Last Saturday at the end of the day, I started to head back home. When, I got on the bike (09 Road Glide) to ride and as I was leaving the park lot. I could only go about 20 MPH. I thought that it was me. But, I rode a couple of streets over by pulling on the throttle all the way and nothing, no increase on the speed. I knew that I was having a problem with the bike. So, I pulled over to turn it Off / On and the it was back to normal. Has anyone ever had this problem before? I spoke with a friend of mine about it and he said that it was the fuel injection system. I just want to be sure that it's not something major that I am having a problem with. Any inputs????

 

I've heard that will happen if you over fill your fuel tank. Other than that I don't know.

 

I do remember that I did filled it to the top. But, this time the gas tank was half way down when this happened. Thanks, I'll make sure not to fill it to the top again.

 

I had that happen to me last week. It was a bad throttle position sensor in the right hand grip. Did your check engine light come on? It should have thrown a few codes.

 

I had this happen to me on my 09 UC but it did not self correct. It was a TPS wire shorting out on a head fin.

The stealer that installed my stage 1 air cleaner routed a wire incorrectly. (Then tried to blame the factory build!)

I can't post the thrown codes now as they are on my work PC and it's Saturday am here.

If you want them send a PM and I'll let you know the code and definition.

 

My codes were:

P1510: Throttle Actuator Control Limited Performance Mode
P2122: TGS 1 Low/Open (TGS=twist grip sensor)
P2138: TGS Correlation Error

The way I understand the failure I experienced is that the TBW system monitors inputs from 2 sources in the twist grip sensor. If the 2 do not correlate with each other the system shuts down throttle response to somewhere around 2%. I guess to keep us from having problems like Toyota has.

I'm sure there are other reasons your bike might enter this shutdown mode though, so I would definitely check for codes.

 

By the way, if it is the twist grip sensor, I had exactly the same as you did happen to me. I pulled over, restarted, and all was ok. Couple days later had the sensor totally go out on me.

There is a cheap plastic connector halfway down the right handlebar that is finicky if it's messed with. You can either replace the TGS sensor, and possibly the jumper harness it connects to....or you can cut the crappy connectors off and use butt connectors or solder.

I opted to replace the sensor and wiring harness, as I wasn't sure it was just the connection between the two causing the problem. If the sensor is undamaged it should work though.

 

No not at all, it's just strange to me.

 

Ok, I hear you. I'll keep an eye on it, I have to head down to Florida for the next two weeks and I don't this to be a problem for me. Thank you so much....

 

You may not have an active code, but you could have a historic one since everything is working OK now.

Normally when you turn on the ignition your engine light should illuminate and then go out out after a few seconds. If it comes on again and stays on...you have an active code (still detecting a fault). If it comes on again and then goes out again after a few seconds you have a historical code (detected a fault some time, but not now).

If either are the case you can pull the codes like this:

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSptb" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t to b and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
Sp = speedometer
t = tachometer
b = ABS brakes (if equipped)

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.