Squishy front brake help
Supporter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,272
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From: North East Ohio
Clean the piston's, replace the brake fluid, bleed the chit out of them, then take a rubber band or ty-wrap pull in brake lever & leave all night. Air bubble if there will work it's way to the top of the reservoir.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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Ok so I went out and bought a multi bolt socket set that I thought would have everything I need except the two 12 point bolts I need to take off in the middle of the caliper that I assume are the two main bolts to take apart the caliper itself right? Once I go buy a couple more smaller sockets...I take aprt the caliper and just clean it with brake fluid as best as I can and put it all back together right? No lubricant on anything? Thanks,
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,444
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From: SC
being 8 yrs old you probably need to go thru the system, clean it, and replace some lines. That's what I would do. You really need your brakes to work right. You won't look too cool braking like Fred and Barney.
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So I do need to take the pins all the way out right? That means pulling the caliper all the way off the bike and taking the entire thing apart true? As fas as lubricant I can use a multi-grease? Thanks and sorry I have no clue what I'm talking about, but I'm new to working on bikes.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 658
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Perform the caliper piston cleaning procedure. Hit the auto parts store and getcha one of those vacuum pumps like this one:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=290628
You can change the brake fluid 100% and remove the air in the system at the same time, AND it beats the hell outta the "pump them, open the bleeder, make a mess method". You will have to empty the reservoir a couple of times when doing this. Basically, the vacuum pump is used to get the brake fluid siphoning and gravity will do the rest. Pay attention to the fluid level in the master cylinder as it will empty in a hurry and introduce air into the system. Just add fluid while it drains...Took me about 30 minutes to do all three calipers, and that included a beer!
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=290628
You can change the brake fluid 100% and remove the air in the system at the same time, AND it beats the hell outta the "pump them, open the bleeder, make a mess method". You will have to empty the reservoir a couple of times when doing this. Basically, the vacuum pump is used to get the brake fluid siphoning and gravity will do the rest. Pay attention to the fluid level in the master cylinder as it will empty in a hurry and introduce air into the system. Just add fluid while it drains...Took me about 30 minutes to do all three calipers, and that included a beer!
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
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From: Roswell, GA
The pad pins are the black headed, 1/4" 12 pt. bolts that secure the brake pads in the caliper. They need only to be loosened, not removed, for the cleaning procedure. The procedure in the Lyndall link in my original post mistakenly refers to the pad pins as "one inch" 12 pt. The pins are removed if you are replacing the brake pads.
The two 10mm 12 pt. bolts secure the caliper to the lower fork. Those bolts are removed in order to remove the caliper from the fork. Once the bolts are removed, the caliper is removed from the fork carefully because there isn't much room between the caliper and the edge of your front fender.
Owners who work on their bikes find that having the HD Service Manual for their bikes to be invaluable. If you don't have one, buy one.
Good luck with your project.
Carl
The two 10mm 12 pt. bolts secure the caliper to the lower fork. Those bolts are removed in order to remove the caliper from the fork. Once the bolts are removed, the caliper is removed from the fork carefully because there isn't much room between the caliper and the edge of your front fender.
Owners who work on their bikes find that having the HD Service Manual for their bikes to be invaluable. If you don't have one, buy one.
Good luck with your project.
Carl
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 986
Likes: 3
From: Texas
A while back there was another thread on this procedure that went a step further in removing the pads for the piston/caliber cleaning.
With those pins already loosen,you have very little more to do to remove the pads,
I removed the pads.With the pads removed I fold,1 time,a piece of cardboard and put between the pistons and then pumped the brake lever and tywraped the lever to keep pressure on the pistons.
I then used brake cleaner and my GF's toothbrush to spit shine it.
There is a special grease/lube used on the pins.Ordinary grease would most likely melt,bad .
The anti-squeek stuff for the back of the pads and pin grease are available at AutoZone,et..
Don't forget a torque wrench and blue loctite.
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/service_tech.htm
With those pins already loosen,you have very little more to do to remove the pads,
I removed the pads.With the pads removed I fold,1 time,a piece of cardboard and put between the pistons and then pumped the brake lever and tywraped the lever to keep pressure on the pistons.
I then used brake cleaner and my GF's toothbrush to spit shine it.
There is a special grease/lube used on the pins.Ordinary grease would most likely melt,bad .
The anti-squeek stuff for the back of the pads and pin grease are available at AutoZone,et..
Don't forget a torque wrench and blue loctite.
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/service_tech.htm
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Edmond Oklahoma
If you have not done any of this before, I would suggest just do the piston cleaning as instructed on the Lyndall site first to see if you solved the problem.
While the other stuff is not overly complicated, you can run into the problems by trying to do several things you have not done before and creating another problem and not knowing what it was.
Just clean the pistons first. Don't worry about the greasing the pins or using the anti squeek grease. Use the whole can of brake cleaner, its cheap, put it all back together and see if that fixes your problem.
When cleaning the pistions, be sure and cover the fender with a towel and be very careful taking the caliper off because it is very tight with the finder. Use a bungee cord tie the caliper to the engine guard if you have to leave it so that it doesn't swing into your fender.
I am pretty sure you will be happy with the results. But if not, come back for the next step.
Beary
While the other stuff is not overly complicated, you can run into the problems by trying to do several things you have not done before and creating another problem and not knowing what it was.
Just clean the pistons first. Don't worry about the greasing the pins or using the anti squeek grease. Use the whole can of brake cleaner, its cheap, put it all back together and see if that fixes your problem.
When cleaning the pistions, be sure and cover the fender with a towel and be very careful taking the caliper off because it is very tight with the finder. Use a bungee cord tie the caliper to the engine guard if you have to leave it so that it doesn't swing into your fender.
I am pretty sure you will be happy with the results. But if not, come back for the next step.
Beary
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Joined: Aug 2009
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Ok, I took the calipers of and they were really dirty so I cleaned both and reinstalled the brakes are great now. But...when I ride the bike I can hear the pads scraping on the rotor because when I pull the brake it stops. So could my rotor be bent or is there something I'm missing because it's loud enough for people riding next to me to notice.