When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've done so much research on this subject talking to numerous engine builders and an old buddy who use to own a magnaflux shop and who was also an amateur drag racer. Fact is "break-in" really just comes down to properly seating the piston rings. Only way to seat the piston rings is upward and downward force on the rings in the first couple miles of a newly built engine (i.e. 20-50miles). Easiest way to ensure upward and downward force is warming the bike up at the dealer, locate the nearest long road or parking lot take that baby up to 40-50mph in first gear (i.e., downward force on the rings) and let the engine brake the bike (i.e. upward force on the rings) till you absolutely need to pull the clutch do that 3-4 times you're set, then follow the owners manual for typical break in. It is amazing how much power is lost if the piston rings aren't properly seated, not to mention oil loss between normal oil change intervals.
Some people I have talked with recommend changing the oil after approx 50miles but I always change at 100miles then again at 500miles. I do this break in for all my vehicles, hasn't failed me yet.
My dealership had their own break in procedure that was lower rpm's than the manual. I followed what they said. It was hard and seemed like it took forever, almost 2 days. I had my 1k dyno and new pipes the next week. Stick with what the manual says. Theres a lot going on in there and give it time to break in. That why its called break in.
I got my 2010 RK a week ago and the dealer service guys told me to take it easy, use variable speeds, keep it under 70 and keep the revs low for the first 500 miles.
When I bought my 09 Flhx, my salesman as well a few others told me to take it easy for the first 50 miles....after that, start riding the way you want to ride it but not over 3500rpm. The key factor to breaking new motors is to keep it in a fairly low gear for a while (2nd or 3rd) bring it up to 3500 or just below and let the motor wind down. The compression on acceleration and the back pressure on decel are key to seating the rings properly and everything else in the motor....I did that with my 09 for about 100 miles after the first 50 and it runs like a bat outta hell. After the 100 miles of hard accel/decel, I started running it on the highway and back roads where I was constantly twisting the throttle for about another 50-70 miles, then I rode it like I stole it. currently it is bone stock except for my V&H ovals mufflers. Good luck
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.