Brass Fairing Inserts (pics)
Here is a repair kit with video showing how to use them...
http://www.baercoil.com/en/instructions_baerfix.html
http://www.baercoil.com/en/instructions_baerfix.html
Last edited by HogAir; Nov 23, 2013 at 07:35 PM.
Everyone here is convinced to put the slotted end in first. I disagree, go to kimballmidwest.com look up the threaded inserts and open the instruction file it says to use a screwdriver (the correct size one mind you) or use a double nutted bolt. Youre only going in 3/8-1/2" in plastic even, its not rocket science.
So to reiterate what should be obvious if you have any inkling of engineering knowledge (not everyone does and that is understood)... slotted end FIRST.
Thread-Locking Slotted Inserts for Metals
Also known as E-Z Lok inserts, these come with Loctite® adhesive on their external threads to keep them in place. The adhesive reaches full strength after 72 hours and resists pressure up to 6,000 psi.
Black-phosphate steel inserts have the strength of steel combined with a black-phosphate coating for mild rust resistance and lubricity. 18-8 stainless steel inserts have excellent corrosion resistance and may be mildly magnetic.
Install inserts in a tapped hole using a slotted screwdriver or a wrench, bolt, and locknut. To save time during high-volume installations, use a power driver (sold separately).
For those of you that couldn't find any info. Here's is what I posted on another thread.
It states you can install with a screwdriver or a dbl nutted bolt. If the rap cuts the threads why would the insert need to cut the threads? This pic happens to have lock tight on it but they're available without any in addition to inserts for wood.
Also known as E-Z Lok inserts, these come with Loctite® adhesive on their external threads to keep them in place. The adhesive reaches full strength after 72 hours and resists pressure up to 6,000 psi.
Black-phosphate steel inserts have the strength of steel combined with a black-phosphate coating for mild rust resistance and lubricity. 18-8 stainless steel inserts have excellent corrosion resistance and may be mildly magnetic.
Install inserts in a tapped hole using a slotted screwdriver or a wrench, bolt, and locknut. To save time during high-volume installations, use a power driver (sold separately).
For those of you that couldn't find any info. Here's is what I posted on another thread.
It states you can install with a screwdriver or a dbl nutted bolt. If the rap cuts the threads why would the insert need to cut the threads? This pic happens to have lock tight on it but they're available without any in addition to inserts for wood.
Last edited by bagman1; Nov 24, 2013 at 09:51 AM.
Thread-Locking Slotted Inserts for Metals
Also known as E-Z Lok inserts, these come with Loctite® adhesive on their external threads to keep them in place. The adhesive reaches full strength after 72 hours and resists pressure up to 6,000 psi.
Black-phosphate steel inserts have the strength of steel combined with a black-phosphate coating for mild rust resistance and lubricity. 18-8 stainless steel inserts have excellent corrosion resistance and may be mildly magnetic.
Install inserts in a tapped hole using a slotted screwdriver or a wrench, bolt, and locknut. To save time during high-volume installations, use a power driver (sold separately).
For those of you that couldn't find any info. Here's is what I posted on another thread.
It states you can install with a screwdriver or a dbl nutted bolt. If the rap cuts the threads why would the insert need to cut the threads? This pic happens to have lock tight on it but they're available without any in addition to inserts for wood.
Also known as E-Z Lok inserts, these come with Loctite® adhesive on their external threads to keep them in place. The adhesive reaches full strength after 72 hours and resists pressure up to 6,000 psi.
Black-phosphate steel inserts have the strength of steel combined with a black-phosphate coating for mild rust resistance and lubricity. 18-8 stainless steel inserts have excellent corrosion resistance and may be mildly magnetic.
Install inserts in a tapped hole using a slotted screwdriver or a wrench, bolt, and locknut. To save time during high-volume installations, use a power driver (sold separately).
For those of you that couldn't find any info. Here's is what I posted on another thread.
It states you can install with a screwdriver or a dbl nutted bolt. If the rap cuts the threads why would the insert need to cut the threads? This pic happens to have lock tight on it but they're available without any in addition to inserts for wood.
The first time I took the front fairing off, all three inserts pulled out. I went to the dealership and bought the threaded inserts as the fix. For some reason at least one of them doesn't seem to want to hold.
This last trip to the dealership the windshield was loose, I think they tried to epoxy an insert in, but I’m not positive. They did say that if the front fairing ever has to come off again then inner fairing will probably have to be replaced.
It seems like that at least 1 of the inserts is still not holding. It just won't get tight enough to hold the windshield tight. I’m at the point that I am afraid to take the front faring off and check to see what they did and possibly how I might could fix it.
Any ideas on how to fix this without having to replace the inner fairing?
Thanks
This last trip to the dealership the windshield was loose, I think they tried to epoxy an insert in, but I’m not positive. They did say that if the front fairing ever has to come off again then inner fairing will probably have to be replaced.
It seems like that at least 1 of the inserts is still not holding. It just won't get tight enough to hold the windshield tight. I’m at the point that I am afraid to take the front faring off and check to see what they did and possibly how I might could fix it.
Any ideas on how to fix this without having to replace the inner fairing?
Thanks
Same here. Worked great!
I bought some JB Weld for plastic. I completely filled the hole then drilled it and installed the Harley helicoil. Going in it felt like this was going to fix the problem but when I stalled the screw, it just pulled out without any effort. I'm not sure how I can repair this without replacing the inner fairing. Does anyone know if they sell 1/4-20 helicoils with a slightly larger outside diameter?
I bought some JB Weld for plastic. I completely filled the hole then drilled it and installed the Harley helicoil. Going in it felt like this was going to fix the problem but when I stalled the screw, it just pulled out without any effort. I'm not sure how I can repair this without replacing the inner fairing. Does anyone know if they sell 1/4-20 helicoils with a slightly larger outside diameter?
Don't know if they're available, but a 1/4" x 20 Timesert would probably work much better than a Heli-coil. I've used them before in bigger, more heavy duty applications, and they work well...I'll let you do the research on what they're all about...
I think I was wrong when I said I put a helicoil in. I actually bought the insert that was designed to fix this issue from Harley. The Timesert looks similar, but they don't say what the OD is. If I can't find a 1/4-20 insert (whatever they are called) with a larger outside diameter, I suspect the only fix it replacing the inner fairing and I really hate to do that, $$$





