggish off the line. You want it to be up over 180, better at 190 for a performance street engine.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 06:34 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by rizzini
Looking a having 103 stage four done on 09 glide, any comments positive or not? should i go with screaming eagle kit or is another vendor better, with better dyno numbers and for the dollars? any insight would be great
Lots of vendors out there.Whose doing the build?Whose doing the tunning? SE builds are ok if everything is matched,heads,cams,compression & exhaust.The kits they put together usually come with the wrong cam, & the comp is not right.Are you going to do headwork?? You can put together your own package like i did ,& find a builder to build & tune it!!!They will tell whether it will work or not!!!
 
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 06:44 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by donjhunt
King...man I am saddened with the time and money spent on my SE Stage IV 103".
Have the SE 110 heads, 58mm TB, Woods TW6-408 cams, D&D Fatcat and dyno'd at 93Hp and 100 TQ...but the kicker is...I had a SE 266 cam in the same kit that produced 16 more HP..had to replace the cam and lifters in less than a 16 months (hence the Woods cam). Also the compression test revealed 150-160 psi...did the dealer sell me the wrong pistons? Supposedly they were 10.5 to 1...
The Woods cam definitely feels like an improvement, and the power band comes on strong at 2200 RPM. I talked to Paul at Branch O'Keefe engineering and he thought the 2" valves and the throttle body were too much for a 103"...He said he would take my money...but wouldn't recommend the port and polish job...

As a side note: It took the Allen Texas HD, three attempts to finally get the TB from leaking at the intake before the dyno procedure could be finished. They also would not warrant the screwed up cams and lifters..

Were talking $6 grand for labor and parts...and I didn't even get a kiss!

Appreciate your comments.
You have alot of mis matching parts.Your using stock heads? So the compression is probably not right.The Woods 408 & the TW 6 need comp to run.The heads need to be right.Your comp at 150-160 is very low.The heads need working.The head gasket,pistons & compression should all match the cams intake closing for the bike to run at its best.What tuning device are you using?? What size valves are in the bike??? The 58mm might work if the heads could support the flow.You could have had your stock throttle body cleaned up also to support a 103ci bore!!
 
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 06:51 PM
  #18  
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I bought the stage 4 last spring and cancelled with chicago hd,they refunded me 100%(thanks eric). then I said what the hell am i doing im going crazy!

went on ebay(new parts) got the (103)&cast flattops(quiter),mcr heads(30k on my stock),adj pr(quiter,no tick),cometics(squash/compression),259 cam(some lift for the valves 0.579) all this under 1500$

doing it myself and tuneing with my upgraded sert (from my stage 1) with tts another 100

this build will slide under the raidar, very little to mess with like roller rockers,throatle body(stickin out/losing cruise c),crank issues,few clearanceing issues,noise issues,pistons exploding.

I think I found a happy medium,reliable max power with out gettin into deep water.
hope it turns out to be a more sane build for this winter?theres always next year.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2010 | 06:57 PM
  #19  
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To the OP, check out this link, http://fuelmotousa.com/107kit.htm. And to the above poster, the Woods 6-6's DO NOT need compression higher than the standard factory compression to work well. I've got them in my bike with just a stage 1, and I've got 89/104. They will perform well at higher compression, but they don't "need it".
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 10:48 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by arealinvestor
You have alot of mis matching parts.Your using stock heads? So the compression is probably not right.The Woods 408 & the TW 6 need comp to run.The heads need to be right.Your comp at 150-160 is very low.The heads need working.The head gasket,pistons & compression should all match the cams intake closing for the bike to run at its best.What tuning device are you using?? What size valves are in the bike??? The 58mm might work if the heads could support the flow.You could have had your stock throttle body cleaned up also to support a 103ci bore!!
As previously stated, this is the top of the line Stage IV kit (103")sold by Harley Davidson. It came with the SE 110+ heads. Are you saying these heads need re-working? The kit comes with the largest valves HD makes (2") The 58mm TB..is not stock and the flow by has been re-routed to keep it clean.

Not sure on the tuner, but the dyno procedure is top notch and takes 2-3 hours for completion and the bike runs great...just can't figure out the loss of the 16 horse power and torque.

From the information that I have discovered, it appears that HD sold me either the wrong kit or used the lower compression pistons. (9 to 1 CR not the 10.5 to 1)

Hope to disassemble during the cold weather and find out what's going on.

Appreciate your reply.
 
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