Great write up.

 

Very good write up!

 

Nice work, would be nice to string these together when you are done.

 

Great write-up! Having done this job last March I have a few comments:

I also used Beatty's tool and it is well-made at a great price. I've heard that he may be renting this tool now, so if you're doing a one-time bearing swap this may be your most economical option. If he is, could someone verify this?

Here is a thread where you can read feedback on this tool. Keep in mind that he sells three separate tools: Evo (3/4" bearing), early TC (7/8" bearing), and later-model TC's (1" bearing). You may need to register with HTT before being able to read the thread.

I agree. As long as you're in there, just replace them with a better bearing, even if the INA's on TC96's aren't known to fail often. All performance cams have higher lift than stock and that puts extra strain on the bearings, so IMO just do it right!


The locking tool is a convenience device but isn't really necessary. Instead, you can put the bike in gear and have someone hold the rear brake pedal while removing and later re-installing these bolts.

Labeling parts can't be over-stressed. Aric used plastic bags to keep things organized, and I used a folding table and placed a label (masking tape) next to each part in the order it was removed.

Where did you use the assembly lube? I just used fresh motor oil as per the manual.

Mine was left undisturbed as I didn't see the point in removing it. I did the centering procedure as you did but didn't use alignment pins as some do, as these are not mentioned in my manual.

It can't be stressed too much that proper re-assembly of the oil pump and install of o-rings (including the two in the cam plate) is vitally important. If you pinch one or let one fall out during assembly you will be looking at problems later on, like sumping that will mean another disassembly to fix.

Mine slipped right in too, and I don't know why you would even need the alignment tool. I guess it may make the job a bit easier and if you do several cam jobs a week it might be worth the investment. For a one-time job I think it is overkill.

I used blue Loctite on all bolts, although my '07 manual doesn't even mention using it at all, either red or blue.

Mine was miraculously right on the money, so the stock spacer was used. I didn't measure it, but the manual said it was .10". Obviously this varies, as you've shown us, since yours was .11".

Some just buy the spacer kit for <$10 and have it ready just in case, so they don't have to make a trip to the dealer in the middle of the job. I rolled the dice and was lucky that I didn't need another spacer.

It really isn't hard at all, and the only PITA part was removing/installing the exhaust system, which is always an adventure. In my case I also had to remove/install the rocker clovers, plates, and breather plates, which added 2-3 hours to the job but negated the need for adjustable pushrods (~$150). That part is very tedious and I understand why most people decide to go the adjustable-pushrod route. That said, once it is done it is done, and there is no worry about the pushrods getting out of adjustment.

Again, great job. This should give confidence to even more people to do their own cam jobs.

 

Once again, thanks for the amazing detail. You make me wish I had the knowledge, tools and patience to do more than read about your project.

 

Very nice job documenting with photo's. Enjoy the ride.

 

As everyone has said great job and write up. Atrain you da man! Thanks!

 

Awesome write up and pics!

 

Great write-up and pics, this will come in handy when I do mine. This is really helpful. One thing I would like to see is a writeup on using the stock push rods (removing the rocker covers, etc......)

Anyone have one of those?

 

Thanks again for the replies. I will continue the project tomorrow. To answer a couple of questions. I decided to pull the oil pump so I could get some extra wrench swing when I was removing the bearings. Besides, since I am replacing O-Rings, I figured I would replace all of them. The oil pump pulls right out so it is no big deal.

iClick, you are right. The manual does state to use motor oil and makes no mention of assembly lube. The lubrication qualities of assembly lube, IMO, gives all parts an extra slick coating that sticks to all metal parts. I coated the entire cam, cam plate bores, inner bearings, sprockets, chains, and tensioners with oil first and then a good coat of lube. It's good insurance. I highly recommend the assembly lube - and it is cheap.

Red Loctite is specified in the "08 Touring Manual for the cam and crank sprocket bolts. I used blue loctite on everything else.

When using Gary Beatty's tool I recommend oiling all the tool threads before extracting the bearing. It makes turning the big 3/4 inch nut easier and probably reduces the risk of metal shavings from the threads.

The job can be done without the locking tool, but for $22 I think it makes the job easier if you are working solo.

When I wrap the project up I will try and put everything into one thread. I will also list the parts I used, and list the must have tools.

As I mentioned, I am not a mechanic, but if you are on the fence, I do have some good commentary to help you decide if you want to do this project. I will post that in my final thread as well.

Merry Christmas everyone!
A