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Will there be a 10-30min waiting while adjusting SE adjustable pushrods, if the lifters are new?
I followed the instructions, adjusted the rods to zero clearance (i.e. no play up & down) and after the 2.5turns I can turn the rods immediately. <I did soak the lifters over night in oil>
Mine were the same way. Sometimes just letting them sit in oil doesn't really prime them up. So to answer your question, that would be a normal thing for a lifter that wasn't fully primed before installation.
Will there be a 10-30min waiting while adjusting SE adjustable pushrods, if the lifters are new?
I followed the instructions, adjusted the rods to zero clearance (i.e. no play up & down) and after the 2.5turns I can turn the rods immediately. <I did soak the lifters over night in oil>
Any help would be appreciated!
I always primed my lifters using a common oil can. Just squirt some oil in the top hole 'til it comes out the side. I've never tried the soaking technique, but as 07RoadHawg said I would be sceptical that this would be sufficient.
Thanks for the replies on the lifter question. I had thought that soaking was worthless as well, however figured it won't hurt. I have another question.
I installed SE adjustable Pushrods when installing my 255 (in retrospect I wish I had just took the tank off and reused the stock PRs).
My question is, I currently have them set to 2.5 turns everywhere I read the ideal number of turns if 3-4 for a 24 TPI adjustable pushrods. My goal is to readjust to 3.5turns to reduce the valve/lifter noise. Now they are already installed at 2.5turns and I have already started the engine (on this past Sunday) When I readjust the pushrods, on this coming Saturday, do I have to prime the lifter after backing the pushrods off? I would only assume that I would however no one ever discusses priming?
The way I think about it is if the total lifter range is .200 and 2.5turns is approx right in the middle at .100 (utilizing a 24tpi PR) then when i back off my pushrods the lifter will already be at .100. Meaning unless I prime the lifter again (pushing the lifter to its highest point, when i take the PR to zero lash and turn it 3.5turns I'll be down at the bottom of the range and essentially at .200 (i.e. the end of the travel for the lifter). Actually, with 3.5 turns I'll be beyond the travel and pushing up the valves. This is theory even slightly correct?
To be honest, I am getting a headache reading all the posts on adjustable PRs I am 50% there in just buying Prefect Fit PRs and saying screw the whole thing....
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by Sadist112; Mar 10, 2010 at 08:56 AM.
I installed SE adjustable Pushrods when installing my 255 (in retrospect I wish I had just took the tank off and reused the stock PRs).
Tank removal isn't necessary, at least on an '07. Just block it up 1-2" and that's enough. The only hassle of reusing the stock pushrods is removing and re-installing a few of the rocker-cover and rocker-plate bolts, which are hard to access. I would say it increased the time required maybe two hours in total.
Tank removal isn't necessary, at least on an '07. Just block it up 1-2" and that's enough. The only hassle of reusing the stock pushrods is removing and re-installing a few of the rocker-cover and rocker-plate bolts, which are hard to access. I would say it increased the time required maybe two hours in total.
Yeah F me, I have already spent more than two hours reading about how to correctly adjust pushrods. Should have stuck with the stock and saved the $110 bucks. Live and learn.
My question is, I currently have them set to 2.5 turns everywhere I read the ideal number of turns if 3-4 for a 24 TPI adjustable pushrods. My goal is to readjust to 3.5turns to reduce the valve/lifter noise. Now they are already installed at 2.5turns and I have already started the engine (on this past Sunday) When I readjust the pushrods, on this coming Saturday, do I have to preload the lifter after backing the pushrods off? I would only assume that I would however no one ever discusses preload?
The way I think about it is if the total lifter range is .200 and 2.5turns is approx right in the middle at .100 (utilizing a 24tpi PR) then when i back off my pushrods the lifter will already be at .100. Meaning unless I preload the lifter again (pushing the lifter to its highest point, when i take the PR to zero lash and turn it 3.5turns I'll be down at the bottom of the range and essentially at .200 (i.e. the end of the travel for the lifter). Actually, with 3.5 turns I'll be beyond the travel and pushing up the valves. This is theory even slightly correct?
To be honest, I am getting a headache reading all the posts on adjustable PRs I am 50% there in just buying Prefect Fit PRs and saying screw the whole thing....
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
When you remove the pushrods, the lifter plunger returns to it's top position. There is a spring in there that will push it up when the rod is out. No need to remove the lifters. Just readjust as needed.
4 turns on a 24 tpi pushrod seems like a lot. You are right on with the 2.5. If it's still noisy, just go a 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time until you are happy with the noise level. I don't see any reason to start from scratch, just turn them out a little at a time.
4 turns on a 24 tpi pushrod seems like a lot. You are right on with the 2.5. If it's still noisy, just go a 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time until you are happy with the noise level. I don't see any reason to start from scratch, just turn them out a little at a time.
JMO
Zach
Ah sweet thanks man, I just figured I'd have to start from the zero position and go from there but I guess that makes sense as well. I am going to try 3 and probably stop there. I also just ordered a baisley spring to increase oil pressure so we'll see how that works as well.
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