TBW Failure -- Please excuse my rant
#11
03-31-2010, 07:12 PM
I got out of work today at noon because I'm taking vacation tomorrow to take a trip down to Charleston SC. I was going to take the scoot, while my wife drove the truck. We were going to help the grandparents move and then going take a few days in the sun on the bike.
However, on my way home today I noticed the scoot wasn't acting right. It was sputtering a bit, kind of like my plugs were fouled. I knew this wasn't the case, because I just put new plugs in yesterday. I was riding in the sun, so I didn't immediately notice the engine light was on. I made a turn out of the sunlight, and noticed the engine light and I started to find a turn-off to pull over. Before I could get off the road, the bike went down to zero power and I was lucky enough to coast to the next turn-off and get into a parking lot. The cruise control light was flashing green and the engine light was still on. The motor was still running but I had almost no control of the throttle....maybe 1-2%
I checked the engine codes by using the speedometer method and found 3 codes stored. P1510, P2122, and P2138. I relayed these codes by phone to the tech at a nearby dealer and he confirmed that all were related to the throttle by wire system. I told him I would check a few things out and get back to him if I needed a pick-up.
I had all the tools with me to remove the batwing and twist grip sensor. So that's what I proceeded to do, so I could check out the connections and see if any were loose. I found that the tab that secures the connection between the twist grip sensor (p/n 32305-08) and the Throttle Jumper Harness (p/n 70415-08) was broken off. I happened not to have any electrical tape with me so I decided to secure the two plugs together with safety wire. Put everything back together and got the bike running again. Now the cruise control light is no longer flashing at me, but the engine light is still on steady. However, I did seem to regain full control of the throttle. I called the dealer and told them I was going to attempt to ride it in and that I would call again if I got stuck.
I got back out on the road, staying in the right hand lane in case something went wrong. The bike ran OK, but a bit sluggish. I tried the cruise control to see if it worked...it did not engage. The engine light remained on for the duration of the trip.
I got the the dealer without further incident and let them know I had a trip planned for the next morning. They said they would do what they could. The tech told me that if the tab on the twist grip sensor was in fact broken that they would definitely have to replace that at a minimum. The tech also said that MOCO suggests having a twist grip sensor on hand any time handlebar work is performed due to the delicate nature of this POS plug. He said they are sensitive enough that even taping the plugs together or safety wiring them together usually would only work intermittently. So that made sense as to why the bike seemed sluggish on the way in.
So, while the tech continued to troubleshoot, I went to the parts counter to see if they had the parts in stock. Of course they did not. I asked him to check and see who had a twist grip sensor and a jumper harness...and he says a dealer 40 miles away has the twist grip sensor and another dealer 180 miles away has the jumper harness. So, I go back to the tech and see if he thinks the sensor is all he will need.
I haul *** to the closer dealer to try and pick up the twist grip sensor before they close. About 3/4 of the way there, I call the service manager at the first dealer to see if they needed anything else to fix it. He tells me they need the sensor and the jumper harness. Damn....no way I can go to both places and get the parts in time to get her fixed and get on the road on time tomorrow. I asked him to get the parts on order and I turned around and headed home.
Anyway, it's going to be mid week next week before they can do anything to fix it they tell me. So I am truck bound to South Carolina to help the grandparents move and our riding plans are shot. This sucks.
I understand, things break....what I don't understand is if these sensors are so delicate that they must be on hand anytime handlebars are worked on....how in the heck can they get away with not stocking these parts regularly. Not just my closest dealer either....only one jumper harness in the whole state of NC I am told.....WTF
I think Harley's parts support may be worse than the local Volkswagon dealer I had to deal with that didn't stock brake pads........
WTF....rant over....flame on.
However, on my way home today I noticed the scoot wasn't acting right. It was sputtering a bit, kind of like my plugs were fouled. I knew this wasn't the case, because I just put new plugs in yesterday. I was riding in the sun, so I didn't immediately notice the engine light was on. I made a turn out of the sunlight, and noticed the engine light and I started to find a turn-off to pull over. Before I could get off the road, the bike went down to zero power and I was lucky enough to coast to the next turn-off and get into a parking lot. The cruise control light was flashing green and the engine light was still on. The motor was still running but I had almost no control of the throttle....maybe 1-2%
I checked the engine codes by using the speedometer method and found 3 codes stored. P1510, P2122, and P2138. I relayed these codes by phone to the tech at a nearby dealer and he confirmed that all were related to the throttle by wire system. I told him I would check a few things out and get back to him if I needed a pick-up.
I had all the tools with me to remove the batwing and twist grip sensor. So that's what I proceeded to do, so I could check out the connections and see if any were loose. I found that the tab that secures the connection between the twist grip sensor (p/n 32305-08) and the Throttle Jumper Harness (p/n 70415-08) was broken off. I happened not to have any electrical tape with me so I decided to secure the two plugs together with safety wire. Put everything back together and got the bike running again. Now the cruise control light is no longer flashing at me, but the engine light is still on steady. However, I did seem to regain full control of the throttle. I called the dealer and told them I was going to attempt to ride it in and that I would call again if I got stuck.
I got back out on the road, staying in the right hand lane in case something went wrong. The bike ran OK, but a bit sluggish. I tried the cruise control to see if it worked...it did not engage. The engine light remained on for the duration of the trip.
I got the the dealer without further incident and let them know I had a trip planned for the next morning. They said they would do what they could. The tech told me that if the tab on the twist grip sensor was in fact broken that they would definitely have to replace that at a minimum. The tech also said that MOCO suggests having a twist grip sensor on hand any time handlebar work is performed due to the delicate nature of this POS plug. He said they are sensitive enough that even taping the plugs together or safety wiring them together usually would only work intermittently. So that made sense as to why the bike seemed sluggish on the way in.
So, while the tech continued to troubleshoot, I went to the parts counter to see if they had the parts in stock. Of course they did not. I asked him to check and see who had a twist grip sensor and a jumper harness...and he says a dealer 40 miles away has the twist grip sensor and another dealer 180 miles away has the jumper harness. So, I go back to the tech and see if he thinks the sensor is all he will need.
I haul *** to the closer dealer to try and pick up the twist grip sensor before they close. About 3/4 of the way there, I call the service manager at the first dealer to see if they needed anything else to fix it. He tells me they need the sensor and the jumper harness. Damn....no way I can go to both places and get the parts in time to get her fixed and get on the road on time tomorrow. I asked him to get the parts on order and I turned around and headed home.
Anyway, it's going to be mid week next week before they can do anything to fix it they tell me. So I am truck bound to South Carolina to help the grandparents move and our riding plans are shot. This sucks.
I understand, things break....what I don't understand is if these sensors are so delicate that they must be on hand anytime handlebars are worked on....how in the heck can they get away with not stocking these parts regularly. Not just my closest dealer either....only one jumper harness in the whole state of NC I am told.....WTF
I think Harley's parts support may be worse than the local Volkswagon dealer I had to deal with that didn't stock brake pads........
WTF....rant over....flame on.
#12
03-31-2010, 07:19 PM
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Dawg...this is North Carolina man....nobody's in a hurry for anything around here. I didn't buy the bike from them either which is probably a strike against me there. I do have a decent working relationship with the parts guy. He told me there was only one jumper harness in the whole state....is he able to see the same stuff you can?
#13
03-31-2010, 07:20 PM
#14
03-31-2010, 07:22 PM
I've been down this road many many time had sensor twist grip's and recently the whole wiring harness.
If you pull the connector behind the air cleaner going into the induction module and spray it with some anti corrosion spray this should fix it.
Also what type of bars you have I have 13" apes and soldered the wires and never had a problem til some techie at a dealer decided to replace my twist grip sensor ever since that nothing but problems
Finally got it fixed after being stuck on the hwy and on many side of roads as well
Drag Specialties makes a extension for the TBW try checking that out
If you pull the connector behind the air cleaner going into the induction module and spray it with some anti corrosion spray this should fix it.
Also what type of bars you have I have 13" apes and soldered the wires and never had a problem til some techie at a dealer decided to replace my twist grip sensor ever since that nothing but problems
Finally got it fixed after being stuck on the hwy and on many side of roads as well
Drag Specialties makes a extension for the TBW try checking that out
Last edited by pounder35; 03-31-2010 at 07:29 PM.
#15
03-31-2010, 07:27 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
Dawg...this is North Carolina man....nobody's in a hurry for anything around here. I didn't buy the bike from them either which is probably a strike against me there. I do have a decent working relationship with the parts guy. He told me there was only one jumper harness in the whole state....is he able to see the same stuff you can?
#16
03-31-2010, 07:30 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#17
03-31-2010, 07:32 PM
I agree with you about common parts, I get pissed at the parts manager all the time BUT, a trans bearing IS NOT a common part to need by any streach of the imagination. Its been since the 4 speed days that rebuilding a tranny in the shop was a common occurance.
#18
03-31-2010, 07:50 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#19
03-31-2010, 07:54 PM
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First, would this be covered under warranty??
Second, if an Indy did the handlebar work and the part fouled up, would the warranty cover it?
Just some informative questions because mine felt like it was "skipping" the other daytoo. Might have been the wind gusts though.
Second, if an Indy did the handlebar work and the part fouled up, would the warranty cover it?
Just some informative questions because mine felt like it was "skipping" the other daytoo. Might have been the wind gusts though.
If you start you bike and the engine light comes on and stays on you have an active trouble code. If it goes out after start-up, then comes on again for a few seconds, then goes out again. then you have a historical code. This means at one time you had a problem and the ECM threw a code but it isn't detecting the code currently.
If you find either an active or historical code you can use the speedometer and odometer rest button to retrieve the codes.
1) With the ignition switch and run switch off hit the odometer reset button. The odometer will come on. Hit odometer button until total mileage shows.
2) With total mileage showing on the odometer hold the reset switch in and turn the ignition switch on and the ECM goes into diagnostic mode. Then release the reset switch. The tach and speedo will sweep the full range of the gauges and back down, and all idiot lights will illuminate and go back out. "DIAG" will now show in the odometer.
3) Push Run Switch to "Run" position.
4) Pushing the reset switch while "DIAG" is up will change the display to read "P S Sp t b" only with no spaces between the letters.
P= ECM codes
S= TSM/TSSM/HFSM codes
Sp= speedometer codes
t= tachometer codes
b= ABS brake codes
Short pushes of the odometer reset switch will move to the next selection. Hold the odometer button to make a selection or clear a code.
6) Use the rest switch to select P, S, Sp, t, or b (short push) and select with a long push. If codes are present in that area the first one will come up. Short pushes of the reset switch will cycle through all the codes in that area. A long push will clear the codes...so don't do that unless you mean to.
7) Part numbers of the different modules will display after any stored codes. This is not an indicator of a failed part...only the P/N of the diagnostic module.
Try out the above procedure and see if you have any stored codes. If none are present then I doubt your problem is TBW related....but I would continue to watch for the engine light and recheck codes then. Might save you from being stuck in a parking lot removing your fairing and looking like an idiot like I was today.
Last edited by 09StreetGlider; 03-31-2010 at 08:24 PM.
#20
03-31-2010, 07:59 PM
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The only reason my bike remains there right now is it is going to be covered under warranty....and I was nervous to drive it 40 miles to the next dealer.