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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 06:42 AM
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While riding I had my check engin light came on after I got home I checked things out and found that I had plug wire not seated. The light has not come back on while riding but stays on after start up for about 10 sec. and goes back out. Is this telling me that a fault has been found ? If so is there anyway to reset it without going to the dealer?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 07:25 AM
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I think the light stays on a couple seconds when engine is started. Doesn't mean anything is wrong. I think it may stays on till the oil pressure is up.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 07:28 AM
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I think after a certain numbers of times of the igntion switch cycling on/off the codes will clear themselfs out. That info is somewhere on the forum, I just can't find it right now.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 07:47 AM
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I believe once a code has been thrown out, the light stays on as a reminder. If I remember correctly, after 50 cycles, it should cease (unless another code happens to be thrown out)...
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 07:51 AM
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Thank you... A bud said to try and disconnect the Bat for a few minutes and this would clear a code or a ploblem that was no longer there. The oil pressuer sounds plausible but it just started to do this after the loose plug wire
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 08:08 AM
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Copied this from a post by DAWG....his was better than my last explanation.

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 08:40 AM
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Hey.......... Thank you Brother.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CroK
I believe once a code has been thrown out, the light stays on as a reminder. If I remember correctly, after 50 cycles, it should cease (unless another code happens to be thrown out)...
This is also what I understand. I KNOW that disconnecting the battery won't reset the PCM on these. That is a misnomer,,,,
Either the dealer can hook it to their computer and clear the code, or after 50 cycles, (Starts and run for so long, not sure how long) it clears.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 04:43 PM
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The light will stay on only if the ECM continues to detect the fault (active code). If the light comes on when you start-up, goes out after a few seconds, then comes on again for a few seconds before it goes out again then you have a historical code. A historical code means at one time the ECM detected a fault but the condition is no longer being detected.

The procedure I posted below will allow you to retrieve and clear all codes from the ECM without any additional tools. Just write down the codes and look them up in the electrical diagnostics manual. This procedure is listed in the electrical diagnostics manual. They call it a "WOW" test.

If your ECM has a active code, and you clear it from the system using the process below, it will immediately re-trigger the light on your next start or when the ignition is turned on depending on the code.

Disconnecting the battery has no impact what so ever, but the 50 ignition cycles thing will work for historical codes. I don't know about you but I'm not leaving a code in the ECM without checking to see what it is....JMHO
 
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