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Starting to plan my motor upgrade for this winter. Now I'/m not a big motor head so I need some input on what I should be looking at. Right now my RK custom is pretty stock other than the Stage 1 air cleaner and SE slipons. I like to run a pretty decent speed out on the highway and still have more throttle left when needed. Right now it seems to have some but would like more. Being 6-8 and 300 lbs I would also like to see some more torque also.
Here is my question, what should I look at for upgades? 95" or 103"? Cams? I know that what ever I do the stock headers will go. My bike is a Carb so that will be upgraded also. Thanks for the help.
A great build that won't hurt your wallet as bad as many, is to get your heads street ported by an outfit like http://www.bigboyzcycles.com/ Then have your cylinders bored for 95" cast flat top pistons and run an Andrews TW-37 cam.
After a good tune, most builds will yield hp in the range of 92-98 and torque at 96-104 ft/lbs...and its all available where you commonly ride. This is probably the most talked about combination I've read about in four plus years on the forums.
Seahag is on the right track. I'm a "touring" kinda rider that likes to "get on it" from time to time. Actually, pretty often. I went with the 95" kit, hi comp forged pistons, SE heads w/comp release and 511 cams and it's a whole new bike! Real world numbers from the dyno (4th gear run) are 88 hp 92 tq. Tuning has the bike air/fuel ratio almost dead flat through the range. Gas milage only dropped slightly and I believe the reliability to be virtually the same as a stock 88. While I haven't actully tried to, the bike will almost lift the front wheel off the ground. The service manager and tech who did the build says it WILL. Even my wife commented on the build... with one word. WOW! I was hoping for 90-92 hp and aroung 95 tq and knowing you can make a dyno read most anything you want, I'm VERY happy with my results. It was a little pricey at $2700 but money well spent, to me.
Depends on what you are looking for. I ride hiway long hauls (over 400) frequently, I wanted grunt and got HP as an extra by going the SE103, 110HP 105 torq. The torq is right in the mid range and you don't notice any lugging with two up and loaded. I did also go a 6 speed gear set. Had previously done stage I and performance exhaust.
The 103's and bigger are great but going to cost considerably more up front. You are not only having to buy new flywheel assemblys, but also the labor to completely tear down the motor and have the crank cases split....Sleepineagles numbers aren't much better than many 95" or 98" builds and they are a bargain by comparison.
While strokers are nice , the added expense is harder to justify. I'm with Seahag. A well built 95 with the proper torque biased cam and headwork can produce very adequate torque and HP numbers. You may also consider going to a 98", GMR sells them and does head work as well . Steve ,the owner is very good to work with. I've ridden the SE 103 and while I realize it had EPA constrictions, it was somewhat lacking at only 96lbs ft , my 95 has 100.66 lbs ft and that's with only a .510 cam.
While strokers are nice , the added expense is harder to justify. I'm with Seahag. A well built 95 with the proper torque biased cam and headwork can produce very adequate torque and HP numbers. You may also consider going to a 98", GMR sells them and does head work as well . Steve ,the owner is very good to work with. I've ridden the SE 103 and while I realize it had EPA constrictions, it was somewhat lacking at only 96lbs ft , my 95 has 100.66 lbs ft and that's with only a .510 cam.
Well hey there stranger....immagine bumping into you here too[8D] I see you've been pretty active...19 posts in one day
Last week when I picked it up after the 5000, I talked with the head service writer for awhile but man he was rattling out stuff that had me swimming a little bit. Two things I remember he said, to go to a SE 103" I would be looking at close to $5000 when done. Now this is not a problem, but if I can save a few here I can continue with my black out on the bike. This included every thing with new exhaust. The other thing he said is he can build me a very nice 95" with 100 hp at the rear wheel. He never said the cost, but he did say I would be happy with it.
Take SeaHag,Nidan,and Phil's advice and go 95 or 98,have the heads worked,gear driven cams,and don't look back.That combination will make your bike a blast to ride.
And you should save close to 2K,in comparison to the 103' he is quoting,to continue doing your blacking out or whatever else.
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