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Striped Shift Lever

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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 06:36 PM
  #11  
2003Springer's Avatar
2003Springer
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Use air grinder to expand the gap on the shift leaver. use a case hardened bolt. Sound reasonable?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #12  
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I had my toe shifter strip out. I just removed my heel shifter and
reinstalled it in the 'toe' position.
Whenever I hear the idea of removing the heel shifter....I hope that person keeps it near (saddlebag).
I was able to continue riding in Maggie Valley by using the heel shifter 'up-front'.

chuck the mensh
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 07:00 PM
  #13  
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The rear shifter arm is made form pot metal for a reason. Better to replace that , than the shaft running into the tranny. With all of the shaking, something will wear out eventually. Best thing to wear will be the shifter arm.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 07:37 PM
  #14  
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i always carry a small pair of vise gripps u can clamp em on to get ya home even ued em on the brken end of the clutch cable took off the lever and they sat right in place of the lever got me home.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 09:34 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by TMair
Not true, when my wife and I went to the grand canyon this summer I stripped the heal shifter, I thought the same thing but I had to crank on the allen bolt to get it loose, so I guess the softer metal in the shifters can just ware out!!!
Terry
FYI: The shift lever splines will only wear if the lever has been allowed to come loose and vibrate on the shaft. You will have a false sense of security if you only check the bolt for torque since the factory uses loctite on them. The bolts should be removed and anti-seize applied to ensure the lever is tight on the splines. I lost a lever years ago but have never lost another since going to anti-seize. It's one of the first things I do when I get a new or used bike home.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 10:40 AM
  #16  
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see my note to toe shifter failed, hopefully it helps
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 11:16 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 2003Springer
Use air grinder to expand the gap on the shift leaver. use a case hardened bolt. Sound reasonable?
I thought about this but what about rust. I guess can put a little chrome paint on.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 12:48 PM
  #18  
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Why didn't you just remove the heel shifter and switch to become the front shifter?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 04:20 PM
  #19  
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Default Same thing happened to 2 buddies last week

Just this last week, two of my buddies had their shifters stripped out on a trip back from Daytona. According to both of them, the shifter was loose to begin with. And then you add all the shifting in and around Daytona for Bike Week and the ride to and from the NC mountains - and it was just too much for the splines on the shifter to handle.

Important! You need to make sure that you check to see that the screw holding your shifter on is snugged up tightly all the time. AND, if your shifter peg is worn - replace it before you leave and end up wrecking your trip.

I also recommend if you are unsure about your shifter - replace it with an after-market billet shifter. They seem to machine them to high standards and use quality materials.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 04:36 PM
  #20  
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It is one of the things I check often, after my toe shifter dropped down and locked the bike in 5th gear, the bolt was at such an angle I couldn't get the wrench on it and I was only 3 miles from home. Almost made it up my drive, the bike stalled and I ended up breaking the shaft that the shifter mounts on. I tried several things to get it loose and off, but when the breaker bar came out something had to give and the shaft did. I use the heel shifter now and carry a spare one I bought in my saddle bag. The rear shift lever also stripped out and I had tightened it several times. They are made of a softer metal than the shafts and will over time wear out. The rear one is a pain and can be expensive to change if you let the dealers do it. I was quoted over 300.00 to change it out. I did it myself by renting my indy's lift and occasional help for 100.00. So I figure I got a good deal.

Joe
 
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