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Well, I got to the battery, actually, with relative ease. Put a charger on it....within 30 seconds the charger showed the battery was charged. OK, disconnected charger, turned the ignition key on...the run switch [had the familiar whirrr] then the start switch...nothing...no clicking...nothing. I think this is beyond my pay scale...which ain't too much
Anybody got any thoughts??
And by the way, thanks for the help
Well, I got to the battery, actually, with relative ease. Put a charger on it....within 30 seconds the charger showed the battery was charged. OK, disconnected charger, turned the ignition key on...the run switch [had the familiar whirrr] then the start switch...nothing...no clicking...nothing. I think this is beyond my pay scale...which ain't too much
Anybody got any thoughts??
And by the way, thanks for the help
Have your battery load tested at nearby autozone or someplace similar.
Ok...maybe a dumb question...but does the bike have any interlocks to keep it from starting in gear?
My wife replaced the battery in her old Yamaha. Only after the new battery didn't help did we realize that it had an interlock that prevented it from starting in gear with the kickstand down...even if the clutch was pulled in.
I hate to bring up the obvious, but do you have security on the bike? if yes, then do you have the fob with you? if you do have the fob and it won't start, do you know the override pin?
and is the bike in neutral? clutch pulled in? (not sure if the sporty has the neutral switch like the touring bikes, but it doesn't hurt to check)
The battery tender leads are 16 gauge, not much thicker than what we were forced to use. A battery tender operates at low amperage, cranking a V-Twin starter motor does not.
Also the polarized connectors on the end are not designed for high current capability (voltage drop: (I*I)*R) so might even melt if you tried to pump starting current through it.
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