i had mine done at the dealer right after I got the bike. I now have 51,000 and no problems with the bearing. I am getting ready to change the rear tire and will probably go ahead and change it out for peace of mind.

 

Here's a Service Bulletin on checking the IDS.

http://www.box.net/shared/gy9vp8hdgq

 

That just checks the rubber isolators, how do you check the bearings?

 

I'm starting to think, the bearings longevity relies solely on if the bearing is aligned perfectly in the rear pulleys bore (horizontally) with the damper cup.
Here's my deduction. If "ANY" side load is introduced after assembly, ie. the pulley is forced into the damper cup and side pressure is exerted on the bearings, it wouldn't take long for any bearing to self destruct!
Like wise, if the bearings placement puts the pulley too far from the cup, it could introduce axial loads on the bearing, putting too much opposing stress on the double row bearings races. Again the bearing would be toast in a short time.
In both scenerio's the bearing quality wouldn't matter.
I think that's why most DIY's tend to go early, with most owners just pressing the bearing in until it's stopped against the bores edge. While HD's tool probably has a depth gauge.
In fact - that's probably why there were so many early failures. HD had to find "optimal" placement of the bearing. Especially considering all the manufacturing stack-up variances.
So bottom line - if you're a DIY'er it's absolutely mandatory to get the specs right. Whatever they are? And, if you have someone do it, make sure they know what they're doing!
Of course - just a guess.....

 

just an fyi hd has changed the design of the 07 bearing from when it was originally made available. supposedly "new and improved." hopefully that is true.

 

Actually I have seen this same problem on several 2008 models and they are Factory installed.
It's not just a problem for the 2007 bikes that have it added as an option. Nor is it a DIY or dealer installed problem.

 

Like Seffer I have over 50K on my Dealer installed IDS with no problems. Now tranny needle bearing are another story, I'm on my third set now.

 

Any specifics regarding "new and improved."

 

The part number is the same, so if the bearing changed the number didn't, which isn't the usual HD procedure. When they change a part they at least put an alpha suffix (e.g. "A") on the old number.

That said, does anyone know how much the removal/installer tool (#48921) costs? If not too expensive I might consider buying one, then buy a $90 6-ton Harbor-Freight hydraulic press.

 

Which bearing has been giving you so much trouble? I had the "double ball bearing" (#8967) go out, the one on mainshaft supporting the front pulley. The bike was 10 months out of warranty (with no extended) but it was fixed at no cost to me (except for an SE compensator upgrade). I'm wondering if this isn't a weak point in the drivetrain, as I've heard of several of these going out. The tech who did the work said that although he'd seen few failures he didn't think it was a cause for worry. They had to pull the tranny and most of the hardware in the primary, but said nothing else looked problematic.

I started getting a speed-related whine at 16k which escalated into a drone by 32k. Early on the tech road it and said it didn't sound bad enough to explore, which I agreed with, but after a second ride a year later said it needed work.