I would follow what the above poster said about the grit. Start at least as low as 120. I know it sounds like over-kill, but I started at 80. That was due to the fact that I used a palm sander. You get more power and sanding from a wheel, so I don't think most have to start that low. If you don't start with 120, you will get up to about 600 or 800 and start to see some scratches that you did not get out and these grits will not take them out - and you will have to start over anyway. I just did two bike's rotors and went with new bolts just because I wanted chrome.

If I reuse rotor bolts, I inspect my bolts and locktite them, medium grade.

I do reuse my rotor bolts a few times. But due to the weakness potential of tightening them after several uses, I buy new if I have taken them out more than 3 times. Choice here, but I understand why dealers want to put new ones in. Then it is not their fault if something snaps. Just failure.

 

I typed a whole bunch of information, but you guys aren't going to listen anyway, so here's wishing you luck...


(Some people should not even own wrenches!)

 

Essentially you are correct..partially. There have been numerous mechanical engineering books written on bolt torque vs bolt load vs load effect and there are too many variables without a specific case study to determine the outcome. Is is correct to say that the strength of a bolt is lessened each time it is significantly torqued which just leaves the question of how much has it been reduced. Some general estimates show this number to be higher than you may imagine....approaching the 50% range.

Granted the service manual will tend to err on the side of safety for the prevention of lawsuits, but I can not understand why anyone would run the risk of bolt failure on one of if not the most critical safety components of your bike for the purpose of saving a few bucks some new bolts would cost.

 

So you will not share what you think is valuable info on wrenching? Is there another chaps thread somewhere? Come on, some of us want to learn. If you are going to knock us, at least share your knowledge. You obviously have something relevant to share.

Which reminds me, for sale: Entire Tool Collection, all items listed. 1 hammer, 1 roll of tape. First reasonable offer.

 

Can't say I blame you CroK.

 

All this talk about bolt safety is great, but I'm not riding on the space shuttle and if I was that worried about being safe I wouldn't be riding on 2 wheels. All this safety stuff can be taken to extreems, do you change your axels every time you change a tire and torque your axle nut? Lighten up people and use loktite. Whatever you do don't forget your seatbelt.

Big

 

with 20% off, all the bolts cost me about 20 bucks. did that. now going to focus on polishing the rotors.

tin

 

Bolts do stretch. Torque accuracy suffers.
No big deal in most applications.
But worth noting in something that can strand you, or take you down.

Your suggestion of loctite will not keep a bolt from breaking.

Good point about the axle bolt, but you have to admit that it is a much larger bolt than the brake rotor bolts.

Odds are way high that the old bolts won't fail for him,...... unless he has my kind of luck! LOL I'd change them, and make sure the new ones were of a hard grade.



.

 

Its not the space shuttle so to hell with your brakes? Who cares what a team of engineers say after years of research..hell, you changed some tires before!

 

Actually. Chrome plating process reduces the strength of bolts also.