Wow!!!!!!!
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 666
Likes: 5
From: Bay Area, CA
Welcome and congrats! I have a 2009 RK Police and it's awesome. You will appreciate that pumped motor. One thing to keep in mind is that if you go with a top case, you may have to add a spacer because of the speed openers on the police saddlebags. At least that is how is on my model.
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 279
Likes: 1
From: NW Ohio
Well......... You wanted the bad.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,051
Likes: 50
From: Florence, MT (Bitterroot Valley)
Sounds like a pretty dang good Christmas for YOU this year. And what did YOU get your WIFE-EE?? Better be something she really wanted to pay the debt!! Congrats.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,639
Likes: 817
There's a couple of bearing issues, depending on your engine
manufacture date; and some other cam chest concerns.
1. The bolt used to attach the drive sprocket to the rear cam could loosen and cause the rotational force to shear the cast key of the sprocket, causing engine failure. The design was changed to the splined setup that's used now, as well as a bigger bolt. Mine never had an issue, but the condition does exist.
2. The bearing used in the cam support plate for both the front and the rear camshaft was originally a ball bearing. The rear bearing failed due to the extra loading and the design was changed to use a roller bearing for the rear only.
3. The inner cam bearing is an INA manufactured one, with rollers spaced apart by a steel stamped "cage". Many here (myself included) prefer the Torrington bearing that has more rollers without the steel spacing cage.
4. The cam chain tensioners are a wear item, and seem to wear inconsistently. I pulled mine at 38k, and they were worn, but still OK, others have had them disintegrate much earlier, and cause lots of engine damage by being ingested into the
A: oil pump and scarring the cam support plate with a resultant loss of oil pressure
B: cam bearings
C: crank bearings
These are the worst case scenarios, and many have had their bikes run long and trouble free.
I weighed the options, and decided a gear drive and all new bearings was the best route for me. You have to pull everything out anyway just to change the rear cam support plate bearing, and to me it made sense to get the biggest bang for the buck by doing all the cam chest work at one time.
YMMV. __________________
manufacture date; and some other cam chest concerns.1. The bolt used to attach the drive sprocket to the rear cam could loosen and cause the rotational force to shear the cast key of the sprocket, causing engine failure. The design was changed to the splined setup that's used now, as well as a bigger bolt. Mine never had an issue, but the condition does exist.
2. The bearing used in the cam support plate for both the front and the rear camshaft was originally a ball bearing. The rear bearing failed due to the extra loading and the design was changed to use a roller bearing for the rear only.
3. The inner cam bearing is an INA manufactured one, with rollers spaced apart by a steel stamped "cage". Many here (myself included) prefer the Torrington bearing that has more rollers without the steel spacing cage.
4. The cam chain tensioners are a wear item, and seem to wear inconsistently. I pulled mine at 38k, and they were worn, but still OK, others have had them disintegrate much earlier, and cause lots of engine damage by being ingested into the
A: oil pump and scarring the cam support plate with a resultant loss of oil pressure
B: cam bearings
C: crank bearings
These are the worst case scenarios, and many have had their bikes run long and trouble free.
I weighed the options, and decided a gear drive and all new bearings was the best route for me. You have to pull everything out anyway just to change the rear cam support plate bearing, and to me it made sense to get the biggest bang for the buck by doing all the cam chest work at one time.
YMMV. __________________
