Cam Project Final Write-Up
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
Cam Project Final Write-Up
Day 1 Here
Day 2 Here
Day 3 Here
Day 4 Here
Here is the final write up of the cam project for days one through four. The links above will take you to each day of the project and all the responses. I wanted to put everything in one post, but the forum limits the number of pictures and links for each post. More importantly, I felt there were many excellent posts in these threads that I don't want to get lost because I cut and paste four threads into one.
First here is a big thanks to everyone on the forum who expressed their support and especially those who helped with some great feedback. I had no idea there would be this much interest.
As you read through these posts, I want to be clear I am not a mechanic. I'm just a guy who likes do his own maintenance and occasional project. I thought long and hard before doing this project. I didn't want to get in too deep or spend more time and money than the dealer would ask for in the first place. I have basic mechanical skills, a modest set of tools, and the experience to know that no project goes smoothly.
As you read through each day of this project I will explain the best I can, how the project went, the mistakes I made, and some of the learning experiences I picked up.
I think most people with basic mechanical experience can successfully do this job if you have the right tools and you are prepared to take your time.
The Cam:
I chose a Woods TW6-6 cam. Like many, I agonized over what cams to purchase. There were many good posts on the subject. iClick had a series of posts that made a compelling case for the SE-255. FuelMoto had a post talking about going in the Woods direction. Long story short, I think you can't make a bad decision going with either cam. For my riding style, my research led me to believe the Woods was a good decision for me.
I had a lot of requests to talk about the tools and parts needed for this project. Here is a list of the tools I believe should be available for this project:
The biggest challenge and time consumer was getting the stock exhaust on and off. You have to take your time and take great care not to damage the exhaust port studs. The easiest and most interesting part of the project was the actual cam swap and bearing replacement. I was surprised how easy this part of the project was.
I made one mistake when installing the push rods and it was probably because I tired and not taking my time. The mistake was actually a very good learning experience because I picked up some good techniques on how to get the bike to TDC compression quickly and without second guessing. As a result, I was able to quickly and confidently install the push rods correctly.
The best decision I made was taking my time and spreading this project over four days. I wanted to take the time to do the job right and to really understand the mechanics of this project.
There were a few questions and tips that came up during the project:
Use of red loctite on the cam and crank sprocket bolts is called for in the services manual. I used a little bit of red Loctite, but I don't think it matters if you use blue or even none at all. Those bolts are torqued fairly well and I don't think Loctite is going to be single source of failure.
The service manual states that cam spacers should have their writing facing inside. Mine faced outward so that is how I reinstalled everything. Frankly this is complete mystery.
If the cam and crank alignment dots are lined up, does this mean the lifters are off the cam lobe? No it does not. We had some really good posts on this. The lifters are off the cam lobes slightly before, during, and after TDC which apparently is not when the alignment dots are all lined up.
The use of assembly lube - is it really needed? With a good coat of oil it might not be, but with new bare metal parts being installed, the extra protection is good insurance.
Which adjustable push rod? Tapered adjustable. Why? Dawg said so.
There may be other questions floating around out there, so lets see where this thread takes us.
Thanks again to everyone on the forum for your support.
Day 2 Here
Day 3 Here
Day 4 Here
Here is the final write up of the cam project for days one through four. The links above will take you to each day of the project and all the responses. I wanted to put everything in one post, but the forum limits the number of pictures and links for each post. More importantly, I felt there were many excellent posts in these threads that I don't want to get lost because I cut and paste four threads into one.
First here is a big thanks to everyone on the forum who expressed their support and especially those who helped with some great feedback. I had no idea there would be this much interest.
As you read through these posts, I want to be clear I am not a mechanic. I'm just a guy who likes do his own maintenance and occasional project. I thought long and hard before doing this project. I didn't want to get in too deep or spend more time and money than the dealer would ask for in the first place. I have basic mechanical skills, a modest set of tools, and the experience to know that no project goes smoothly.
As you read through each day of this project I will explain the best I can, how the project went, the mistakes I made, and some of the learning experiences I picked up.
I think most people with basic mechanical experience can successfully do this job if you have the right tools and you are prepared to take your time.
The Cam:
I chose a Woods TW6-6 cam. Like many, I agonized over what cams to purchase. There were many good posts on the subject. iClick had a series of posts that made a compelling case for the SE-255. FuelMoto had a post talking about going in the Woods direction. Long story short, I think you can't make a bad decision going with either cam. For my riding style, my research led me to believe the Woods was a good decision for me.
I had a lot of requests to talk about the tools and parts needed for this project. Here is a list of the tools I believe should be available for this project:
- Lift - You have to rotate the rear wheel and it is a big time saver opposed to other methods.
- HD Service Manual
- A good socket set with 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch socket wrenches
- Torque Wrench for in/lbs and a Torque Wrench for ft/lbs
- 8-12 inch socket extension for the 3/8 socket wrench
- 1/2 inch flex socket - the kind the swivels to any angle - not universal adapter that you put a stock socket on. This is for the exhaust stud bolts
- Snap Clip Pliers - There is only one snap clip but without this tool you will spend way to much time trying to remove and install.
- 1/2 inch and 5/16 inch open end wrench (Two 1/2 inch wrenches helps with the adjustable push rod installation)
- Torx socket kit including a T-27
- Hex socket kit
- Rubber Mallet
- Usual compliment of screwdrivers
- Straight edge ruler - plastic or metal
- Feeler Gauge
- Bearing remover and installer
- Bolt Cutter - If you replace with adjustable push rods
- Blue Loctite
- Red Loctite
- Anti-Seize
- PB Blaster
- Georges Garage or HD Crank/Cam Locking tool
- 20W50 motor oil of your choice
- Black Zip Ties
- Zip Lock Baggies for parts
- Sharpie Permanent Marker to mark the bags
- Georges Garage or Motion Pro Push rod clip remover/installer
- Permatex Copper Gasket Sealer - some like this for exhaust joints
- Copper Brush
- Lucas Assembly Lube
- Box of shop rags
- Plastic Straw
- Hex wrench kit - the "L" shaped variety not the sockets or long shank variety
- Magnetic lifter holders - can be purchased at the dealer
- Cams - Obviously!
- HD tapered adjustable quick install push rods
- I don't have the part numbers but you will need the three o-rings for the cam plate and oil pump
- Cam cover gasket
- Timken Torrington Bearings - verify you get the right kind for your model year
- Stock exhaust port gaskets - Not the SE variety
- Cam Spacer - No way to know which size until you are doing the project
- TORCA Clamps for the exhaust joints
- You don't need the expensive cam installation kit. Just get what you need at the parts counter. It is a lot cheaper.
The biggest challenge and time consumer was getting the stock exhaust on and off. You have to take your time and take great care not to damage the exhaust port studs. The easiest and most interesting part of the project was the actual cam swap and bearing replacement. I was surprised how easy this part of the project was.
I made one mistake when installing the push rods and it was probably because I tired and not taking my time. The mistake was actually a very good learning experience because I picked up some good techniques on how to get the bike to TDC compression quickly and without second guessing. As a result, I was able to quickly and confidently install the push rods correctly.
The best decision I made was taking my time and spreading this project over four days. I wanted to take the time to do the job right and to really understand the mechanics of this project.
There were a few questions and tips that came up during the project:
Use of red loctite on the cam and crank sprocket bolts is called for in the services manual. I used a little bit of red Loctite, but I don't think it matters if you use blue or even none at all. Those bolts are torqued fairly well and I don't think Loctite is going to be single source of failure.
The service manual states that cam spacers should have their writing facing inside. Mine faced outward so that is how I reinstalled everything. Frankly this is complete mystery.
If the cam and crank alignment dots are lined up, does this mean the lifters are off the cam lobe? No it does not. We had some really good posts on this. The lifters are off the cam lobes slightly before, during, and after TDC which apparently is not when the alignment dots are all lined up.
The use of assembly lube - is it really needed? With a good coat of oil it might not be, but with new bare metal parts being installed, the extra protection is good insurance.
Which adjustable push rod? Tapered adjustable. Why? Dawg said so.
There may be other questions floating around out there, so lets see where this thread takes us.
Thanks again to everyone on the forum for your support.
Last edited by atrain68; Dec 13, 2011 at 07:26 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 0
From: McHenry, IL
Again, well done. I could have not put it better myself. In fact I know I can't. This stuff comes to me naturally, most of the time, but I can not sit and explain it to people. I am going to copy this entire thread and use it as a tool for my friends that ask me the same question.
Last edited by fairplay; Dec 31, 2009 at 01:25 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 162
Likes: 1
From: Mass.
I have 2 questions. I've read in other posts that some have used locktite on the adj. push rod lock nuts and was wondering if you did?
Also, just curious as what finally pushed you over to the Woods cam. I'm hoping to do the same project with the FuelMoto package in the next year as $$ permits and am torn between the 2 cams. In all the other threads I've read they seem to come out fairly equal.
Thanks again for one of the best cam install threads I've read here, great job!
Also, just curious as what finally pushed you over to the Woods cam. I'm hoping to do the same project with the FuelMoto package in the next year as $$ permits and am torn between the 2 cams. In all the other threads I've read they seem to come out fairly equal.
Thanks again for one of the best cam install threads I've read here, great job!
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,045
Likes: 36
From: ST. Louis
I'm no wrench when it comes to motor work, so I had my dealer write up an estimate to put in some 255 cams.
To make a long story short, the $300 cams installed (with all the extra crap you need, plus labor) ended up being $1,500...
PhilM will do my entire motor (cams, dyno, tune, 103) for 2 grand. I guess I'm stuck with stock................
To make a long story short, the $300 cams installed (with all the extra crap you need, plus labor) ended up being $1,500...
PhilM will do my entire motor (cams, dyno, tune, 103) for 2 grand. I guess I'm stuck with stock................
Last edited by Texas Fat Boy; Dec 31, 2009 at 08:32 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, GA
I have 2 questions. I've read in other posts that some have used locktite on the adj. push rod lock nuts and was wondering if you did?
Also, just curious as what finally pushed you over to the Woods cam. I'm hoping to do the same project with the FuelMoto package in the next year as $$ permits and am torn between the 2 cams. In all the other threads I've read they seem to come out fairly equal.
Thanks again for one of the best cam install threads I've read here, great job!
Also, just curious as what finally pushed you over to the Woods cam. I'm hoping to do the same project with the FuelMoto package in the next year as $$ permits and am torn between the 2 cams. In all the other threads I've read they seem to come out fairly equal.
Thanks again for one of the best cam install threads I've read here, great job!
I also read that others used loctite on their push rod lock nuts. I chose not to because I felt hand tight was enough.
What pushed me over the edge on the Woods cam was FuelMoto's recent write-up about using the TW6-6 as part of a larger package. Also, they had some excellent results on the dyno. The TQ curve looked real strong through the mid-range and it looked like that it was going to give peak power in the range that meets my riding style. It helped that FuelMoto is going in this direction. They have excellent reputation and they know this business well.