New Noise After Installing S.E. Big Twin Compensator
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: California
New Noise After Installing S.E. Big Twin Compensator
So I installed the SE Compensator last night. The install went ok; I removed the clutch assembly and loosed up the inner primary instead of grinding away at the lip to get the rotor off. Didn't have to take it completely off, just took out all the bolts and wiggled it loose about 1/2".
Buttoned it back up, and everything seems to be fine, EXCEPT for a new noise that I noticed this morning. When in a higher gear (4th, 5th), if I'm slowly cruising along with barely any throttle input, then I will sometimes get a rattling noise from the primary. Wondering what it could be. During the install, I was careful to double-check all torque of all the fasteners. So I don't think anything is loose. But I never had this noise before.
Buttoned it back up, and everything seems to be fine, EXCEPT for a new noise that I noticed this morning. When in a higher gear (4th, 5th), if I'm slowly cruising along with barely any throttle input, then I will sometimes get a rattling noise from the primary. Wondering what it could be. During the install, I was careful to double-check all torque of all the fasteners. So I don't think anything is loose. But I never had this noise before.
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I'm thinkin maybe have a look at the starter jack shaft seal... Pulling the inner casing away like that could have dislodged the seal behind the pinion gear? Not to mention the mainshaft seal and bearing. Could it have dislodged the spring from the inside of the lip seal(s)? What about the O-Ring between the inner primary and crank case? Are you certain it didn't move during the process causing it to not seat properley against the crank case? A few possibilities...
In any of these scenarios, or just in fact alone, you'll only get a few guesses as a response. Only way to be sure is to open the primary again.
Puzzles me how just loosening the inner primary aided you in removing the compensator sprocket, or what you mean by 'grinding away at the lip' to get the rotor off. For future reference, you might look into a purchasing pully/hub puller. They don't have to be HD specific specialty tools, they aren't expensive, and save from framming on parts to get them loose.
(Framming is a tecnical term used by mechanically inclined persons trained at factory institutions. To 'fram' one must own a good sized hammer, and have the physical ability to swing it with conviction!)
In any of these scenarios, or just in fact alone, you'll only get a few guesses as a response. Only way to be sure is to open the primary again.
Puzzles me how just loosening the inner primary aided you in removing the compensator sprocket, or what you mean by 'grinding away at the lip' to get the rotor off. For future reference, you might look into a purchasing pully/hub puller. They don't have to be HD specific specialty tools, they aren't expensive, and save from framming on parts to get them loose.
(Framming is a tecnical term used by mechanically inclined persons trained at factory institutions. To 'fram' one must own a good sized hammer, and have the physical ability to swing it with conviction!)
Last edited by CroK; Oct 28, 2009 at 02:44 PM.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 880
Likes: 81
From: California
I'm thinkin maybe have a look at the starter jack shaft seal... Pulling the inner casing away like that could have dislodged the seal behind the pinion gear? Not to mention the mainshaft seal and bearing. Could it have dislodged the spring from the inside of the lip seal(s)? What about the O-Ring between the inner primary and crank case? Are you certain it didn't move during the process causing it to not seat properley against the crank case? A few possibilities...
In any of these scenarios, or just in fact alone, you'll only get a few guesses as a response. Only way to be sure is to open the primary again.
Puzzles me how just loosening the inner primary aided you in removing the compensator sprocket, or what you mean by 'grinding away at the lip' to get the rotor off. For future reference, you might look into a purchasing pully/hub puller. They don't have to be HD specific specialty tools, they aren't expensive, and save from framming on parts to get them loose.
(Framming is a tecnical term used by mechanically inclined persons trained at factory institutions. To 'fram' one must own a good sized hammer, and have the physical ability to swing it with conviction!)
In any of these scenarios, or just in fact alone, you'll only get a few guesses as a response. Only way to be sure is to open the primary again.
Puzzles me how just loosening the inner primary aided you in removing the compensator sprocket, or what you mean by 'grinding away at the lip' to get the rotor off. For future reference, you might look into a purchasing pully/hub puller. They don't have to be HD specific specialty tools, they aren't expensive, and save from framming on parts to get them loose.
(Framming is a tecnical term used by mechanically inclined persons trained at factory institutions. To 'fram' one must own a good sized hammer, and have the physical ability to swing it with conviction!)
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From: New England
Upon removing the chain case cover, I didn't notice anything unusual but was able to pull up on the chain tensioner getting one more "click" out of it. That took up some slack in the chain and seems to have cured the noise.
Hope that helps!
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Road Master
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From: California
Thanks Pine Tree. I'm going to run the living pee out of it later today to see if that does any good. If its the chain tensioner that you mention, then maybe running it hard will cause it to self-adjust a little. If not then I'll take off the primary cover to inspect.
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From: New England
IMHO, the spring on the shoe is too weak and just the weight of the chain may not allow it to fully adjust.
Good luck!
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It is most certainly the chain tensioner. It will adjust itself if all is good there. Spank it hard a few times in 1st and then quickly back off the throttle without clutching it. Do it again in 2nd. Wind it tite and quickly get off the gas and leave the clutch out and let the engine brake the bike.
You can't reach the chain thru the derby cover to pry up on it, so do it with engine torque and engine braking.
You can't reach the chain thru the derby cover to pry up on it, so do it with engine torque and engine braking.
Last edited by oinker02; Nov 12, 2009 at 12:41 AM.
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Road Master
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From: California
So I took my bike out at lunch time and rode the living **** out of it for a good 15 minutes (after warm-up, of course). Did a few full-throttle starts in 1st gear up to near the rev limiter, and then allowed the engine to slow it down. After that, I didn't notice the sound anymore.
Even so, when I got home tonight, I removed the primary cover again. Checked the torque on sprocket and clutch, both were good. I did force the wedge on the tensioner up 1 more notch. Chain seemed properly tensioned, although I probably wouldn't know otherwise. Buttoned everything back up and did a full readjust of the clutch.
Took it out for another 15 minute ride tonight, and again didn't notice the noise anymore. Hopefully it's fixed, but only time will tell.
On to my observations of the Screamin' Eagle Bit Twin Compensator... This is my 1st HD, and I've had it for 1 year now. All along I though the noise from the primary was just the nature of the beast. Well I'm now pleasantly surprised to hear less primary noise and more exhaust note. It also seems to have smoothed out some of the vibrations, but it also caused new vibrations at different RPM's. But the new vibrations are good IMO, as it created more of a rumble in the seat when I really get on the throttle. I like it! And of course, all start-up knock is now gone. Speaking of that, I have repeatedly read on this forum about the start-up knock, but I didn't think mine did it. It wasn't until I installed the SE Compensator that I noticed that the noise was no longer there.
Even so, when I got home tonight, I removed the primary cover again. Checked the torque on sprocket and clutch, both were good. I did force the wedge on the tensioner up 1 more notch. Chain seemed properly tensioned, although I probably wouldn't know otherwise. Buttoned everything back up and did a full readjust of the clutch.
Took it out for another 15 minute ride tonight, and again didn't notice the noise anymore. Hopefully it's fixed, but only time will tell.
On to my observations of the Screamin' Eagle Bit Twin Compensator... This is my 1st HD, and I've had it for 1 year now. All along I though the noise from the primary was just the nature of the beast. Well I'm now pleasantly surprised to hear less primary noise and more exhaust note. It also seems to have smoothed out some of the vibrations, but it also caused new vibrations at different RPM's. But the new vibrations are good IMO, as it created more of a rumble in the seat when I really get on the throttle. I like it! And of course, all start-up knock is now gone. Speaking of that, I have repeatedly read on this forum about the start-up knock, but I didn't think mine did it. It wasn't until I installed the SE Compensator that I noticed that the noise was no longer there.