I finally have some time to update the project. Here is where we left off.




As you can see everything is back together in the cam chest and now its time to work on the adjustable push rods.

This particularly easy task was where I made my first mistake and added a lot of unnecessary time. The honest version is I had to install the push rods twice. The first time they didn't feel like they were adjusted right. I couldn't pinpoint the problem, so I had to stop and think this through.

My advice is absolutely need to make sure the cylinder you are working on is on TDC compression. Both lifters need to be all the way down. If they are not then you will run into some problems.

During this project I learned it is not wise to assume you are at TDC compression; always double check that you are. I know we are talking basics here but its worth a review.

When you do your project, take a moment to rotate your rear wheel and watch the lifters move up and down so you can get a sense of their positions.

You need to make sure you are actually on the compression stroke. There are two easy ways to do this. One trick is to put your finger over the spark plug hole and wait until air blows out. This only works if the push rods are installed. Without the push rods, the valves are closed.

When installing pushrods, I learned the easiest trick is to watch the opposite cylinder's lifter position. For example, let's say you are working on the front cylinder. Rotate your rear wheel and watch the rear cylinder's lifters rise and fall. You will see a point where the intake (inside) lifter will rise at the same timed the exhaust (outside) lifter falls. This is called overlap. When you get to this point, stop. Move to the front cylinder with your straw and adjust so that the piston is at or near the top of the cylinder. Now that you have done this, you are at TDC compression. To double check, shine a flashlight on the front cylinder's lifters and verify both lifters are all the way down. What you will accomplish is both lifters will be off the cam lobes and as far down as they go. This is the point where you adjust your pushrods.

If you are using brand new lifters, soak them in oil first. While soaking use your pinky finger or a pushrod to gently press the plunger inside the lifter. This will suck oil into the lifter. The plunger will feel firmer and this is what you want when you install and adjust pushrods.

I found the bottom half of the web page really helped:
http://www.bigboyzheadporting.com/showthread.php?t=131

Once you get past this, the rest is easy. I used the SE tapered adjustable quick install push rods. They are definitely quick installs.



First, use a rubber band or clothes line clip to keep the push rod covers from getting in the way. I use a rubber band an supported the cover using any bolt that was nearby.

With the push rods, the adjustment end faces down. Insert the top of the push rod into the head and using a 5/16 wrench hold the bottom of the push rod on the flats of the threaded adjustable portion. Rotate the push rod with your fingers so the threaded portion of the push rod begins to extend itself. Spin the locknut up so it remains accessible. At first you need to be careful not to spin the locknut in the wrong direction, or it will come off and fall into the cam chest. No, it didn't happen to me, but it was close.

Here you can see my 5/16 wrench on the threaded flats. The half inch push rod nut is right above it. The locknut is right below the wrench.



As you progress the push rod will extend and seat in the middle of the lifter. At this point you should have no up/down play. Rotate the whole push rod so you can see the alignment dot. Use your 5/16 wrench on the flats and a 1/2 inch wrench on the push rod. Tighten 2.5 turns. Once you get there, stop and make sure you tighten the locknut right there.

UPDATED: If you are using the Woods TW6-6 cam you might get increased valve train noise with only 2.5 turns. If you use the 255's then I'd recommend going with 2.5 turns unless you get professional advice otherwise. I exchanged some emails with Bob Wood and he stated that he recommends trying 3.5 turns with his TW6-6 cams. I readjusted at 3.5 turns and the value train noise reduced somewhat. Bob Wood also sells his version of lifters which he stated will reduce valve train noise. I might upgrade the lifters if I upgrade the engine, but everything sounds good without them.

Start with the intake push rod (inside) and finish with the exhaust push rod (outside). The push rods are clearly marked for intake and exhaust. The push rods are different lengths.

When you finish with the first two push rods, go take a break for a half hour. Do not rotate the engine at this point. During your break the lifters will bleed down. When you come back you should be able to spin the push rods with your fingers. If you can't spin them, then wait longer and see what happens. If you skip this step you risk major damage to the engine.

Now that the push rods spin with your fingers, rotate the engine to TDC compression on the rear cylinder and repeat.

A couple of final notes regarding the push rods. Just because your cam dots line up, this does not mean you are at TDC. I assumed that this is what they meant and I was wrong. Like I said, I'm not a mechanic.

By far the exhaust was the biggest PITA of the project. Getting everything reinstalled with the cross over is always a challenge. I highly recommend coating the exhaust port studs with anti-seize. I've heard too many horror stories about seized bolts on the studs so why take a chance? Also, I recommend you use new exhaust port stud bolts. You can get a set of four from the HD parts counter for cheap.



Don't forget to replace the exhaust gaskets. I recommend the stock version. They usually seal the first time. I read a post that if you spray the gaskets with WD-40 they are easier to install. I tried this method and it worked. Remember, install with the concave side out.

Here is a shot of the exhaust going back on:



And finally the whole thing:



Next, you have to install those awful push rod cover clips. I really disliked this part of the project. You have a few options to make this job easier. I use a large screwdriver to press down the spring while pushing the push rod clip in. Remember you have to install the clip top first and then slide the bottom in. Here is the approximate angle of the screw driver while installing the clips.



Place the push rod clip in top first and then slide the bottom of the clip along the shank of the screwdriver until installed. This method gives you an excellent chance of bloody knuckles.

OR

You can buy a special tool from Georges Garage or Motion-Pro. I thank the posters who recommended these tools. Although I used the screwdriver approach, I will definitely use the GG or Motion Pro tool next time.

UPDATED: I bought the Georges Garage tool and used it when I readjusted my pushrods. This tool makes installing the push rod clips very easy and without bloody knuckles. I coated the end of the tool with a little bit of oil so the push rod clip slides into place easily. I highly recommend one of these tools for your the toolbox.

So, now I'm ready to get the spark plugs back in. I used a little bit of anti-seize on the threads and torqued to 12 ft/lbs. I put the tranny in neutral, did a quick walk-around.

I loaded the new PCV map that FuelMoto sent me. Rotated the ignition to start - my heart was pounding at this point. And...



The bike fired up the first time and with no effort! I let it run for fifteen minutes to warm up and get the oil circulating. I cracked the throttle a few times and it runs great. No exhaust leaks, no oil spraying everywhere, and no cams flying out the side of the bike.

It runs a little louder and with a great sounding lope. Unfortunately there is still some ice and salt in the roads so the test ride will have to wait.

All I have to do is put the cosmetic stuff back on the bike and I am done.

This was a great experience and I am glad that I did this project. I hope these posts were insightful to everyone. A final write-up will follow.

 

bravo! Now, what took so long? real bikers don't celebrate holidays.

well done, thanks

 

Great write up on this whole project. Hope to be doing this soon!!

 

Thanks for the series. I've got the Stage 1 from Fuel Moto coming for my RG and depending on how your cams perform, I might go the same way. Please post a follow-up report on performance or any tuning. Thanks again.

 

Excellent job!!!
I wanna do cams in the spring after old man winter gets lost.
And a SEST or something.

 

Nice work and thanks for the writeup!

 

Thanks - Great Job!

 

I can only think of one thing that feels better than the engine starting right up after a project like this . Good job!

 

Very Good job. Enjoy, excellent write up on the entire project

 

I have been following your progress as the days went by. Your carefull work and attention to detail was first class.

I catch myself getting in a hurry to get things done and I have to make myself slow down and do it right the first time. I would say you did it right the first time.

Thank you for taking the time to do this for all of us.